Useful 3D printed items..

ControlNode

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I bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro and several upgrades (controller, touch screen, hot end, glass bed, etc). Loving it so far. So far my favorite prints are the mounts for the AMB transponders for racing. I did a test with 10 that I handed out at the last Time Trail and got back. PLA was a known issue with those before, the test, but they all came back still holding the transponder fine. Some were warped from heat as I had not imagined the cars getting that hot on the lower grill area. I have some minor tweaks to the design and some ABS now for the next test later this year.

anyone have PLA printed things in the truck? wondering how they hold up to the summer heat.
They won't hold up to the heat or UV very well.
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GTGallop

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but are they really under any load themselves?
once the lugs are torqued, the friction between the wheel and the hub, studs and nuts are what take the load.

I only ask because i recall someone in the earlier days crying foul that the rings that came with their wheels were plastic.
I guess my point is this. I agree wth you. Totally agree with you. But is still makes my sphincter pucker and I wouldn't bet my nuts on it.
 

ctechbob

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Its been my understanding, in my last 30 years of driving, that given that you have tapered lug nuts, as long as you follow the proper procedure for tightening the lugs, that the wheel centers on the lugs, making the rings unnecessary.

Ergo, I've never used them, even on cars that I tracked with R-Comp tires. Never had a single problem, wobble, vibration, or failure from not using a plastic or metal ring to 'center' my wheels.
 

WLFPIR8

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That makes sense. My concern was temperatures making the rings melt all over my wheels and hub assembly. That's why I got PETG, it has a melting point similar to ABS but is less toxic to print. The rings I bought were ABS anyways, but with better tolerances than I'm sure I would have gotten from my printer.
I really like ASA and use it on all my parts. Like ABS with better UV resistance and less smelly to print.
 

WLFPIR8

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anyone have PLA printed things in the truck? wondering how they hold up to the summer heat.
If it's exposed, PETG or ASA is the best thing to use. Inside or non exposed areas, PLA is fine. PLA will fade/get brittle, etc with UV and extreme temps. Heat will cause it to deform severely as it's printed pretty "cold" in comparison to other plastics.
 


Dunneldeen

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I really like ASA and use it on all my parts. Like ABS with better UV resistance and less smelly to print.
I have one of his power adapters and can attest that it handles 110+ heat, lots of rain and snow without missing a beat.
 

Dr3wDrop

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Does anyone know of a 3D printed UCA cap? The ones sold by Icon and other brands are a little ridiculous.

found this on another forum.

B52493CB-4145-4D1B-A96D-D7DEE36D3AC6.png
 
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JDowns

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I really like ASA and use it on all my parts. Like ABS with better UV resistance and less smelly to print.
I usually print in PLA for quick - cheap prototyping, and test fitting. Then move on to a finish material.

Nylon is probably my least favorite but fantastic for working parts, horrible for post processing, but the end part can be fantastic.

PC has been wonderful to work with, strong, easy to post process, and just prints reliably time and time again.

Most co-polymers (PET, CPE, CPE+, PETG) are also great and easy to post process, but I find without sealing with a clear coat just become brittle over time like PLA. Although CPE+ has held up nicely on a few projects.

I just did a complete overhaul / maintenance on my printer. New hot ends, cleaned the feeders, new Bowden tubes, greased and cleaned. After some calibration I have to say ASA may become my goto filament. Lightweight, strong, easy to post process, nice semi finish that isn't glossy like other filaments, with a good heated enclosure absolutely no warping or deforming, and not a bad print quality for a fast print at .2mm. Starting at 400 to 1000 grit this would finish out nicely if it were an exposed part.

IMG_3715.JPG
 

ControlNode

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Its been my understanding, in my last 30 years of driving, that given that you have tapered lug nuts, as long as you follow the proper procedure for tightening the lugs, that the wheel centers on the lugs, making the rings unnecessary.

Ergo, I've never used them, even on cars that I tracked with R-Comp tires. Never had a single problem, wobble, vibration, or failure from not using a plastic or metal ring to 'center' my wheels.
If the hub is designed to support the weight the studs only two jobs are to hold the wheel to the hub and transfer acceleration/braking forces to the wheel. While you may never have an issue, if you ever have a failure from overloading the studs by adding supporting vehicle and impact shocks any resulting damage is your own fault. I understand the studs may hold just fine, but the engineers didn't think they could at 100% load, so they used a hub centric design to take some of the load off of the studs. If the vehicle had a hub centric setup, best to stick with it unless you've put the engineering research into all the parts you are using to verify they can meet or 100% max load (full braking, turning and bump at once).
 

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I'm actually a little surprised that there isn't more listed here.

Just got into 3D printing myself. Picked up an Ender 3 S1 Pro and have been printing out all sorts of useless crap. One of the first things was the funnel. My wife just shook her head when I got done with it.

"You spent how long printing a funnel??" ?
 
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CompDude

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I'm actually a little surprised that there isn't more listed here.

Just got into 3D printing myself. Picked up an Ender 3 S1 Pro and have been printing out all sorts of useless crap. One of the first things was the funnel. My wife just shook her head when I got done with it.

"You spent how long printing a funnel??" ?
The funnel is fantastic.. I am printing tool box organizers now..
 
 



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