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SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

airline tech

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I'll check that.

BTW, Just so I am clear, previously you folks were talking about some washer shims. Would that be at the location of the red arrow in the photo attached?

I never messed with the dual setting in the climate menu. It turned off by itself.

vent_motor.jpg
Yes, and this is actually a good pic as you can see the marks where it popped out of the guide and the misalignment.
So, shimming here will not fix the problem however it helps it remain functional.
But shim too much and you are creating another binding point.
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RangerBill

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Ran Forscan see captured output below.

Code: B1081 - Left Temperature Damper Motor

Additional Fault Symptom :)13):
- Circuit Open

Module: Front Controls Interface Module
This code would indicate a bad actuator motor or open wiring (blue-white / yellow-orange wires) between the motor and the FCIM.
 

RangerBill

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Ran Forscan see captured output below.

What I see on the second code is "Circuit Open"

Could this be the "grease getting into the contacts" issue with the servo motor? As described at about 2:52 in this video:


Code: B1081 - Left Temperature Damper Motor

Additional Fault Symptom :)07):
- Mechanical Failures

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Front Controls Interface Module

Code: B1081 - Left Temperature Damper Motor

Additional Fault Symptom :)13):
- Circuit Open

Status (-0A):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Front Controls Interface Module
Here is how to check the circuit with an ohmmeter, should be less than 3 ohms for a good reading. If the wiring checks ok, then the motor may be open.

L3 CHECK THE LH (LEFT-HAND) SIDE TEMPERATURE DOOR ACTUATOR CIRCUITS FOR AN OPEN
  • Disconnect LH side temperature door actuator C2091.
  • Measure:


    Positive LeadMeasurement / ActionNegative Lead
    C2402A-3ohm C2091-4
    C2402A-2ohm C2091-6




    Positive LeadMeasurement / ActionNegative Lead
    C2402B-13ohm C2091-3
    C2402B-18ohm C2091-5
    C2402B-14ohm C2091-7
Are the resistances less than 3 ohms?

Yes
GO to L4
No
REPAIR the circuit.​
 

Dean

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Thankyou all for the suggestions. I'm done for today. I'm traveling tomorrow, so I will probably deep dive into this on Monday.

FWIW - Not my first Rodeo regarding Ford climate control. I recently "redesigned" the motor vents on my 1988 Merkur Scorpio here: https://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=378073#p378073
 

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I'll check that.

BTW, Just so I am clear, previously you folks were talking about some washer shims. Would that be at the location of the red arrow in the photo attached?

I never messed with the dual setting in the climate menu. It turned off by itself.

vent_motor.jpg
Can you adjust the temp from the passenger control independent of the driver side? That should activate dual control until it is turned off in the Climate screen, or as mentioned when the fuse is pulled; single control of both sides from the driver's is the default.
 


Dean

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I can adjust the passenger side independently. It is clear that the problem is the driver's side actuator. The ecu thinks open circuit so either actuator or connections to it. I think the ECU turns off independent control when it detects such a failure. I've always had it set to independent control.

I couldn't get to it today so probably tomorrow. I'll play with connector first. But if I pull the actuator to either clean or replace then I will also remove the cam piece as well and see if I can make a parametric 3d model of that part. This way if needed in the future by myself or another a possible way to deal with the pin popping out of the cam groove might be addressed. Granted if the damper door is jammed this wont help, but it might be a viable option for some cases.

In other words 3d print a new cam in nylon that has a deeper groove or altered offset, etc...
 

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Just an update. Clearing codes with Forscan and resetting/self test of FCIM did not resolve.

I am still left with B1081:07.

So I have to pull the driver's side actuator. Unfortunately, I have been real busy this week. I probably won't be able to pull the actuator out until next week.
 

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I have a slightly off topic question. Did they ever fix the blend box warping issue? I had mine replaced under warranty on 10/21/24. And now it starting again. But now I’m outside of the three year by two weeks. Mine is 22. So if the issue was pre 2021, not sure why mine had the issue in the first place unless Ford never fixed the issue. Anyone had a similar situation that could offer some advice?
 

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I'll check that.

BTW, Just so I am clear, previously you folks were talking about some washer shims. Would that be at the location of the red arrow in the photo attached?

