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Poor Air Conditioning Performance - not a blend door issue

TJMarchand

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Good afternoon, I'm experiencing a problem where my A/C won't blow under 60 degrees in my 2019 Ranger. I my understanding is that most A/C systems should have temperatures around 30-45 degrees from the vent. I spent a couple of weeks driving around with a thermometer in the vent, and it would only dip below 60 on rare occasion.

I started by replacing the cabin air filter with a regular OEM Motorcraft replacement, which had no affect.
I used a gauge which read there was enough r-1234yf in the system and that it was not under charged.

Next step was to bring it to a dealer. They checked the blend doors and found they are working properly which is a relief. They evacuated the system, pulled out the correct amount of refrigerant and confirmed it was not leaking. They re-filled the system, and told me nothing was wrong. I paid the $290 diagnostic fee and am still warm during this heatwave.

The fan speeds all work, and I can notice a difference selecting all the way from heat to the lowest temperature. I have tried all the different settings, a/c on, off, max a/c, and switching between recirculate and outside air. When I press the a/c button, I can hear what I think is the compressor engaging?

Not sure why I do not have decent temperatures or enough power to cool the cab. Can anyone steer me in the right direction with this?
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Progeny2021

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45F to 48F on recirc out of a center vent, parked in a shaded area is ideal. Let a relatively cool vehicle idle for 5 minutes to achieve this. This is a universal standard for North American vehicles.

******************************************

Word of warning:

Many years ago, we owned a 1985 Chrysler LeBaron GTS, bought new. Cool weather when we bought it, so didn't notice the HVAC deficiency until warm weather arrived. Dealer stated unit worked properly, correct refrigerant charge, high/low pressures and outlet temps. Even showed us our car parked in the service area with fogged windows and 46F blasting from the center HVAC vent. Can't argue with the obvious.

Took GTS to an independent auto HVAC shop and they knew right away what the issue was. Chrysler had installed defective a/c clutch cycling switches that 'short cycled' when the vehicle was underway with constantly varying compressor loads. Shop stated Chrysler was well aware of the situation.

Solution? Shop had a convenient fix already on hand as he had already installed several in late model Chrysler products. An adjustable, progressive clutch cycling switch that was an exact fit - worked properly after a bit of adjustment, as expected. Fortunately, this was our only serious complaint with the car - many good memories.

$100+ parts and labor as I recall - dealer stated Chrysler would not reimburse us, neither did the extended warranty (non Mopar) we bought - our first and last until we purchased the Ford PremiumCare contract for Ranger this past April.
 

AzScorpion

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I'm not sure but it's possible that the heater box is warped. If it is the air won't be circulating through the system properly and would be "choking" the hvac system. This is a common problem (the warping) in the 2019's then the blend door usually fails.
 
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TJMarchand

TJMarchand

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i know you said you changed the cabin air filter, but did you also verify theres no other blockages in the air system at all? mouse nests or anything?

looking online, have you performed a test like this?
it gives you expected temps for OAT and humidty values. because obviously a super hot humid day isn't going to get you the lowest temp on the ac

https://autoacrepair1.com/how-cold-should-my-ac-be-at-the-vent-in-my-car/
Great chart, right now it's 50% humidity and about 95, so it does appear to be functioning according to that. Certainly no other obvious blockages, vents by the windshield are clear and no mice homes / debris.
45F to 48F on recirc out of a center vent, parked in a shaded area is ideal. Let a relatively cool vehicle idle for 5 minutes to achieve this. This is a universal standard for North American vehicles.

******************************************

Word of warning:

Many years ago, we owned a 1985 Chrysler LeBaron GTS, bought new. Cool weather when we bought it, so didn't notice the HVAC deficiency until warm weather arrived. Dealer stated unit worked properly, correct refrigerant charge, high/low pressures and outlet temps. Even showed us our car parked in the service area with fogged windows and 46F blasting from the center HVAC vent. Can't argue with the obvious.

Took GTS to an independent auto HVAC shop and they knew right away what the issue was. Chrysler had installed defective a/c clutch cycling switches that 'short cycled' when the vehicle was underway with constantly varying compressor loads. Shop stated Chrysler was well aware of the situation.

Solution? Shop had a convenient fix already on hand as he had already installed several in late model Chrysler products. An adjustable, progressive clutch cycling switch that was an exact fit - worked properly after a bit of adjustment, as expected. Fortunately, this was our only serious complaint with the car - many good memories.

$100+ parts and labor as I recall - dealer stated Chrysler would not reimburse us, neither did the extended warranty (non Mopar) we bought - our first and last until we purchased the Ford PremiumCare contract for Ranger this past April.
I am hoping to get as low as 45, after letting it sit in the parking lot for 10 minutes it's still only 60. Thermometer didn't budge at all. I must admit I do not know how to test a cycling switch, I may have to attempt another shop for this. I do not really trust the dealer I just brought my truck to.
I'm not sure but it's possible that the heater box is warped. If it is the air won't be circulating through the system properly and would be "choking" the hvac system. This is a common problem (the warping) in the 2019's then the blend door usually fails.
Understood, I do not have any clicking noises and can feel the temperature change from hot to cold, I don't really know if that has any bearing on the situation.
 


