8492 - 2019 Ranger - Trailer Brake Controller Availability

[KVOFTN]

Good catch and repair. Sorry it happened to start with.

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[TechnicallyReal]

Alright, so I read all 29 pages here.. lol

Hey David, I would not recommend the wireless brake controller as I nearly had disastrous results when I tried it. I tried the Echo wireless brake controller by Curt. He Curt techs tried very hard to help me out and were patient but in the end admitted the Echo would not work for me. If your new trailer does not use LED lights you may have better luck than I did but I suspect that even if your trailer has incandescent lights you may still have problems. Anyway, I ordered and received the Ford (Redarc?) brake controller and have an appointment tomorrow. The dealer has warned (threatened?) that the install could take 4and half hours - at $150 an hour - but without a brake controller the truck is worthless to me. So, I’m planning on having a conversation with their management tomorrow. As was said in an earlier post, Ford boasts the Ranger has the best towing capability in its class but what they sold me is a vehicle that can only tow 1500 lbs legally.

I have a 2019 Lariat and a Curt Echo and it seems to just work for me. Maybe it's got newer firmware or a newer hardware revision. Just bought it in early August.

I decided to try the Curt Echo bluetooth for my brake controller. Another had said it didn't work for them but my research in multiple forums has lead me to the conclusion it is worth a try due to being proportional and no wiring necessary.
Even though it does not interface with the EBS I never had EBS before and in 46 yrs of driving I have never run a pedestrian down or rear ended another vehicle so the chance of it kicking in before me deciding to brake is pretty low vs the amount of time spent doing normal trailering stops and the increased costs of the Ford option.
E trailer is shipping on Monday and I will post my experience after I have programmed it, played with it and see how it worked for me.
Stay safe fellow Ranger fans!

I wouldn't be surprised if the Curt Echo does actually activate with AEB and ACC as it gets its brake signal from the 7-way and not from the brake pedal. Cannot confirm this, though. I will try ACC next time and see if the app shows the trailer braking when the ACC brakes.

I also found out from Curt that once you have it set up it does not need to have the app open or be connected except for manual control of the trailer brakes in a sway situation which is preferred by me.
I'm connecting to a dedicated Galaxy Note 5 (last smart phone) so no calls messages or anything else interferes with the controller also leaving my Galaxy S10+ connected to the truck via Android Auto.
I'm hoping this set up does the trick even with the stupid Ford to trailer connection sequence to get the power on.
So far it appears that if you plug the trailer in to the echo first then do the ford routine and plug the echo/trailer combo in last it all works normally.
I'm going to try it, hope for the best and see what happens.
Wish me luck?

It's been my experience that the Echo needs to be plugged into the truck before the trailer is plugged into the Echo, because the Echo levels/calibrates itself (yellow LED) when it sees that the the trailer has been plugged in. If your trailer has a battery like mine (Jayco 174BH travel trailer) then the Echo will end up calibrating while in your hand and then get all messed up. Learned that by experience and had to pull over and unplug/replug to get it properly calibrated.

Hey Beachranger, Please let us know how you make out with the Echo brake controller. It was a total failure for me but I kind of suspect that the controller they sent was part of the problem. They sent me two different controllers because the first one failed to work properly - although it did work for a short while - and was later found to be the wrong part number for the Ranger. The second one gave me all kinds of problems and eventually burned up (literally)and I think they just didn’t want to try a third controller for me. Anyway, if it will work for you it’s comparitively cheap and real easy to hook up, and you don’t have to cut up the inside of your truck for installation. Good luck, and keep us posted.

Might have been old revision or old firmware. Also noticed that the Echo manual says to turn on Tow/Haul mode before plugging it in. I don't think I've done that, though. I tend to forget about Tow mode until I start driving.

Alright all, this one will be a lengthy one.

After spending hours reading through several forums, trying to figure out why, and how, Ford is using their "OEM" trailer brake controller, I think I have some answers that may help some people. Now, I may also be wrong, I simply came to a conclusion after many points were made regarding the system.

As we all know, the OEM one is simply a Redarc TBC with a Lumen "ECU". Well, let's look at the source. Lumen is an Australian company that specializes in vehicle electronic modules. So why does Ford need them to make a module, and what does it do? Well, based on my reading, it simply reads the signal and then recreates it for the TBC. This 3rd brake light can be either halogen or LED. Now, and LED does not operate using a constant signal, but rather, a pulsing signal. Therefore, if the TBC took the raw LED signal, it would use a pulsing signal for the trailer brakes, giving you a less than ideal braking application.

As has been pointed out, the "tow package" wiring that supplies the brake signal is only active when the pedal is pressed, and not during AEB or ACC brake application unless the brake pedal is pressed as well. The 3rd brake light is activated during all 3 situations. To put it simply, the Lumen ECU is simply taking the signal going to the 3rd brake light, and projecting it to the TBC, regardless of bulb and signal type (pulsing or constant).

