Rick, I remember an experience with a front wheel drive car...had some drive up ramps and it would try to spin them underneath the tires! Ended up jacking it up and putting it on stands.
I change the Rangers oil. Don’t need to jack it up but, I’m in my 60’s now so the ramps just make the process effortless. I can get at the filter without removing the tire. I did change out the plastic rivets the factory uses though. Those are most definitely a PITARick, I remember an experience with a front wheel drive car...had some drive up ramps and it would try to spin them underneath the tires!
Do you change oil on your Ranger yourself and if so do you need to jack it up? Also, do you find it as convenient as taking it to a shop? I try to do every thing I can within reason so it gets done right
Where are the plastic rivets and what are they attached to? A photo or illustration would be appreciated if available
. Do you use the factory plug and torque yourself or do you have an aftermarket with a valve?
PS, the upgrade to the 265/70/17's should give me a 1.5" increase in height for a little more clearance. Also, my driveway is sloped so this may help a little bit more.Where are the plastic rivets and what are they attached to? A photo or illustration would be appreciated if available
I changed mine without jacking it . There are a few good videos on YouTube. I followed one that had me turn the wheel full right to provide enough room to access the filter. You will probably need a filter wrench as the factory puts them on fairly tight.
Plastic rivets are holding the mud flap in place that covers the oil filter access. You need a fork trim tool and a Phillips screw driver to get them out. It’s an exercise in contortions. Reinserting them isn’t the issue. I got the ones pictured for 6mm hole size. Pop the top then pull rivet.Where are the plastic rivets and what are they attached to? A photo or illustration would be appreciated if available
Thanks Rick,Plastic rivets are holding the mud flap in place that covers the oil filter access. You need a fork trim tool and a Phillips screw driver to get them out. It’s an exercise in contortions. Reinserting them isn’t the issue. I got the ones pictured for 6mm hole size. Pop the top then pull rivet.
Couple of members mentioned using magnets as a replacement. Not so sure about that with New England weather.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LDJ0QJQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&psc=1
I did the Fumoto one with the detachable hose. Money well spent! https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-ford-2020-ranger-2-3l-l4-turbo
First time I removed them into the emergency parts bag and put the new style in. Same as you, as I come across more for whatever I’m doing just replace them. Whoever invented that style of fastener was a masochistThanks Rick,
I think this Panel removal tool kit from Amazon will work for the rivets. The rivets look similar to the ones that I replaced before installing the AVS Bug Deflector. Do you replace the existing rivets after you remove them or do you use new ones after each removal?
Looks good. Every time I see that glock “survival” kit I want one. But, every time I see the price tag, I cry.I love it when a plan comes together! ?
And I already mounted a Swing Case on the passenger side.
I returned the Gerber e-tool I "impulse-bought" for $52 at Sportsman's Warehouse since this Glock one was cheaper (and has a saw blade in the handle). The knife was cheap too compared to how much they go for:
