RedDakooter05
Well-Known Member
Stop touching things man, lol. Just leave it as is.
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Very good point. Lowest is 10lbs so I figured it would be fine. When I’m looking for alternatives they either start higher or at 10ftlbs but only go to 80ftlbs. Have been talking to one of my buddies and he says he never torques down the drain plugs on fords to spec he had one break a while ago. I may actually just go with a valvomax from what @subquark said.For 3/8's drive I only rely on my Snap-On Digital Torque Wrench if I want to be specific on Torque. With a oil drain plug I use a regular ratchet and go German Spec(Good N Tight). Chances are that torque wrench didn't even sense at that low of a measurement and that is why it broke.
Assuming it is not cross threaded he could probably get away with a good reverse drill bitWell, that sucks, sorry to hear about your issue, I would guess sometime in that plugs history it may have been over torqued, or a quick lube place used a battery powered ratchet, Impact driver style to remove or install it.
At 20 Ft lbs. it should not even be close to shear point.
However, from someone who uses a T/Wrench regularly, 20 ft lbs will not be felt easily, if not paying attention you can over torque past 20 and not even notice it.
Plus, a cheap tool like Harbor Freight sells, may or may not be calibrated accurate, from someone who turns wrenches for a living, Harbor Freight tools are the ones you take to the grinder for a one-off modification, should you have a need and the 20k worth of tools still won't work for the job in progress. Do I have a few HF tools -Yes, but not the important ones like T/Wrenches.
German Torque as its widely known, works for some things in automotive., and it appears that may be the cause of the drain plug shearing off.
The drain plug will come out with using a drill bit and socket style easy out like these. This style is the best solution on the market for extractors.
This style allows for more torque/ bite and better tool control, you do not have to drill as deep as the other style either.
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This style works for low torque screws etc, but tend to snap and break off with any great amount of pressure, after you have had this happen a few times, and be forced to break out the diamond cutter to not only get the broken extractor out of the screw head plus the screw itself. You will never use this style again.
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Good to know thank you! I agree with you regarding HF tools, especially now. I keep a 3/8 set on hand for emergencies and the screwdrivers are fine. I thought the torque wrench would be more than good. I will definitely be switching to a higher end calibrated with proof torque wrench now. I did not know that about the extractors. I’ve tried using the stupid speed out sets on wood screws and they never work so I wasn’t sure what else worked well. At this point I’m not sure how comfortable I am with drilling in their but I will pick up a set for other bolts/stuff not on my truck. I was looking at the pic I have of the break and I may be able to use a small flathead to actually turn the bolt. I need to think more on it, helps that I’ve calmed down from when I initially snapped it.Well, that sucks, sorry to hear about your issue, I would guess sometime in that plugs history it may have been over torqued, or a quick lube place used a battery powered ratchet, Impact driver style to remove or install it.
At 20 Ft lbs. it should not even be close to shear point.
However, from someone who uses a T/Wrench regularly, 20 ft lbs will not be felt easily, if not paying attention you can over torque past 20 and not even notice it.
Plus, a cheap tool like Harbor Freight sells, may or may not be calibrated accurate, from someone who turns wrenches for a living, Harbor Freight tools are the ones you take to the grinder for a one-off modification, should you have a need and the 20k worth of tools still won't work for the job in progress. Do I have a few HF tools -Yes, but not the important ones like T/Wrenches.
German Torque as its widely known, works for some things in automotive., and it appears that may be the cause of the drain plug shearing off.
The drain plug will come out with using a drill bit and socket style easy out like these. This style is the best solution on the market for extractors.
This style allows for more torque/ bite and better tool control, you do not have to drill as deep as the other style either.
![]()
This style works for low torque screws etc, but tend to snap and break off with any great amount of pressure, after you have had this happen a few times, and be forced to break out the diamond cutter to not only get the broken extractor out of the screw head plus the screw itself. You will never use this style again.
![]()
yeah exactly. I’m leaning towards bad bolt possibly as it didn’t feel even close to 20 when it snapped.
Well, that sucks, sorry to hear about your issue, I would guess sometime in that plugs history it may have been over torqued, or a quick lube place used a battery powered ratchet, Impact driver style to remove or install it.
At 20 Ft lbs. it should not even be close to shear point.
However, from someone who uses a T/Wrench regularly, 20 ft lbs will not be felt easily, if not paying attention you can over torque past 20 and not even notice it.
Plus, a cheap tool like Harbor Freight sells, may or may not be calibrated accurate, from someone who turns wrenches for a living, Harbor Freight tools are the ones you take to the grinder for a one-off modification, should you have a need and the 20k worth of tools still won't work for the job in progress. Do I have a few HF tools -Yes, but not the important ones like T/Wrenches.
German Torque as its widely known, works for some things in automotive., and it appears that may be the cause of the drain plug shearing off.
The drain plug will come out with using a drill bit and socket style easy out like these. This style is the best solution on the market for extractors.
This style allows for more torque/ bite and better tool control, you do not have to drill as deep as the other style either.
![]()
This style works for low torque screws etc, but tend to snap and break off with any great amount of pressure, after you have had this happen a few times, and be forced to break out the diamond cutter to not only get the broken extractor out of the screw head plus the screw itself. You will never use this style again.
![]()
I bought a 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch drive torque wrench from HF took them to work(nuclear elec gen plant) checked calibration. They were within 2%. Also bought a Kmart brand beam torque wrench ~ 40 years ago......it was within 10%.......not saying they will all be this good, but......Well, that sucks, sorry to hear about your issue, I would guess sometime in that plugs history it may have been over torqued, or a quick lube place used a battery powered ratchet, Impact driver style to remove or install it.
At 20 Ft lbs. it should not even be close to shear point.
However, from someone who uses a T/Wrench regularly, 20 ft lbs will not be felt easily, if not paying attention you can over torque past 20 and not even notice it.
Plus, a cheap tool like Harbor Freight sells, may or may not be calibrated accurate, from someone who turns wrenches for a living, Harbor Freight tools are the ones you take to the grinder for a one-off modification, should you have a need and the 20k worth of tools still won't work for the job in progress. Do I have a few HF tools -Yes, but not the important ones like T/Wrenches.
German Torque as its widely known, works for some things in automotive., and it appears that may be the cause of the drain plug shearing off.
The drain plug will come out with using a drill bit and socket style easy out like these. This style is the best solution on the market for extractors.
This style allows for more torque/ bite and better tool control, you do not have to drill as deep as the other style either.
![]()
This style works for low torque screws etc, but tend to snap and break off with any great amount of pressure, after you have had this happen a few times, and be forced to break out the diamond cutter to not only get the broken extractor out of the screw head plus the screw itself. You will never use this style again.
![]()
If I remember correctly that drain plug is 15 metric, I use a box end 15 and when drain plug seats I just tug on wrench to tighten on down. That's all it needs. I am very OCD about those things and using a torque wrench for that is something I don't do.Hello,
Was changing my oil today went to torque drain plug and it snapped before it hit the recommended spec 20ftlbs from ford. I have no interest in fighting ford on this as they won’t care and how will I prove it. The head is snapped off and probably could be gotten with a screw extractor. I am way to nervous to do that in case I make it worse so am having it towed to dealership with aaa. Dealership apt is next Friday but they said they may be able to get to it sooner. They were the earliest as well, next earliest was end of November. Being my only vehicle with no family near this is a shitty situation. But enough of the pity party, anyone know how to shift to neutral w/o engine power? Won’t shift with accessory and i am not sure if aaa knows how? Not sure as I’ve never needed a tow. I have plastered the inside of car with signs so the techs don’t start it by mistake as well.
I think it was a bit more than just the head, here’s a pic. Am hoping it’s not a bigger issue besides an extraction.That is a straight thread, not tapered. The head of the bolt tightens against the gasket. If the head snapped off you've got bigger problems than just the plug. Pan threads are buggered.
Good luck.
Yup skid plate and plug are 15mm.If I remember correctly that drain plug is 15 metric, I use a box end 15 and when drain plug seats I just tug on wrench to tighten on down. That's all it needs. I am very OCD about those things and using a torque wrench for that is something I don't do.