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Multiple DTCs no crank after ABS sensor service

OP
OP

BAMRanger

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You're trying to fix this truck without service info and without a Ford scan tool. You have very little chance of stumbling onto the cause of your problem.
Thanks for your reply. I disagree, but that's alright. Pretty sure we've got this issue narrowed down to an anti theft problem.

My thoughts, you have removed all memory by touching the battery cables together, you therefore removed the memory for the key authorization to allow a start. you can view live data PCM and look for this PID: PATSENABL- If it shows disabled then you will need to reprogram (2) keys, it requires 2. You will most likely need to use the Solus to do it, as you have wiped all memory from the BCM. All of those PIDs are for lost communication, shorts to grd etc, were generated, by touching the cables together.
The truck is equipped with KAM (Keep Alive Memory) so those powered modules picked it up as a short.
The Advance Trac is most likely due to the lost communication with the ABS Module, and or low battery.

Things to try.
Clear all codes and then perform Self-Test on BCM and PCM

Close Hood and All Doors, then attempt start (mainly the hood)

Although, I have not looked at the starter, but is it like an old school starter where you could put key to run position and use a remote start (tool) - (The push button type) , hook directly to the starter positive post and the (s) terminal from the switch, and this way you are bypassing the PATS system, at least in an old school vehicle this was the way to test if A/Theft was locking the starting out. Not sure on the Ranger, if the system will let you.

Reprogram 2 Keys using Scan Tool (The Solus) - I'm fairly certain this will fix it.
This could very well be it. Going to try this tomorrow morning, thanks for your input!
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DukeCanBuildit

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The dude doesn't even have a scan tool of his own. The only way he's following that advice is if @airline tech flys out there and fixes it himself.
Oh, and my buddy’s a cop, there’ll be a police escort as well.

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Blmpkn

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I've been bummed out that my 'shop' for all these years has been a shed.

I feel better now though... because at least my shop has an obd2 scanner.
 

Wings06j

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So many angry people in this thread. Sure glad this wasn't the first thread I saw on this forum. I probably wouldn't have come back.

OP - any scan tool you can get is better than none. Obviously the more expensive ones can tell you a lot more. Interested to hear what it ends up being.
 


OP
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So many angry people in this thread. Sure glad this wasn't the first thread I saw on this forum. I probably wouldn't have come back.

OP - any scan tool you can get is better than none. Obviously the more expensive ones can tell you a lot more. Interested to hear what it ends up being.
I am honestly not surprised. Trolls are a part of every forum community, just gotta learn to not feed them.

I should probably invest in a decent scanner at some point in the near future. Until then, I have buddy's that have access to these tools that I can rely on.

That being said, there is good news!
We have found our issue. As it turns out, a very small shard of plastic had chipped off the side of the ABS module, and lodged itself between the two bottom pins of the module side of the connector. This kept the plug for the ABS module from seating properly, causing the no start condition. Being in a very awkward location to inspect, this was not an obvious issue. We found it by chance, while revising the pins on the module to make sure nothing had been upset there. It had been removed for testing, as our initial issues were from the ABS system.

Bottom line, we got the shard out and seated the connector properly and the car came back to life. The initial ABS and Hill start assist faults have also been cleared.

I have to say, I am not sure an ODB2 scanner would have found that piece of plastic. Not sure your average 'professional' ford technician would have either. That's just my opinion, though.

Thank you to all who took the time to drop some knowledge. I greatly appreciate it.

To the rest, hope you don't lose too much sleep over this, I'd be crushed.
 

seasprite

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Glad you got to run ?
Strange the ABS would cause a no start but I don't have service info for the starting circuit.
In a way the scanner did tell you, you had an active code for the ABS module.
 

airline tech

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Glad you found it, sometimes a simple job gets elevated into a major oh crap what now, I find it best to walk away, regroup, retrace your steps you've taken and if need be, get a second set of eyes on the problem, and you just proved retracing your steps resolved the issue, as a fellow wrench turner I fully understand situation you were in, just imagine a plane full of passengers staring out the concourse window watching you when things like that happen when all they want to do is board the aircraft.
 

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Outstanding job and followup. I've found that like you, retracing all my steps with a fresh set of eyes on any issue often leads to finding small issues that seemed to lead to larger issues, good job, nothing worse than a several thousand dollar vehicle that's become a boat anchor even short term.
 

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Jason B

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I'm glad you figured it out to something as simple as an errant piece of plastic.
But you should still invest in a scan tool for future use. I have the OBDLink MX+ which is a wireless blue tooth you use with a phone. It's about $110 and will scan ABS and other modules and even has data logging. And the MX+ can be used on multiple vehicles, many others allow only 1 vehicle, then you have to pay extra for different makes. If used my MX+ on my 99 B4000, my mom's 2011 Volvo and my brothers 2015 Silverado. Sure, it doesn't have all the capabilities of the deep scan of professional shop scanners, but it doesn't have the price tag either.
 

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On modern cars, NEVER short the positive and negative cables even when not connected to the battery. If you want to discharge the system, you should do so with a resistor as to not "shock" discharge the system.
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