All that work for a separately sourced signal, and an extra $140.

Now, my deduction should mean that all one would need to make a "stock" Redarc, is a way to get that signal. A module, perhaps, that changes a pulsed signal to a constant, but also maintains a constant output signal if the input is constant. Basically something that will work in both instances (making it only a single kit needed regardless of trim). I personally don't know of such a device, but maybe someone more familiar with electronics could provide input. It could be something as simple as a trip to one of the few existing Radio Shacks.


Now, maybe I'm completely wrong. Maybe it's not a pulsed signal going to the input of the ECU. Maybe my post was a complete waste of time. If that's the case, please let me know, as I am interested. This is simply my own conclusion.

It was stated, from a person on here who contacted Lumen, that the diagnosis and designing of the "OEM" setup was a pain in the ass to find. My guess is that Lumen had to take a Ranger of each trim level, and run it through a series of tests, activating the circuit for AE

Perhaps the CHMSL is not a dumb light but instead activates based on CANBUS signal, and the Lumen ECU module listens for that signal on CANBUS as well. I've seen others allude to this but no one has proven it.

Grumpy Old Ranger Guy, do you know if the Forward Collision Warning Assist and Automated Emergency Braking systems work using the Echo?

I just walked out of the dealer on Saturday, and I'm kind of pissed that I didn't look into this further before purchasing the Ranger. Love the truck, but one of my prime reasons for buying it was towing a travel trailer. I'm not thrilled to drop another $600 or so ($430 part price) just to do that.

The active safety features only work with the ford branded controller. It’s bullshit, but it is what it is...

Mentioned above already but the Curt Echo has a unique advantage in this situation and may work with AEB and ACC since it gets brake activation signal from the 7-way and not from the brake pedal like in-dash units. If AEB and ACC cause the trailer brake light to activate (I think someone said they do), then the Curt would be able to activate brakes during those events as well. I will try ACC next time and see if the app shows the trailer braking when the ACC brakes.

Your brake controller probably doesn't work either. I have the Redarc controller but not the CHMSL tie in. Needed a brake controller and couldn't wait for Ford to get their act together. My understanding is you need to use both connectors on the ends of the wye. Grey or black depending on your truck. You unplug the light from the existing wire and plug one side of the wye into the light and the otherside of the wye into the existing wire that was plugged into the light. You need to complete the circuit for every thing to work. You must have the existing wire loose in there.

Wish I could just buy the added module, so I could have the Automatic Emergency Braking function on the trailer. Not going to pay for a whole new controller setup just for that, I don't have Adaptive Cruise Control, shouldn't use that towing anyway.

RedArc appears to have their own kit to add AEB and ACC compatibility. It appears to involve running a wire to the 7-way, though (which would kinda confirm Curt Echo AEB/ACC compatibility, oddly enough).

See here: https://www.redarc.com.au/tow-pro-wiring-kits

 

[Return Ranger]

Alright, so I read all 29 pages here.. lol



I have a 2019 Lariat and a Curt Echo and it seems to just work for me. Maybe it's got newer firmware or a newer hardware revision. Just bought it in early August.



I wouldn't be surprised if the Curt Echo does actually activate with AEB and ACC as it gets its brake signal from the 7-way and not from the brake pedal. Cannot confirm this, though. I will try ACC next time and see if the app shows the trailer braking when the ACC brakes.



It's been my experience that the Echo needs to be plugged into the truck before the trailer is plugged into the Echo, because the Echo levels/calibrates itself (yellow LED) when it sees that the the trailer has been plugged in. If your trailer has a battery like mine (Jayco 174BH travel trailer) then the Echo will end up calibrating while in your hand and then get all messed up. Learned that by experience and had to pull over and unplug/replug to get it properly calibrated.



Might have been old revision or old firmware. Also noticed that the Echo manual says to turn on Tow/Haul mode before plugging it in. I don't think I've done that, though. I tend to forget about Tow mode until I start driving.



Perhaps the CHMSL is not a dumb light but instead activates based on CANBUS signal, and the Lumen ECU module listens for that signal on CANBUS as well. I've seen others allude to this but no one has proven it.




Mentioned above already but the Curt Echo has a unique advantage in this situation and may work with AEB and ACC since it gets brake activation signal from the 7-way and not from the brake pedal like in-dash units. If AEB and ACC cause the trailer brake light to activate (I think someone said they do), then the Curt would be able to activate brakes during those events as well. I will try ACC next time and see if the app shows the trailer braking when the ACC brakes.



RedArc appears to have their own kit to add AEB and ACC compatibility. It appears to involve running a wire to the 7-way, though (which would kinda confirm Curt Echo AEB/ACC compatibility, oddly enough).