I never messed with the dual setting in the climate menu. It turned off by itself.

vent_motor.jpg
Dean, I don't know why I was not receiving updates on this thread. Yes, where your arrow is is where I added nylon washers to push the blue bell crank tighter against the white lever and pin. I used a washer with a larger hole to go over the raised boss and fill that space and then a second sized to the shaft size. These moved the bell crank out and also didnt allow it to tilt as much on the shaft. Hope this is helpful.
 

rrwhitman

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Just an update. Clearing codes with Forscan and resetting/self test of FCIM did not resolve.

I am still left with B1081:07.

So I have to pull the driver's side actuator. Unfortunately, I have been real busy this week. I probably won't be able to pull the actuator out until next week.

Hello again - did you ever get to the driver's side actuator? I know the driver's side is much more difficult to access than the passenger side. I recall a hole having to be drilled in a metal support to access one of the the actuator's mounting screws? (My truck isn't dual zone so I only have the passenger side actuator.)
 

Dr. Zaius

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So I just finished a long chat with Ford about SSM 50629.

I shot a video where the HVAC is set for 70 degrees, Dual is off, and I'm getting 72 degrees out of the driver side and 117 degrees out of the passenger side.

I have dropped my truck off several times for this exact issue and always get a No Problem Found back.

Ford created a FAR request so we'll see how that goes.

My warranty is up in December and I don't want, nay, I will not deal with this out of warranty.

If it comes back again with a No Problem Found it will be traded ASAP.

Sad, because I really like this truck, better than anything out there available right now.

I'm just tired of the Ford dealers screwing me over on known issues.
 

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So I just finished a long chat with Ford about SSM 50629.

I shot a video where the HVAC is set for 70 degrees, Dual is off, and I'm getting 72 degrees out of the driver side and 117 degrees out of the passenger side.

I have dropped my truck off several times for this exact issue and always get a No Problem Found back.

Ford created a FAR request so we'll see how that goes.

My warranty is up in December and I don't want, nay, I will not deal with this out of warranty.

If it comes back again with a No Problem Found it will be traded ASAP.

Sad, because I really like this truck, better than anything out there available right now.

I'm just tired of the Ford dealers screwing me over on known issues.
Sounds like you need a new dealership. If I recall correctly the bulletin states that if the customer is complaining about the issue alone, the repair needs to take place. I have the issue happen once on me randomly and I was questioning it. When I was getting close to being outside the warranty I had it happen more permanently and decided to get it taken care of right at the end of the warranty. I agree that this should not be dealt with outside of the warranty and that your dealership sucks
 

Dr. Zaius

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Sounds like you need a new dealership. If I recall correctly the bulletin states that if the customer is complaining about the issue alone, the repair needs to take place. I have the issue happen once on me randomly and I was questioning it. When I was getting close to being outside the warranty I had it happen more permanently and decided to get it taken care of right at the end of the warranty. I agree that this should not be dealt with outside of the warranty and that your dealership sucks
It has been to different dealerships.

Both came back with No Problem Found.

And then I amazingly found it on my way home.

Hopefully with Ford getting involved they will do something besides pass the buck.
 

Jason B

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So I just finished a long chat with Ford about SSM 50629.

I shot a video where the HVAC is set for 70 degrees, Dual is off, and I'm getting 72 degrees out of the driver side and 117 degrees out of the passenger side.

I have dropped my truck off several times for this exact issue and always get a No Problem Found back.

Ford created a FAR request so we'll see how that goes.

My warranty is up in December and I don't want, nay, I will not deal with this out of warranty.

If it comes back again with a No Problem Found it will be traded ASAP.

Sad, because I really like this truck, better than anything out there available right now.

I'm just tired of the Ford dealers screwing me over on known issues.
Will they cover 'under warranty' even if the warranty ended?
OEM warranty is usually 3yr/36K bumper to bumper, 5yr/60k drive train.
Since this is a known issue, maybe they will own up to it and pay for repairs.
 

Dr. Zaius

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Will they cover 'under warranty' even if the warranty ended?
OEM warranty is usually 3yr/36K bumper to bumper, 5yr/60k drive train.
Since this is a known issue, maybe they will own up to it and pay for repairs.
Mine is still under the extended warranty.
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