Uhhmmm... need new brakes at 7100 miles??? Guess so...

[Tako]

I would say it’s normal for a 3,5 years and 7100 miles. I suggest to check front brakes too, if everything is moving and discs-pads are ok.

Normal?
No way

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[PltFX4]

Oddly, i've gotten by with some needle nose to get the calipers compressed. press & turn.

That's what I saw in the YouTube video... as I think about it ( and I have a pair) these might do it:

But the tool is cheap enough and it's so F-en hot out, why struggle at all..

Also, in the various videos I saw, there were comments about clockwise and counter clockwise depending on which side of the truck your working on but no clear statement of which way on the respective side. Anyone know which is which???

 

[Kristina]

Normal?
No way

OP described the conditions he drives the truck in some comments above.
Just by the brakes you can tell pretty much how the car or truck is used.

 

[Radioman]

That's what I saw in the YouTube video... as I think about it ( and I have a pair) these might do it:

But the tool is cheap enough and it's so F-en hot out, why struggle at all..

Also, in the various videos I saw, there were comments about clockwise and counter clockwise depending on which side of the truck your working on but no clear statement of which way on the respective side. Anyone know which is which???

Passenger - CW
Driver - CCW

 

[BassRanger]

If you value your knuckles and your sanity, go to to a parts store and rent the proper rear brake tool. It's literally free at most auto parts stores.

If you encounter a modicum of resistance retracting those pistons, you're going to be in for a bad time trying to go at it with a set of pliers. It's possible, but there's no point of risking the possible headache when you can rent the tool for free.

 

[Glocker]

If you value your knuckles and your sanity, go to to a parts store and rent the proper rear brake tool. It's literally free at most auto parts stores.

If you encounter a modicum of resistance retracting those pistons, you're going to be in for a bad time trying to go at it with a set of pliers. It's possible, but there's no point of risking the possible headache when you can rent the tool for free.

Especially with the prospect of a stuck caliper. I always fear ripping one of the rubber boots on the piston.

 

[PltFX4]

Especially with the prospect of a stuck caliper. I always fear ripping one of the rubber boots on the piston.

Yep... just used the new tool... worked well, but is still fiddly (or I have nit figured out how best to use it). You first get the tool in place and adjust it to put some tension on... then screw the T handle CCW (driver side... Thanks @Radioman) but that immediately takes the tension off. So you need two wrenches... one a an extension lever over the T handle to screw in the piston, and a crescent wrench (vise grip, whatever) to go on the tensioner and simultaneously rotate in the opposite direction of the T handle.... all while the caliper is hanging there. But it worked anyway, so all is good.

 

[Glocker]

Yep... just used the new tool... worked well, but is still fiddly (or I have nit figured out how best to use it). You first get the tool in place and adjust it to put some tension on... then screw the T handle CCW (driver side... Thanks @Radioman) but that immediately takes the tension off. So you need two wrenches... one a an extension lever over the T handle to screw in the piston, and a crescent wrench (vise grip, whatever) to go on the tensioner and simultaneously rotate in the opposite direction of the T handle.... all while the caliper is hanging there. But it worked anyway, so all is good.

Right! It's awkward, like sex for the first time! ?

Couple that with the fact the caliper was stuck, but there was the uncertainty of which way I should have been turning it for that side of the truck, so was it really stuck, or was I turning it the wrong way? It turns out it was stuck. Then there was the, "Oh shit, do I need a new caliper? Because just finding a replacement rotor was pure luck!" Ughhhhh. What a fun experience! ?

 

[PltFX4]

Right! It's awkward, like sex for the first time! ?

Couple that with the fact the caliper was stuck, but there was the uncertainty of which way I should have been turning it for that side of the truck, so was it really stuck, or was I turning it the wrong way? It turns out it was stuck. Then there was the, "Oh shit, do I need a new caliper? Because just finding a replacement rotor was pure luck!" Ughhhhh. What a fun experience! ?

Yep... that's why I practiced a lot...

But I am making progress... driver side done... should finish the passenger side tomorrow...

Before:

and finally, after:

Finally, post makeover...

 

[nevada.tracy]

My 2020 xlt needs back brakes and rotors with only 56,000 miles. Put on new tires and had a 4 wheel alignment. Only 3% left on the driver's side 4%left on the passenger side. And it does bounce when hitting the peddle hard like the rotors are warped

 

[jaws1162]

My 2019 Lariat FX4 SuperCrew, in theory, should not need new rear pads and rotors at 7100 miles. I was changing them to some newer fancy rotors and pads just because. But glad I did. Take a look:

So, obviously, a 3.5 year old truck with 7100 miles sits a lot which is the root cause of the issue. But given the back side center groove and thin inboard pad, I'd say the parking brake is not releasing as it should. (This is driver side rear... ran out of daylight thus passenger side will get done tomorrow... hope it's not as bad.)

Also first experience with a "screw in" caliper piston.... not a fan.

My 2019 Lariat FX4 SuperCrew, in theory, should not need new rear pads and rotors at 7100 miles. I was changing them to some newer fancy rotors and pads just because. But glad I did. Take a look:

So, obviously, a 3.5 year old truck with 7100 miles sits a lot which is the root cause of the issue. But given the back side center groove and thin inboard pad, I'd say the parking brake is not releasing as it should. (This is driver side rear... ran out of daylight thus passenger side will get done tomorrow... hope it's not as bad.)

Also first experience with a "screw in" caliper piston.... not a fan.

Your rotors and pads looked like mine at 24000 miles, the braking layer on the rotor delaminated right off the remaining rotor.

 

[JHRODD]

That's nasty looking for 7,000 miles. I live near salt water and this is how mine looks at 13,000miles :

 

[Conman50]

To those replacing pads and rotors, are you going OEM?

Anyone have better long term durability with aftermarket? I'm thinking about getting ceramic pads

 

[Glocker]

Click this link to see how my rotor looked! HAHAHAHA
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/brake-job-terribleness.15198/#post-305214

 

[PltFX4]

And now the rest of the story...
As mentioned above somewhere, I did there rears when a set of near matching rotors became available at a very good price... not knowing I would really NEED them.

I say matching as I was putting the Pedders BBK on the fronts... and here they are:

The peddle feel is SIGNIFICANTLY better now and initial bite much quicker. I like the setup.

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