See here: https://www.redarc.com.au/tow-pro-wiring-kits

Thanks for the information. Super helpful. Please update when you test the AEB. I don't think the ACC should be used with towing, but I've heard the blinds spot detection doesn't work for some.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

Thanks for the information. Super helpful. Please update when you test the AEB. I don't think the ACC should be used with towing, but I've heard the blinds spot detection doesn't work for some.

I don't have a good way to test AEB but I am confident that testing ACC will confirm AEB compatibility as well since they both function by similar signal and without brake pedal input from what I've read.

 

[t4thfavor]

100% guaranteed that the aeb does not work with the curt. Ford is notoriously cheap, if they could source the brake signal from the 7-way, then they would have done it without tearing out half the truck interior. And if they could have done it without adding the pwm “ECU”, they for sure would have.

the purple wire under the dash would have come from the 7-way and bam, problem solved.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

100% guaranteed that the aeb does not work with the curt. Ford is notoriously cheap, if they could source the brake signal from the 7-way, then they would have done it without tearing out half the truck interior. And if they could have done it without adding the pwm “ECU”, they for sure would have.

the purple wire under the dash would have come from the 7-way and bam, problem solved.

Tested adaptive cruise control today and when the vehicle in front of me slowed to a stop, the Ranger brakes came on automatically and so did the trailer brakes via the Echo. Worked beautifully. Tested this a few times. Auto emergency braking should work exactly the same I think.

RedArc themselves have a kit to add support for AEB and ACC to the Tow Pro Elite - and all it does is tap into the brake light line at the 7-way: https://www.redarc.com.au/tow-pro-wiring-kits
It looks significantly more painful to install than the Ford solution.

 

[Return Ranger]

Tested adaptive cruise control today and when the vehicle in front of me slowed to a stop, the Ranger brakes came on automatically and so did the trailer brakes via the Echo. Worked beautifully. Tested this a few times. Auto emergency braking should work exactly the same I think.

RedArc themselves have a kit to add support for AEB and ACC to the Tow Pro Elite - and all it does is tap into the brake light line at the 7-way: https://www.redarc.com.au/tow-pro-wiring-kits
It looks significantly more painful to install than the Ford solution.

Thanks Technically Real. Couple of questions:

1. Does your Blind Spot Indicator (where you adjust based on length of trailer) work when towing?
2. Do you use the towing button and menu features?

 

[TechnicallyReal]

Thanks Technically Real. Couple of questions:

1. Does your Blind Spot Indicator (where you adjust based on length of trailer) work when towing?
2. Do you use the towing button and menu features?

Yes and yes, both work without any issues. More detail about them here: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/wireless-brake-controller.3196/post-166605

 

[Big Blue]

Tested adaptive cruise control today and when the vehicle in front of me slowed to a stop, the Ranger brakes came on automatically and so did the trailer brakes via the Echo. Worked beautifully. Tested this a few times. Auto emergency braking should work exactly the same I think.

For this to work The Curt is doing some electrical magic with the signal that is coming from the 7 pin connector. On US vehicles the turn signals and the brake lights use the same wires in the 7 pin connector. So, they must be looking for both left and right wires and only applying brakes if both are on Constantly at the same time. Otherwise your turn signals would pulse the trailer brakes. kind of makes me wonder how they handle braking with a turn signal on. This also explains why they need a switch in their app to turn off the pulsing of the brakes if you turn on your 4-way flashers. By the way turning this off disables the trailer brakes entirely.

As far as the Redarc harness is concerned This only works for non-US vehicles because they have separate brake and turn signal wires in their connectors. They also say a diode is required in the circuit if the vehicle uses CANBus modules in the system to prevent back feeding power into the circuit and damaging the module.

With all this said the CHMSL was the closest point where they could get a connection to a clean clean brake only signal where there was a connector. Otherwise they would need to splice into a wiring harness. Unfortunately that connector also contains the wires for the bed lights. Not even going to go into the difference in signal type between the LED and Halogen CHMSLs, if there even is one. Based on all this, my assumption is the added module with the FORD controller is a pass through for the bed light and CHMSL wiring and a diode to prevent the power feedback issue. Possibly a signal conditioner if required.

Now that I have written this I'm not sure what all this means to anyone. I personally prefer a wired in brake controller with a hardwired override button and bias control. I also only have one tow vehicle so being able to use the controller with multiple vehicles is not a need. I see more downsides to the Curt controller, such as needing to plug it in a specific sequence and the four-way flasher thing. It does show that Ford really dropped the ball on this one. First in not having a system at roll-out to allow the truck to be used at its full rated towing capacity. and at the least not having the connections available in the harness. Definitely points to the whole thing being an after thought. Shame! Shame!

