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Misfire on Cyl 1

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GTGallop

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Got to Service, then warranty.
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Got it! Thank you. I was in the right place but it's page 20 at the bottom of the page but if you look at the PDF Page Count it's Page 25. I wasn't finding it because I'm 5 pages off.
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That seems pretty crappy - 200 miles out of warranty on an item that should not have failed.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
I need to issue a correction - 2,000 miles. But still...
 

Max Crafter

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Whats the consensus on the Fuel Injection Induction cleaning and top end decarbonization that they "reccomend" every 25,000 miles for $347.95. Skip? Do?
I would ask to see a borescope of the aforementioned buildup that this cleaning is meant to remove.
If its there, then yes, go for it.
It seems to be a good price for what they have to do. Plus it will give others badly needed info on whether they should look into it or not.
 

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Curious why the coil would be covered outside of the 3yr/36k warranty and if it is what is it's coverage. I agree it should be though, but will it be. Not thrilled when you see posts indicating that Ford also only covers certain emissions components for 2yr/24k (federally mandated) less than the bumper to bumper stuff, but likely no different from most other makers. Not ragging on Ford as I've had nothing break on mine in over 3 yrs of ownership except push pins when changing oil.

If the vehicle is California emissions equipped the coil would be covered under 8yr 80k, living in New York all new cars sold meet California emissions standards but being a vehicle from AZ no go on emissions warranty as it does not exist.
 
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I would ask to see a borescope of the aforementioned buildup that this cleaning is meant to remove.
If its there, then yes, go for it.
It seems to be a good price for what they have to do. Plus it will give others badly needed info on whether they should look into it or not.
For that price I'm betting it is a chemical treatment. They never do a bore scope. Just spray it in the intake and call it good.
 


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If the vehicle is California emissions equipped the coil would be covered under 8yr 80k, living in New York all new cars sold meet California emissions standards but being a vehicle from AZ no go on emissions warranty as it does not exist.
thanks, good to know as I'm in CO as CARB was adopted here, but I doubt the CARB would cover a diagnostic charge ($200) . One way to diagnose is to swap the coil where the misfire occurs with another cylinder and if it relocates the misfire you have your culprit, but I suspect those coils are mostly very reliable nowadays . Still they do sit atop a hot cylinder head and wouldn't be surprised if AZ heat might shorten their life. The dealer markup on the coil.......criminal.
 

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If the vehicle is California emissions equipped the coil would be covered under 8yr 80k, living in New York all new cars sold meet California emissions standards but being a vehicle from AZ no go on emissions warranty as it does not exist.
Yes I see that now. Only major components are 8/80. Cat Converter, etc
 

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Having done the Fuel Induction / Injector Clean myself, Non-Professional through work

All it is is a modified and enhanced clean - The same as spraying carb cleaner in a carb

1. You spray a Throtle Body cleaner in and around the throttle plate, and wipe it down, however its difficult to get a good clean on the throttle plate without removal

2. Induction Clean - Hook up cleaning canister to a vacuum port and induce slowly the cleaning fluid via engine vacuum, this cleans upper intake air induction down to the valves
Note: It makes one heck of a Fog out of the exhaust and its important to induce the cleaning fluid slowly.

3. Fuel Rail and Injectors - Tap into the Fuel Rail - Service Port, some vehicles do not have this so you have to tap (Between the Fuel Filter and Fuel Line to Engine)

A. Remove Fuel Pump Relay and or Fuse , disable fuel pump

B. Using same Canister Tool with a fitting to adapt to the fuel rail / line and depending on the cleaning fluid - some are pre-mixed, but most are full strength, so you mix 50/50 Fuel/Cleaning Fluid into the canister. Pressurize canister with about 50-75 PSI shop air (Ranger Fuel Pressure-Running Specs)
Note: I would have to research exactly where the Ranger test port is, I think they use the High-Pressure Fuel Pump (Engine Bay)
Start engine and let it run until it dies, and I usually do a second run (If engine performance issues were the reason for the clean. (Rough Idle etc.)
You are now running the engine on the fuel / cleaner mix in the cannister, not the fuel tank supply
Depending on the canister size, depends on how long it will run, generally 5 to 10 minutes approx.

C. This cleaning service cleans the fuel rail and injectors and does the same thing as adding fuel additive/cleaner to the fuel tank, except more concentrated and immediate vs long term slow clean as you drive.

