Towing new camper

[mtbikernate]

Meant to add, I have a tried and true Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake control. Simple 4 wire hook up to the 4 wires under the dash. Have always used them and I don't rely on the emergency braking while towing, did not feel the need to get the Redac system.

I've got a P2 installed on my Ranger as well.

Though I have been tempted to get the Redarc so the AEB system works, too. If TSHTF, I think I'd like the trailer brakes also activate if someone does something stupid in front of me and causes the emergency braking system to activate.

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[Jedadiah]

I've never towed a camper, but had a Prodigy P2 installed in my Previous Golf TDI. I have a Redarc Liberty in my Ranger. Both have identical capabilities: i.e they use an accelerometer and you can manually turn on the brakes. I never used the lever on the P2 other than to test trailer brakes, but manually activating the brakes it is clearly better on the Prodigy. It's got a lever with some heft and it feels like you are doing something. The Redarc just has the button, which while a con as far as activation, is a big pro for placement.

I would have probably used the P2 in my Ranger, but I didn't want to see it and couldn't figure out where I could put it and still operate it easily. I didn't;t want to drill into the front of any panels. In daily operation, both work just as well.

The Golf's brakes were fine unloaded, but you could feel a loaded trailer, which the brakes solved.

 

[dtech]

Opinions on this wdh (link below) , will be towing a 4,200 TT , No boundries 19.5 , it's made in China, not surprisingly, but it's lighter in weight and inexpensive, if I decide to buy American made I'd probably opt for a Curt, although Curt ticked me off yrs ago when their brake light module failed after 2 uses, they were know to be junk but it was 9 yrs back. Stuff I've bought made in China has been pretty good quality. Like a Weider Pro 125 lbs home gym which amazingly cost just $170 .

For the brake controller bought this , but it looks like it comes with a short harness - probably need to order a harness for it ?

Tekonsha 8508220 Brake-EVN, Proportional Brake Controller for Trailers with 1-4 Axles, Black


https://www.amazon.com/Distribution-Distributing-Hitches-2-5-Ball/dp/B0CFF3GH77/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?crid=30TQ5EKN2R28W&keywords=andersen+weight+distribution+hitches&qid=1692483129&sprefix=andersen+weight+distribution+hitches,aps,129&sr=8-12-spons&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.c3015c4a-46bb-44b9-81a4-dc28e6d374b3&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1#:~:text=to zoom in-,VEVOR Weight Distribution Hitch, 1,500 lbs Weight Distributing Hitches Kit with Sway Control for Trailer, 2-in Solid Steel Shank, 2-5/16 in Alloy Steel Ball, Powder Coated Load Leveling Hitch, Black,-Brand: VEOVR

 

[Frenchy]

I would recommend a different WDH. I say either Curt or Reese will do what you need. You don't even have to get one with a sway control built in and should do what you need

 

[dtech]

I would recommend a different WDH. I say either Curt or Reese will do what you need. You don't even have to get one with a sway control built in and should do what you need

thanks, I saw the reese is reasonably priced, vevor also makes tools and mostly gets decent reviews.

 

[Grumpaw]

Those bars are way to heavy/stiff for your tongue weight....if you go with the 19.6 you posted about.
That trailer had a dry tongue weight of 490, loaded, you'll probably be around 600-650, and I would look at a set with around 750 lb bars. Thicker/heavier rated bars will give you a very stiff rebound and ride...the whole system when in operation has to flex and move.
And, I would also recommend going with a brand name weight dist hitch.....this is one area you do not want to cut corners on. You do get what you pay for. Just looking at the photo, the ball and bars are supported by nothing more than an upper and lower welded on plate with tubes for the bars. Plates only have one weld.....cheap.
Take a close look at any of the brand name hitch heads and you will see forged one piece heads, and if plates are used their twice as thick as the China stuff, with good, double welds.
I have been and am on several RV web sites, and I don't remember anyone ever getting an off brand setup like what you listed, nor was one ever recommended.
Also, whatever hitch set up you do decide on, you will need a longer hitch shank than the one pictured....you'll probably need one with at least an 8 hole, or 10 hole drop to get the hitch head lower to match up with the trailers head....remember, the ass end of the Rangers sit high. On my 2 wheel drive, I use a 10 hole shank to get the hitch head low enough. Usually with the better name brands they will list options as to bar weight rating and shank length/drop.
AOK on the Tekonsha
Recommend you look on ETrailer site for hitches...their prices are as good as and in some cases better than Amazon, and they are have many info areas for help...probably the best hitch site.