Thank you for letting me ramble on an subject that has been an issue on this forum probably since it was started. The towing capacity was one of the main reasons I bought my Ranger, which I love by the way, It is also why I have a Redarc controller without the CHMSL tie in. (Vent Alert!) I wish Ford, or someone, would make a retro-fit kit available to upgrade those of us who could not wait for Ford to get off their A$$es to be able to tow their trailers.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

For this to work The Curt is doing some electrical magic with the signal that is coming from the 7 pin connector. On US vehicles the turn signals and the brake lights use the same wires in the 7 pin connector. So, they must be looking for both left and right wires and only applying brakes if both are on Constantly at the same time. Otherwise your turn signals would pulse the trailer brakes. kind of makes me wonder how they handle braking with a turn signal on.

That's a very interesting point. I'm a software developer and after looking at the pinout it makes sense to me that they're using software to determine when the brakes are on vs just signals.

If I had to guess how the software works, it would be something like this...
- If both tail lights activate at the same time then enable trailer braking.
- Ignore one light going out (signaling while braking).
- If both tail lights deactivate at the same time then disable trailer braking.
- Ignore one light coming on (signaling while not braking).
And then of course there'd be an exception for hazard lights, which we already know they handle differently in the app. Interesting stuff.

Personally I plan to install the OEM brake controller at some point. I would really like to have a physical dial on the dash and I'd also like to not worry about how level my truck is when I hook up my trailer (my driveway is steep). I don't suggest anyone choose the Echo over the OEM solution.. but it does work (and works very well). In my case I just happened to already have an Echo from my previous vehicle and wanted to report that it works well for me despite the other experiences here.

 

[Big Blue]

That's a very interesting point. I'm a software developer and after looking at the pinout it makes sense to me that they're using software to determine when the brakes are on vs just signals.

If I had to guess how the software works, it would be something like this...
- If both tail lights activate at the same time then enable trailer braking.
- Ignore one light going out (signaling while braking).
- If both tail lights deactivate at the same time then disable trailer braking.
- Ignore one light coming on (signaling while not braking).
And then of course there'd be an exception for hazard lights, which we already know they handle differently in the app. Interesting stuff.

Being a retired mechanical designer with some knowledge of latter logic and PLC programming, I have a interest in how things work and why they were designed the way they were. Thank you for validating some of my assumptions, and that is what they are my assumptions. I make no recommendations for or against any of the controllers that people choose to use. I just think people need to have all the information available to make an informed decision. especially with something as important as the brakes on a 7000lb trailer. Again Ford really dropped the ball on this one.

My wife will tell you I am the type that researches any major purchase to death before making it.
My Ranger was probably my most impulsive purchase I've made in many years, but I love it. Now if I could just stop spending money on modding it.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

100% agree. My Ranger purchase was also somewhat impulsive. I usually check out all my options and compare things to death. But in this case I was really only interested in the Ranger and nothing else was going to get my attention. I only had my previous vehicle for 6 months and I was only "looking into" getting a Ranger for the spring. A week later and it was in the driveway

 

[ZacB]

The three dealers in my local area didn't have a clue. The one I bought it from says they did one but sent it to another local company and it cost nearly $800 for parts and labor. There's one dealer that shows up for me on the Ford accessories website in a nearby city, and it lists the controller for $339 with an install price of $94. What are the chances I can actually pay this online and have them install it for that?

edit: My dealer will sell it to me for $300 and I'm considering installing it myself. The online price has to be too good to be true, I just didn't know if paying that price online would force their hand.

 

[Return Ranger]

The three dealers in my local area didn't have a clue. The one I bought it from says they did one but sent it to another local company and it cost nearly $800 for parts and labor. There's one dealer that shows up for me on the Ford accessories website in a nearby city, and it lists the controller for $339 with an install price of $94. What are the chances I can actually pay this online and have them install it for that?

edit: My dealer will sell it to me for $300 and I'm considering installing it myself. The online price has to be too good to be true, I just didn't know if paying that price online would force their hand.

I say force their hand. If enough dealers make noise to Ford will they actually do something about it? I don't have the option to pre-pay for install, as Ford Canada is not offering that, so I'm stuck with a $430 part plus over $300 install (quoted by the only local dealer that seems to know this exists). That's adding more than a monthly payment, so I bought a Curt Echo instead.

 

[Montana Ranger]

There's one dealer that shows up for me on the Ford accessories website in a nearby city, and it lists the controller for $339 with an install price of $94. What are the chances I can actually pay this online and have them install it for that?

I'd take that deal, and hold them to the $94 install price. They clearly don't know what they're in for yet.

My dealer charged me the $339 for the controller but comped the install to keep me happy after selling me a truck with "Best in Class Towing" which in its delivered state was unable to tow anything more than my Subaru could.

IMHO, Ford should be comping the install for everyone who needs the Ford controller installed for this monumental screw up.

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