Search results

Or… get a Ford tech to measure your operating angles and report to Ford Cust service. That was going to be my next move. A quantifiable proof that it’s out of spec so they’ll have to do something.

Measure your operating angles. Follow the rules of no operating angle greater than 3, and adjacent operating angles less than 1 degree apart. I’m theory, that SHOULD provide the solution. I got mine close, see my previous post about needing to adjust the angle of the trans itself. Or go...

I was planning on just living with it, but it just pissed me off every time I drove it. Plus the transmission was a little too clunky around town. Everything else about the truck was great. I did trade for the Ram. Carvana offered 37,175 with my 5k miles on the Ranger. I paid 38,000 out the...

Here’s what I did. I’d be willing to give detailed instructions to anyone who wants to do the same.

Update: Found a solution that fixed everything! Smooth everywhere, angles in spec, and even got rid of those occasional clunky shifts. I’ll post a picture of what I did in a minute.

I just re-measured angles and got operating angles of 4.8, 2.8, and 0.9. If those are accurate, shimming the front motor mounts to tilt the trans back just one degree might effect both the front and middle angles enough to get everything within 1 degree. So the final measurements would be ~2.9...

Yeah, seems like a good job for an engineer… oh wait…

Update: Measured all my operating angles. From front to rear- Transmission flange angles down at -3.3. Front drive shaft angles down at -9.2. Rear drive shaft angles down at -6.5. Rear pinion flange angles down at -5.0. This provides 3 operating angles where these parts join. -5.9...

I use these. Had them for 3 years, use them after leaving the gym and throw them in the washer. Holding up well.

You might have figured this out by now, but you can unscrew the plug from the engine bay if you have a swivel adapter and enough extension length. Then it’s still to hot to get back under to use the dipstick though... I’m looking into the B&M aftermarket dipsticks.

I know, waking up an old thread... Am I the only one wondering where the proper place to read the fluid level is on this new B&M dipstick? The factory dipstick is supposed to show it between the 4 and 5 when warmed up and running in park. Where is the corresponding mark on this new dipstick...

I’ve had the crazy idea for a while for manufacturers to build cars with under-seat trash compactors. Motorized drawer slides out, trash in, drawer closes and compacts, deposits into easily removable bin for occasional emptying. edit: dammit https://patents.google.com/patent/US6676362B1/en

Best thing about high sided rubber floor mats. Throw trash in the passenger floorboard, pick it all up when I get home. :like:

My door sticker calls for 30 psi. Never had them any higher.

I’m a sucker for the small wheels on huge tires look for a true off-roader. I’d say it’s functional as well as the extra sidewall would allow you to air down more for max grippies. IMO I don’t think 1 inch from 17-18 would make much of a difference.

Has anyone put bigger tires on the factory chrome Lariat 18” wheels? Post pictures. For reference:

The longer bolts I used were M10 1.5x60. Grade 10.9. You’ll need those and washers for them. -Cameron

I used all the shims he gave me on my center bearing. They look just like the angled shims from the TSB, but with two holes for the bolts. Black, same exact LxW, I think. I’ll see if I can read the part number on them or get one from the tech. -Cameron

From Bell Buckle here

The master tech at my local dealership had a huge stack of Ford Transit center bearing shims from a recall for that vehicle. He gave me some for free. Turns out the bolt hole spacing is the exact same for our Ranger’s center bearing, but they did require taking a grinder to cut off the corners...