 

[Frenchy]

Those bars are way to heavy/stiff for your tongue weight....if you go with the 19.6 you posted about.
That trailer had a dry tongue weight of 490, loaded, you'll probably be around 600-650, and I would look at a set with around 750 lb bars. Thicker/heavier rated bars will give you a very stiff rebound and ride...the whole system when in operation has to flex and move.
And, I would also recommend going with a brand name weight dist hitch.....this is one area you do not want to cut corners on. You do get what you pay for. Just looking at the photo, the ball and bars are supported by nothing more than an upper and lower welded on plate with tubes for the bars. Plates only have one weld.....cheap.
Take a close look at any of the brand name hitch heads and you will see forged one piece heads, and if plates are used their twice as thick as the China stuff, with good, double welds.
I have been and am on several RV web sites, and I don't remember anyone ever getting an off brand setup like what you listed, nor was one ever recommended.
Also, whatever hitch set up you do decide on, you will need a longer hitch shank than the one pictured....you'll probably need one with at least an 8 hole, or 10 hole drop to get the hitch head lower to match up with the trailers head....remember, the ass end of the Rangers sit high. On my 2 wheel drive, I use a 10 hole shank to get the hitch head low enough. Usually with the better name brands they will list options as to bar weight rating and shank length/drop.
AOK on the Tekonsha
Recommend you look on ETrailer site for hitches...their prices are as good as and in some cases better than Amazon, and they are have many info areas for help...probably the best hitch site.

I 100% agree with the saying "you get what you pay for". Even with the little I have towed, I always made sure I had good equipment that was up to snuff. With the Ranger lifted and having bigger tires it made it fun getting the right hitch for a U-Haul trailer. Who knows what it would be like with a camper trailer. My 2016 Frontier was easier to setup.

 

[ControlNode]

For offroad you don't want a weight distribution hitch. With as light as that is, 5k lb max, I'm not sure I would bother with WD hitch any way. Just a good adjustable hitch so you can get the tongue height right. Make sure it's loaded right, so it's not too light on the tongue. Unlike the F150 series that Ford states requires WD for trailers 5k and up, the Ranger does not have that requirement in the tow manuals. Not saying WD is a bad idea for road use, just not required and should not be used off-road.

I not sure what sway bar has been mentioned, rear axle sway bar for the truck or an anti-sway for the trailer.

 

[ctechbob]

For offroad you don't want a weight distribution hitch. With as light as that is, 5k lb max, I'm not sure I would bother with WD hitch any way. Just a good adjustable hitch so you can get the tongue height right. Make sure it's loaded right, so it's not too light on the tongue. Unlike the F150 series that Ford states requires WD for trailers 5k and up, the Ranger does not have that requirement in the tow manuals. Not saying WD is a bad idea for road use, just not required and should not be used off-road.

I not sure what sway bar has been mentioned, rear axle sway bar for the truck or an anti-sway for the trailer.

@Grumpaw is talking about the hitch bars.

Yea, you wouldn't want to use them offroad, but for getting to the destination they'll make things more comfy.

I've got my weights posted here somewhere, but dropping a bunch of weight on the rear takes a good bit off the front. I know Ford says you don't need them, but for overall comfort and safety, I'd never go long distances without one. And sure you could do it without the anti-sway of certain hitches too, but if you're buying one anyways, might as well get one with it.

Better to have it and not need it in this case, is my overall feeling.

 

[ControlNode]

@Grumpaw is talking about the hitch bars.

Yea, you wouldn't want to use them offroad, but for getting to the destination they'll make things more comfy.

I've got my weights posted here somewhere, but dropping a bunch of weight on the rear takes a good bit off the front. I know Ford says you don't need them, but for overall comfort and safety, I'd never go long distances without one. And sure you could do it without the anti-sway of certain hitches too, but if you're buying one anyways, might as well get one with it.

