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Thank you!

Great information - thanks. No undercoating or mud here, by the way. Can you elaborate on what kind of reasonably-priced code reader is necessary to see that level of detail? The one I have only displays the P-codes. Thanks!

Thanks, Bill. I've read that you can lower the tank enough to do this and not totally remove it. Do you know if that is true? Also, the links on removing the fuel tank and the quick release fittings - can you expand on those links and post as well? Many thanks!

Hi everyone, Check engine light yesterday - code P0451. When the truck was still under warranty I had a check engine light (don't recall the code) and was told it was a hose associated with the fuel tank evaporation system and that the tank had to be emptied and dropped to fix. What are...

Thanks, it is running well. Seems smoother overall, not just at low speed/part throttle. I read your post about replacing your sensor. You are exactly right about your hands blocking the light while disconnecting the hoses! In the future, if I need to do this again, I would consider clipping...

Hope the double post is okay - I meant to reply to this thread. I replaced my sensor (with the hoses) today. 80,000 miles. I had been experiencing stumbling and bucking, particularly at low speed/part throttle. Yesterday while sitting idling the check engine light came on. Code P139C. My local...

I replaced my sensor (with the hoses) today. 80,000 miles. I had been experiencing stumbling and bucking, particularly at low speed/part throttle. Yesterday while sitting idling the check engine light came on. Code P139C. My local Ford dealer had the LB5Z-9J433-B assembly in their regional...

Hello again - did you ever get to the driver's side actuator? I know the driver's side is much more difficult to access than the passenger side. I recall a hole having to be drilled in a metal support to access one of the the actuator's mounting screws? (My truck isn't dual zone so I only...

Dean, I don't know why I was not receiving updates on this thread. Yes, where your arrow is is where I added nylon washers to push the blue bell crank tighter against the white lever and pin. I used a washer with a larger hole to go over the raised boss and fill that space and then a second...

Hello - as described in this and other threads fixing the problem can involve taking things apart, replacing the actuator if it is damaged, putting it back together and hoping it doesn't happen again, replacing the the actuator with a manual control (like Blue Streak), shimming the bell crank...

Yes, these types of forums are invaluable. It is crazy that if you are just an uninformed truck owner, and you roll into Ford saying you have no heat, the fix is 3000-4000 dollars and takes tearing the whole truck apart - all because of the alignment of a 1/4 inch long pin coming out of a slot...

Good observation. When my blend door pin jumped out of the slot it had been on max heat for quite a while and everything was very warm in the truck. When I spun the selector all the way to cold that is when I heard the mechanism come apart and the clicking/thumping. That experience seems...

So far so good even though the temperature has been set mostly on heat. When I've turned the heat down I've moved the selector little by little, thinking that moving the mechanism slowly would perhaps lessen the chance of the pin jumping out of the slot. I don't know if that's true or not but...

Also, the splined shaft of the bell crank is not a tight, press fit onto the shaft of the actuator. There is a small amount of play which allows the bell crank to slightly move/rock out of parallel alignment. At the outer edge of the bell crank that slight movement is amplified and could result...

I couldn't actually feel the play since the bellcrank is pretty much hidden behind the actuator when it is in place. I am making an assumption that by tightening the bellcrank against the white lever it will reduce the possibility of the pin jumping out of the slot. I used two nylon washers...

Added two nylon washers between the blue cam and the body of the actuator which moved the cam out about 1/16 inch and tightened it up against the white lever/pin. Back together and working - will post if the pin jumps out of the slot in the future. At least I have heat - 20's in the a.m.

Great videos - thanks for those. We are thinking along the same lines. It doesn't seem likely that the shaft/doors are binding anywhere near enough to damage the actuators. I believe the pin of the white lever is jumping out of the slot of the (in my case) blue cam due to the white lever no...

I just plugged the actuator back in (to make sure it was fine after popping its cover) and cycling back and forth between hot and cold it moves fine. Trying to hold against the rotation of the blue bellcrank demonstrates that it is quite strong! I cannot imagine the air blend door or shaft...

I did try to stop the movement of the actuator when it was commanded by the controls and I was unable to. Opening and examing the actuator's gears I do not see any damage at all. I do see scoring where the pin jumped out of the slot of the blue cam/bellcrank. I noticed the noise (sort of a...

Just like Blue Streak's photo in post 381, I can see where the pin on the white lever jumped out of the slot in the blue cam, preventing its normal travel. I know that the underlying issue is warping but I'm hoping an easier fix than replacing the whole box could be something that prevents the...