Ranger_Rocks
Well-Known Member
Yall use funnels?
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Yall use funnels?
Very much soYes , are you judging us ???
I have this rude habit of popping the hood and checking the cap and dipstick before I drive away ?He'll probably keep your oil cap one of these days...?
Reminds me of these…I use a 10" wide mouth...that 5 quart can really flow...
Aviation oil is still in cans, so I still have a can opener in my toolbox.Reminds me of these…
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Push the oil can - yes, can - with your palm, onto the piercer to open it, pull it back, rotate the can about 10°, pierce it again, and let it flow.
Flashbacks!Reminds me of these…
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Push the oil can - yes, can - with your palm, onto the piercer to open it, pull it back, rotate the can about 10°, pierce it again, and let it flow.
Really, I don't know about the Ecoboost, but the 3.2 diesel has a pissy little threaded hole through which you have to pour 9.7 litres of oil - yes the diesel holds almost 10 litres. Trying to balance a 10 litre container above that hole which is also a fair way back and I have a front bar as well, and not make a mess is almost impossible without a funnel, and one that stay's put would be even better. I keep meaning to 3-D print a threaded one, I currently have a floppy one (funnel) which is annoying when you're trying to keep it as full as possible so you can hold that 10 kilo weight at arms length for the minimum amount of time.I won't argue on how nice those can be, but I feel this isn't needed on the Ranger
Was referring to the 2.3 since that is the only one I'm familiar with. As for the 3.2 I think I only delt with one from a transit and it was something else to say the least.Really, I don't know about the Ecoboost, but the 3.2 diesel has a pissy little threaded hole through which you have to pour 9.7 litres of oil - yes the diesel holds almost 10 litres. Trying to balance a 10 litre container above that hole which is also a fair way back and I have a front bar as well, and not make a mess is almost impossible without a funnel, and one that stay's put would be even better. I keep meaning to 3-D print a threaded one, I currently have a floppy one (funnel) which is annoying when you're trying to keep it as full as possible so you can hold that 10 kilo weight at arms length for the minimum amount of time.
Thanks for the info, that's useful to know if I do decide to make one.Was referring to the 2.3 since that is the only one I'm familiar with. As for the 3.2 I think I only delt with one from a transit and it was something else to say the least.
Thank you- I never knew about a Assenmacher funnel that would work with my Ranger. I bought an Assenmacher funnel (yellow #1042) for my WRX, and it really sped up the time it took for oil changes.
I now use my old yellow funnel for my Ranger- but underneath the car- I hold it tightly with one hand as I pull out the drain plug, and the fast exiting old oil hits the top of the funnel (and not my front suspension) and it directs the old oil down to the waiting drain pan. A glove might be needed to insulate your hand while holding the funnel if draining hot oil, but realize the funnel only has to be held for the initial gush of used oil.
Now if I can only better orchestrate those dang plastic splash guard rivets (#@%&*@!!).
I also had the Assenmacher funnel (yellow #1042) for my Forester, i was great asThank you- I never knew about a Assenmacher funnel that would work with my Ranger. I bought an Assenmacher funnel (yellow #1042) for my WRX, and it really sped up the time it took for oil changes.
I now use my old yellow funnel for my Ranger- but underneath the car- I hold it tightly with one hand as I pull out the drain plug, and the fast exiting old oil hits the top of the funnel (and not my front suspension) and it directs the old oil down to the waiting drain pan. A glove might be needed to insulate your hand while holding the funnel if draining hot oil, but realize the funnel only has to be held for the initial gush of used oil.
Now if I can only better orchestrate those dang plastic splash guard rivets (#@%&*@!!).