SPD Performance Downpipe

[Ranger2020zoomzoom]

No concern for me, there seems to be enough clearance, more than stock. But no heat shields like the stock had on it

Some guys have wrapped theirs, I didn't

Usually runs around 550-750 if I'm on it for the cat temps but cools down pretty quickly

On hot days I'll crack the hood after a good drive

Nice! Okay cool, I threw my first code after about 15 miles. P0420, I’ll have to do the defouler. Did you do a tune after you installed yours? Thanks for the info !

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[Ranger2020zoomzoom]

Almost a year running my SPD Catted Downpipe and it's been running strong since!

Did it require you to do the defouler trick or a tune to get rid of the CEL?

 

[yamahaSHO]

You're fucking with me, right?

Did you really just respond to my comment....


With this?


I've been driving and modding factory turbocharged cars for over 20 years. An untuned for downpipe is, has been, and always will be a recipe for disaster.

Do with your truck as you wish. As I said in my first response to you, hopefully you can run it without a tune, or problems forever.

Of course throttle response is improved, you're moving more air, and boost is building faster. Problem is all that additional air from your increased airflow doesn't get any additional fuel to compensate. Without a doubt at a minimum your engine is seeing sporadic lean conditions, if it's not always running lean. I would be curious to see your dyno chart for the "power accross the range" comment though. But something tells me that if you're to cheap to tune for your downpipe you haven't dyno'd it.

Tuning is a bit better than the days of GD Subaru's (and any EJ Subaru at that). Although I do agree that you'd want to tune for a downpipe, it's not quite the same as it used to be in erratic boost control, boost creep, and potentially running lean. I haven't looked any of the Ranger maps, yet anyway, but I'd imagine the VE table has a bit more resolution and these days, ECU's are always in closed loop and can keep the the AFR pretty close to target, which is probably richer than I'd run on a tune, anyway.

Many of the newer cars I tune, for example (not the only example) a GT-R, you can add downpipes and intakes and the car is not going to destroy itself. It actually runs commanded AFR, however, in tuning, I can manipulate, boost, timing, VE & MAF, and commanded fuel to get good, safe power.


I know the Subaru game... Aside from owning one for awhile, I have been tuning them for a long time. They still blow up easily.

Again, I still recommend a proper, not OTS, tune.

 

[Ranger2020zoomzoom]

Tuning is a bit better than the days of GD Subaru's (and any EJ Subaru at that). Although I do agree that you'd want to tune for a downpipe, it's not quite the same as it used to be in erratic boost control, boost creep, and potentially running lean. I haven't looked any of the Ranger maps, yet anyway, but I'd imagine the VE table has a bit more resolution and these days, ECU's are always in closed loop and can keep the the AFR pretty close to target, which is probably richer than I'd run on a tune, anyway.

Many of the newer cars I tune, for example (not the only example) a GT-R, you can add downpipes and intakes and the car is not going to destroy itself. It actually runs commanded AFR, however, in tuning, I can manipulate, boost, timing, VE & MAF, and commanded fuel to get good, safe power.


I know the Subaru game... Aside from owning one for awhile, I have been tuning them for a long time. They still blow up easily.

Again, I still recommend a proper, not OTS, tune.

Thank you so much for the response! Yeah it’s totally true about the OTS tune. Has me worried a bit not even gonna lie.

 

[Ranger2020zoomzoom]

10k miles with my SPD dp. Not one issue

Did you have to do the defouler mod or do you have a tune? Are you worried at all about radiant heat from the DP?

 

[D Fresh]

Tuning is a bit better than the days of GD Subaru's (and any EJ Subaru at that). Although I do agree that you'd want to tune for a downpipe, it's not quite the same as it used to be in erratic boost control, boost creep, and potentially running lean. I haven't looked any of the Ranger maps, yet anyway, but I'd imagine the VE table has a bit more resolution and these days, ECU's are always in closed loop and can keep the the AFR pretty close to target, which is probably richer than I'd run on a tune, anyway.

Many of the newer cars I tune, for example (not the only example) a GT-R, you can add downpipes and intakes and the car is not going to destroy itself. It actually runs commanded AFR, however, in tuning, I can manipulate, boost, timing, VE & MAF, and commanded fuel to get good, safe power.


I know the Subaru game... Aside from owning one for awhile, I have been tuning them for a long time. They still blow up easily.

Again, I still recommend a proper, not OTS, tune.

For sure. While ECUs and factory tuning have advanced I still wouldn't trust it

Personally, I don't trust many of the OTS tunes available. Even on a stock truck.

 

[Mustang2Ranger]

Nice! Okay cool, I threw my first code after about 15 miles. P0420, I’ll have to do the defouler. Did you do a tune after you installed yours? Thanks for the info !

I ran it for a few thousand miles with no code and no defouler mod. SPD said on the website it would not throw a code. Then I had saved for the tune eventually, and Livernois adjusted for it

 

[StezenW]

Did it require you to do the defouler trick or a tune to get rid of the CEL?

Tune adjustment from Livernois

 

[Grady]

Are you concerned at all about the heat that radiates off the new DP? I am worried about the coolant lines above the down pipe turbo area, also the transmission being cooked. Not sure if I like my down pipe. Does yours run super hot?

Header wrap, it works on down pipes also. That is what I did. Although performance wise you want as much heat to dissipate after the turbo as possible.

 

[Mrmonk7663]

@Andy ice little write up. Thank you. I was able to get my DP off just now in about an hour using your post as a guide (already had exhaust off) The initial torque needed to break the nuts is high. I used the harbor freight LONG 15mm wrench and it had enough length to make it fairly simple. The inner nut I used the deep well with extension and then used a step stool so I could get both hands on it. Bottom one I used wrench from the bottom.

 

[Travis9935]

Turns out you do not need to be tuned for exhaust mods. Via Livernois. They said it's a Speed density motor.. No need

 

[Superdannyboy]

There are 2 things that are driving me crazy.
1) I can't seem to disconnect the factory downpipe from the flex pipe
2) I can't disconnect the lower O2 sensor plastic connection

 

[Superdannyboy]

 

[808matt]

There are 2 things that are driving me crazy.
1) I can't seem to disconnect the factory downpipe from the flex pipe
2) I can't disconnect the lower O2 sensor plastic connection

1. the clamp or pulling them apart?

2. Not sure how to help you there. Mine came apart, it’s just a matter of finding that release button and leverage to pull apart

 

[Superdannyboy]

1. the clamp or pulling them apart?

2. Not sure how to help you there. Mine came apart, it’s just a matter of finding that release button and leverage to pull apart

Pulling the pipes apart lol.
I took the nut off the clamp it's loose, but boy oh boy the pipes are hard to pull apart.
I can disconnect the electric connection once I pull the pipes apart.

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