Progeny2021

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Great chart, right now it's 50% humidity and about 95, so it does appear to be functioning according to that. Certainly no other obvious blockages, vents by the windshield are clear and no mice homes / debris.

I am hoping to get as low as 45, after letting it sit in the parking lot for 10 minutes it's still only 60. Thermometer didn't budge at all. I must admit I do not know how to test a cycling switch, I may have to attempt another shop for this. I do not really trust the dealer I just brought my truck to.

Understood, I do not have any clicking noises and can feel the temperature change from hot to cold, I don't really know if that has any bearing on the situation.
Is the HVAC set on high fan, Recirc and vehicle shaded?

My dumbazz son in law complained his perfectly functioning HVAC in a Ford Expedition wouldn't cool the vehicle properly with all of the doors open.... :(
 

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Great chart, right now it's 50% humidity and about 95, so it does appear to be functioning according to that. Certainly no other obvious blockages, vents by the windshield are clear and no mice homes / debris.

I am hoping to get as low as 45, after letting it sit in the parking lot for 10 minutes it's still only 60. Thermometer didn't budge at all. I must admit I do not know how to test a cycling switch, I may have to attempt another shop for this. I do not really trust the dealer I just brought my truck to.

Understood, I do not have any clicking noises and can feel the temperature change from hot to cold, I don't really know if that has any bearing on the situation.
You'll only hear the clicking noises when the blend door is about to break. That's when I heard it on mine and the very next day it didn't work. I'm wondering if the heater box itself is already warped causing the ac not to circulate throughout the hvac system?
 
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TJMarchand

TJMarchand

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Is the HVAC set on high fan, Recirc and vehicle shaded?

My dumbazz son in law complained his perfectly functioning HVAC in a Ford Expedition wouldn't cool the vehicle properly with all of the doors open.... :(
Yes, right now it's parked at work and I can ensure all 3 of those variables.

Poor guy, I've been there. Wondering why the house is warm with the kitchen windows left open since I forgot, ha.

You'll only hear the clicking noises when the blend door is about to break. That's when I heard it on mine and the very next day it didn't work. I'm wondering if the heater box itself is already warped causing the ac not to circulate throughout the hvac system?
I was hoping I could assume the dealer checked that out when I dropped it off, however if the box was warped, I suppose the only way to tell would be to take the whole dash out as if you were going to replace it?
 

AzScorpion

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Yes, right now it's parked at work and I can ensure all 3 of those variables.

Poor guy, I've been there. Wondering why the house is warm with the kitchen windows left open since I forgot, ha.


I was hoping I could assume the dealer checked that out when I dropped it off, however if the box was warped, I suppose the only way to tell would be to take the whole dash out as if you were going to replace it?
I'm pretty sure it is and John @Glocker would know as he just did one before quitting his job at a Ford dealership. I'm sure he'll see this and have much better info than all of us just speculating. lol
 
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TJMarchand

TJMarchand

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I'm pretty sure it is and John @Glocker would know as he just did one before quitting his job at a Ford dealership. I'm sure he'll see this and have much better info than all of us just speculating. lol
ha, @Glocker I would certainly appreciate your input on this.
Thank you to all posting, I appreciate any help I can get.
 

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ha, @Glocker I would certainly appreciate your input on this.
Thank you to all posting, I appreciate any help I can get.
So the blend door issue may still be happening. You might not be getting a blend door situation where the hot air is completely blocked off, and well, it's still blending hot air with the cold air to give you 60° air.

I've also seen a pressure switch bad in a BRAND NEW 2.3 Bronco AC system, and it was doing the same thing. Just something to consider, maybe?

As a side note...
Ouch! $290 diag fee? Actually, $290 isn't too bad considering they hooked up the machine too it also. But still, ouch!
 

Progeny2021

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So the blend door issue may still be happening. You might not be getting a blend door situation where the hot air is completely blocked off, and well, it's still blending hot air with the cold air to give you 60° air.

I've also seen a pressure switch bad in a BRAND NEW 2.3 Bronco AC system, and it was doing the same thing. Just something to consider, maybe?

As a side note...
Ouch! $290 diag fee? Actually, $290 isn't too bad considering they hooked up the machine too it also. But still, ouch!
You were charged a diag fee on the brand new Bronco or your 2019 Ranger?
 

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You were charged a diag fee on the brand new Bronco or your 2019 Ranger?
No! It wasn't my Bronco - it was a customer's Bronco that she had just purchased. And she wasn't charged anything for the AC issue.
 

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i know you said you changed the cabin air filter, but did you also verify theres no other blockages in the air system at all? mouse nests or anything?

looking online, have you performed a test like this?
it gives you expected temps for OAT and humidty values. because obviously a super hot humid day isn't going to get you the lowest temp on the ac

https://autoacrepair1.com/how-cold-should-my-ac-be-at-the-vent-in-my-car/
Here in Philippines both of my "Rangers" with the high humidity will freeze you out of the car if left on high. I have been impressed with the A/C systems.
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