Rear rotors

[JasonTremor]

If one is on a third caliper, you might want to check the brake lines for any kinks/damage.

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[airline tech]

Going through issues with my rear brakes (again) right now. I'm on my 3rd drivers side rear caliper and pads and second rotor. My brake keeps hanging up causing excessive heat and premature pad wear. But it is intermitnet. Some days it totally fine, other days I get out after a drive and can smell buring brakes and the wheel itslef it very hot to the touch. I have had it apart looking for issues more times than I can count. Only the rear drivers side.

Wondering....on the back of the pads there are "dimples" one side has 2 about 2-3 inches apart the other has 1 dimple in the center.....is one for inside and one for outside?

I have not had my rears apart yet, but yes, I believe they are location specific.
But if you have the pads in the correct position and your park brake cable is not adjusted too tight.

Since you have a reoccurring issue, you might dig deeper.
I would try a full system bleed including the ABS Module

Since you had the system opened for the brake hose replacement, did you do a complete bleed including the ABS Module or just the left rear?

If thinking outside the box here and reading the operation of the EFB system operation.

My thought would be that if the L/Rear Wheel Speed sensor is inaccurate, then is could be holding brake pressure on the caliper, causing your reoccurring issue.
and it may be worth a look at the PID's. and this might explain the intermittent nature of your issue as well.

Another possibility is the Master Cylinder, but this would normally show on both sides of (Rear) or (Front) not just a single wheel.


Electronic Brake Force Distribution (EBD)

On initial application of the brake pedal, full pressure is applied to the rear brakes. The ABS module uses wheel speed sensor inputs to evaluate rear wheel slip. Once the rear wheel slip exceeds a predetermined threshold, the ABS module commands the HCU to close the appropriate isolation valves to hold the rear brake pressure constant while allowing the front brake pressure to build. This creates a balanced braking condition between the front and rear wheels. If the rear wheel slip continues and exceeds a second predetermined threshold, the ABS module commands the HCU to open the dump valves to decrease the rear brake pressure and allow the rear wheels to recover. A slight bump sensation may be felt in the brake pedal when EBD is active. If the ABS is disabled due to Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) being present in the ABS module, EBD continues to function unless the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are for wheel speed sensors or the HCU solenoid valves. When EBD is disabled, the ABS warning indicator, the red brake warning indicator and traction control indicator illuminate.

 

[Guardstang]

I'm in aftermarket auto parts and there is a problem happening now with brake pads. We started getting calls on warped rotors for warranty. Well it turns out new standards to reduce copper in brake pad formulas are still being perfected. Pads were leaving deposits on the rotors causing shudder. We just got a list of part numbers and date of manufacturer of pads we had in stock to send back to get them out of the system. I don't know if this is the OP's problem but it something we have been seeing and hope the manufacturers perfect the brake pad formulas to meet the new standards,

 

[SFB]

Have you considered aftermarket solutions?

If I was dealing with my 3rd repeat, I think I would toss OEM and switch to good name brand aftermarket. <insert whatever is a good aftermarket brand> Calipers, pads and rotors.



I smell burning brakes on my front driver side occasionally, But I'm still under warranty so I'm just gonna roll with it. Get it? Roll cause it's a wheel n-rotor... *Gets more coffeee*

I have had excellent results with aftermarket rotors on two of my previous cars, a 2012 Edge and a 2006 Escape. Bought Brembo rotors and pads and never had a warped rotor for as long as I owned them, both were over 100k when I sold them. My 2019 Ranger is in Today getting the rear brakes replaced at 50K miles, one of the rotors has slight warping. No pedal pulsing but slight shutter after driving for a period. Problem is once they warp they tend to repeat. Metal has memory and trimming is thinning them, increasing the likelihood

 

[9zero1790]

so on same topic how warm should the rear rotors get? stopped a few days ago after some time on the highway. took a whiz and dumped out my big red that had a fly in it. some of the splash hit the rear right rotor and it sizzled instantly... maybe my brakes hanging too.

 

[Tom_C]

On my old toyota pickup the parking brake cable would hang up and cause the brakes to drag.

 

[Brian8256]

My 2nd set of rotors was aftermarket, with a coating to help protect from warping. Here I am less than 3000 miles later needing new ones. Brake pads were also new ceramic

 

[CO2Ranger]

Yes I understand an applied parking brake would screw up a rotor lol. I was wondering if anyone's heard if the parking brake jamming, causing this. No electric parking brake here.

Also the leather boot on that thing is so stiff it makes it sometimes creeps back up on its own. Shitty fabric.

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