Move gear to neutral w/o engine power.

[Motorpsychology]

How do you mean? If my torque wrench was correct or possibly the bolt was bad I’d imagine I wouldn’t of had an issue.

For lower torque values, 10-20 lb ft/13-27Nm use a lower capacity torque wrench, like a 10- to75-80 lb ft rating. The monsters with ratings starting at 20- up to 150-250-lb ft aren't very sensitive at lower torque settings, and may not click soon enough.

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[Frenchy]

For lower torque values, 10-20 lb ft/13-27Nm use a lower capacity torque wrench, like a 10- to75-80 lb ft rating. The monsters with ratings starting at 20- up to 150-250-lb ft aren't very sensitive at lower torque settings, and may not click soon enough.

He was using a torque wrench in that area and you see what happened.

 

[EJH]

Also just out of curiosity, anyone have any torqure wrenches they recommend I was using a harbor freight click one, will only be using that one on wheels from now on. I was looking at at the split beam from tekton. I like their other tools but never used their torque wrench.

Tekton. I have three different size torque wrenches from them. All are great.

Well, truck is at dealer after waiting 6 hours to get AAA To at least give me an estimate. Wish me luck that it’s just an extraction and not a whole new pan. I anticipate this being a very expensive learning experience. Maybe it will save someone else from the same headache caused for placing total faith on a torque wrench. Ended up not even paying through aaa as it was cheaper to pay direct. Tow truck driver/owner operates a local tow business near me. I also learned that my insurance gives reimbursements from tows anywhere to dealership/recognized mechanic without a distance cap. Will be going that route next time. Easy to schedule myself instead of dealing with AAA.

The Subaru dealer over-torqued or cross-threaded a drain pan bolt a few years ago on one of my wife's Crosstreks. They replaced the drain pan. I don't think it was very costly on their end, and the oil change only took slightly longer than usual. I now use Fomoto valves on both Subarus. I'll switch to them on the Ranger some day.

 

[Trustable]

Well good news, they were able to extract the bolt and put a new one in!! I had them change the oil filter and fill it up with motor craft. I am going to pick it up in a bit. Thank you all for the suggestions and help.

 

[airline tech]

For lower end torque values, it is better to use a (Inch-Lb) torque wrench, at 240 in lbs (20 Ft) you will feel the click better than a (Ft Lb) wrench because you are at the higher end of the torque scale.
You also have the length factor of the T/Wrench, a ft lb (3/8 or 1/2 Dr) will be longer than the (in lb) with 1/4 dr.
This is why I use a (In-Lb) wrench for any low torque values a Ft Lb can be used BUT you have to use finger or hand tight method then use the wrench using very light pressure to feel the click, if you use a normal pressure, you will overcome the click and NEVER feel it.
This method is learned after using T/Wrenches on a daily basis.

 

[Trustable]

For lower end torque values, it is better to use a (Inch-Lb) torque wrench, at 240 in lbs (20 Ft) you will feel the click better than a (Ft Lb) wrench because you are at the higher end of the torque scale.
You also have the length factor of the T/Wrench, a ft lb (3/8 or 1/2 Dr) will be longer than the (in lb) with 1/4 dr.
This is why I use a (In-Lb) wrench for any low torque values a Ft Lb can be used BUT you have to use finger or hand tight method then use the wrench using very light pressure to feel the click, if you use a normal pressure, you will overcome the click and NEVER feel it.
This method is learned after using T/Wrenches on a daily basis.

Thanks for the advice. I am looking into buying an inch/lbs 1/4 wrench. While I may be hesitant to touch the drain plug on the ranger for a bit there are lots of uses I have for low torque fasteners.

 

[Blmpkn]

Using a torque wrench on things like drains is an example of extreme over thinking imo.

I've never used a torque wrench on a drain.. and never stripped, snapped, or had one leak/back out. Same with sparkplugs.. lugnuts.. suspension components..

Putting main caps on? yes. Bolting down an intake on a v8? Yes. Headers? Yes. Super basic maintenance items? completely unnecessary.


Like Frenchy said.. the German spec is more than gud enough.

 

[airline tech]

Using a torque wrench on things like drains is an example of extreme over thinking imo.

I've never used a torque wrench on a drain.. and never stripped, snapped, or had one leak/back out. Same with sparkplugs.. lugnuts.. suspension components..

Putting main caps on? yes. Bolting down an intake on a v8? Yes. Headers? Yes. Super basic maintenance items? completely unnecessary.


Like Frenchy said.. the German spec is more than gud enough.

True, to an extent, but for me and working aviation for 30 years it becomes part of job without a second thought, every part replaced on an aircraft that is secured with a bolt or screw has a torque spec, and when you sign the Logbook, you are certifying the aircraft is airworthy and the maintenance performed was done per the AMM. If you falsify documents, you face fines and or imprisonment and or lose your license, this is all driven by the FAA.

 

[Trustable]

Using a torque wrench on things like drains is an example of extreme over thinking imo.

I've never used a torque wrench on a drain.. and never stripped, snapped, or had one leak/back out. Same with sparkplugs.. lugnuts.. suspension components..

Putting main caps on? yes. Bolting down an intake on a v8? Yes. Headers? Yes. Super basic maintenance items? completely unnecessary.


Like Frenchy said.. the German spec is more than gud enough.

i think the reason I used the spec is because I just don’t have enough experience where I comfortably know when it’s good enough. Last thing I want is for it to start unthreading and losing oil. Thinking about it, I really only touch drain bolts once or twice a year, so I think that’s where the lack of confidence in my own ability to know when it’s tight enough comes from. I’ve broken my fair share of toliet flange bolts due to over tightening, so you think I would get the hint. As a side note, I’m pretty sure toilet flange bolts are made of glass with how easy they shatter.

 

[Michel Jeanneau]

Get your Fumoto ready for the next oil change, I've used it in my last two vehicles (subaru, BMW and my truck...no leaks, mon!), the valve arm seats in a notch and it's spring loaded; and the beauty is that with a piece of 3/8" hose attached you don't have to take out the skid plate to drain the oil!

 

[Billythekidd]

I did that on a Can-Am that I had... sheared the head off... surprisingly the part that was left in the pan just unscrewed with almost no effort since the head was gone.

 

[Trustable]

I did that on a Can-Am that I had... sheared the head off... surprisingly the part that was left in the pan just unscrewed with almost no effort since the head was gone.

They said it took just over an hour to get it out. I’m not sure how they got it out as there were no drill marks on the bolt, maybe some crazy angled pliers? Regardless I’m glad I’m not the only one whose done it.

 

[canyonslicker]

One thing I see missing in this thread is that torque specs are for DRY and clean threads for bolt/plug and nut/hole. The residual oil will easily allow an over torque condition. Also you should exercise the clicker type torque wrenches before use by clicking on a bolt that can handle the torque. That’s standard practice in cal labs before checking accuracy. I was a cal lab manager for 10 years. Trust me on this one.

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