Better to have it and not need it in this case, is my overall feeling.

Agreed, I've towed several TTs with the Ranger, but my main towing is cars on the car trailer and the loads very so much from car to car that not having to mess with a WD setup for me is just easier.

 

[ctechbob]

Agreed, I've towed several TTs with the Ranger, but my main towing is cars on the car trailer and the loads very so much from car to car that not having to mess with a WD setup for me is just easier.

Ohh absolutely. I've used the Uhaul car hauler a few times and it loads the hell out of the tongue. I'd drive it cross country no problem.

But if I owned a car trailer, it would either be better balanced or I'd put bars on it...if I were doing a helluva lot of long-distance towing.

I rented a few campers before we bought ours and never bothered with WD either, but same thing, now that I own one, bought the hitch.

 

[JimG_AZ]

Opinions on this wdh (link below) , will be towing a 4,200 TT , No boundries 19.5 , it's made in China, not surprisingly, but it's lighter in weight and inexpensive, if I decide to buy American made I'd probably opt for a Curt, although Curt ticked me off yrs ago when their brake light module failed after 2 uses, they were know to be junk but it was 9 yrs back. Stuff I've bought made in China has been pretty good quality. Like a Weider Pro 125 lbs home gym which amazingly cost just $170 .

Like Grumpaw said, the spring bars are way too heavy. Last year, I needed a weight distributing hitch and was ready to pull the trigger on one on ETrailer.com. Before I placed an order, I happened to check OfferUp and found a used Equal-i-zer for $250. I think I saved close to $500 by buying it used. I would check OfferUp, Facebook Marketplace and CraigsList and see if you get lucky on a used one.

 

[dtech]

I think I'm starting to get it, hitches has to be matched to the specifics of the trailer and tow vehicle, tow height and weights. how about if I start with a height adjustable shank and add the sway bars and ball assembly that matches tongue and TW.

 

[Grumpaw]

I think I'm starting to get it, hitches has to be matched to the specifics of the trailer and tow vehicle, tow height and weights. how about if I start with a height adjustable shank and add the sway bars and ball assembly that matches tongue and TW.

That is probably the best way for you to go. The hitch shanks, even from different manufacturers, will have the same hole spacing...it's an industry standard. So, you can buy a shank and then buy a head and bars separately. Several manufacturers do sell the head and bars separately, and you buy the shank.
The 3 photos show my hitch head and the 10 hole shank I had to buy to get the head low enough...it also shows what a proper well made head looks like.
the 3rd pic is of my trailer coupler, which is on a Jayco. It is called an "underslung" coupler cause it's welded to the bottom of the frame rails....the reason for my having to get a bigger "drop" shank. A regular coupler, on about 90% of trailers, including Forrest River, have standard couplers, welded to the top of the frame.
Thus, you might not need such a deep drop shank. It will also depend on the height of the trucks rear, stock, lifted, ect.
I still would advise you to get a larger drop from the start, will save you from buying one to short. The one I have from Amazon is a Curt 17123...$95 bucks...Curt is top of the line quality.
Go to ETrailer web site...they have several video's on how to measure your trailer/truck for the proper placement of the head.

 

[dtech]

Any comments on this wdh, the distance to the bottom of the receiver on the Ranger is 20" , the ball height on the trailer when level will be ~ 19" , this wdh has 6 holes for height adjustment, tw up to 800 lbs and gross trailer weight of 8k lbs, I'll be well under both, uvw for trailer = 4161 lbs and togue weight of 472. My head was bulging from trying to select a TT , didn't think selecting the hitch would have as many parameters (I kind of understand why now) but l plead ignorance as this will be my 1st RV. The comments/advice on this board are awesome, extremely helpful and educational. This wdh even provides a $17 discount coupon at checkout, yes it's made in China but it wouldn't surprise me if most are made there. Curt I believe does US mfg.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BXDN71J8/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?
smid=A3N8U4EZR7DEGE&th=1

or I might spend a few more $$ and buy this Curt, for around $350

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/CURT/C69JR.html

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