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In fairness, I think it would have towed fine with stock shocks. I changed out the FX4 shocks due to the bounciness of everyday driving. The load on the rear would have only helped that I'm sure.

As others have said, try some Bilstein or Eibach rear shocks. It's not an expensive investment, and you can do the work yourself, if you are mildly handy. I didn't tow prior to swapping mine out, but it drastically changed the rear bounce over speed bumps and the like.

I have noticed a change in the wobbling and bouncing (even with the lean on harder corners) with my rear shock replacement. Thinking of doing the front coilover replacement, but it's seeming to be more cosmetic than anything, because I am not sure I'll get much other personal benefits since I...

Looks good. I've been thinking about doing this. I replaced the rear shocks, but haven't done the front yet. What difference have you noticed in the ride?

I just upgraded the rear shocks to Bilsteins, so I have the FX ones for sale. Great condition, just wanted a different ride profile. Would like $120 for the pair. Located in Vancouver. Willing to ship, but will pass on the charges.

You would be surprised how much noise it made. Maybe because of the metal on metal, but it sounded like was in the cab. My daughter thought so, too.

I've just learned to block out THAT rattle ??

That's what I was expecting!

UPDATE! Went for a drive today to check out a trailer, and noticed that I was not hearing the rattling like I did last night. When I got back I ran my hand along the bottom of the frame rail and could hear it and slightly feel it as I came to this slot. When I got up under there it was...

I installed mine in the driver side 12V. The OEM kit came with the rectangular mount, but I found the round one online for $10 or so. Getting the 12V out was tricky.

Actually, some stainless is not magnetic. The other 3 are not - I tried. They may have slight magnetism, but not enough to pick up or slide.

Yes. Problem is that my local hardware stores are terrible for fasteners. Couldn't find anything close. It gets worse. The screws are not magnetic. I fished around and knocked it out, but it fell into a strange spot. As I tried to pull it out, I believe it fell into one if the small holes of...

In the course of my installation of the trailer brake controller, I dropped one of the screws from the cargo light (3rd brake light) between the bed and cab. I can't locate it/retrieve it. Does anyone know the size off hand?

Ok, not an easy job, but done. Ordered a tester, which will arrive later today. I hope it works.

Today's the day to install my OEM Trailer Brake Controller. Wish me luck.

I found somewhere on the forum that manufacturer's specs called for 52 ft-lb. Seemed about right to me. BTW, if you have a long torque wrench, the upper boots are a bit tricky. I hand tightened with a shorter wrench and then finished with the torque wrench.

I just installed these today. Whole process took about 1 hour 15, but it's easy active for more like 30-45. I don't have a garage or driveway, so I had to carry everything out to the street, and I let my kids help with having the truck a bit. Not too bad on install. A bit tricky on the passenger...

Just received mine and unboxed them this morning. The website for Essex is not the best, but a week after I had not seen any change in my order status, I contacted them, and they arrived the next business day. I probably would go to their storefront the next time, but all in all, it was fine.

I'm looking at this too. I don't need the extra clearance, so I'm thinking about just getting rear shocks to start and then possibly doing a 2" front lift later.

I think 65s are the best bet, just wanted to see where you had landed. I was just thinking in the long run, I might get a taller rack, but use the rails on the cab roof. 65s seem big for that, but prob just right for the bed.