D. I made my own cleaning cannister -out of PCV Pipe, and the only issue is getting the correct fittings to adapt to different vehicles without the special kits, so since I have only used the canister for GM vehicles, I have a Test Port hose on it, and tap directly into the fuel rail.

Process for all about 20-30 minutes

My Thoughts:
I think the majority of this service is an upsell by the shops, its quick easy money.
Now if you have engine idle running issues, then it may help if the system is just dirty.
You can do it as preventive maintenance, but the cost is outrageous for it, it should be in the 75-100 dollar range for what they do and the time it takes to complete
 

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It's in the shop.
Powertrain warranty does not cover coils.

So by the time I get out of there I'm in for $477.39 for a spark plug coil.
Then $265.91 for a spark plug (that had better be all 4 of them).
And they want to do a Fuel Injection Induction cleaning $347.95 <== I might skip.

Currently waiting to call them and figure out what the root cause of the failure was. Because I'm not dropping $713.30 to $1061.25 without some good goddamn intel to go with it.
Ford does not recommend a normal induction cleaning as it tends to trash the turbos on an ecoboost.
 

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OP - sorry I was hoping to save you some money.

I would still send Ford a letter and ask for reimbursement that close to the end of warranty.
 
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Closing this one out a bit late...
Ford replaced the coil pack and all four spark plugs. It is not covered by the 8/80k emissions warranty. Only the cats and exhaust components are. The electronics and other bits are covered to 2/24k. They don't even make it to the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty.

Total for work was $780 (including oil change).

They did not do the upper engine and intake cleaning even though I asked for it. My Service Rep was a knuckle head. He was never available to take a call (I understand he's busy) but then never listened to his V-Mail before calling me back and rarely called me back. What ever...

Interesting to note though, he told me that the tech found Coil Pack 1 heavily corroded and bright orange with rust. Plug 1 matched. They asked if I was driving through high water over the hood. I responded no. I'd be surprised if the deepest water it's been in was deeper than the tread on the tires - on the BOTTOM not the top. He asked if I off road it. I said yes. It is a 4WD after all. Isn't that the point? He said well yeah but... I cut him off and said, I stick to trails that would qualify as dirt roads. No extreme wheeling. Just unpaved roads that are maintained.

Sine he was trying to pin it on me, I asked "what about the other coil packs? Were they corroded or rusty?" he said no - perfectly clean. So I asked, well if I was driving it in water wouldn't all of them be orange and gross?" He said yes. I asked about the possibility of a head gasket. He said they did compression and a leak down test. All with in spec and no loss of compression after 4 hours of sitting. So apparently the head gasket is fine.

I can't, for the life of me, figure out why #1 would have been exposed to that much moisture and persistent enough to cause it to fail especially on the top of the cylinder head where it is one of the warmer points on the engine where the dry AZ air and heat should have evaporated any moisture.

So the plan is:
I have a 2 year warranty on the coil pack. I have a 6/60K warranty on the engine / head gasket (if it does have an issue). Warranty went into service February of 2020. Means I have until 2026 on the power-train warranty or at my mileage rate about 1.5 more years (13k/yr). Gets me to about December of 2024. I don't trust this truck enough to keep it past then. Since it was in the shop, their sales team has been calling me non stop. I've had offers ranging from $31k to $38k to sell it to them. I might do it an then get another ranger to reset the clock on the warranty. Might hold out for a 6G Ranger. Might upgrade to an F-150. I need a little more interior space for gear. We'll see. Either way, I was hoping to give this to my daughter when I was done, but I don't think that's going to happen now.

Thanks to all for the information, support, help, and comments.
 

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Closing this one out a bit late...
Ford replaced the coil pack and all four spark plugs. It is not covered by the 8/80k emissions warranty. Only the cats and exhaust components are. The electronics and other bits are covered to 2/24k. They don't even make it to the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty.

Total for work was $780 (including oil change).

They did not do the upper engine and intake cleaning even though I asked for it. My Service Rep was a knuckle head. He was never available to take a call (I understand he's busy) but then never listened to his V-Mail before calling me back and rarely called me back. What ever...

Interesting to note though, he told me that the tech found Coil Pack 1 heavily corroded and bright orange with rust. Plug 1 matched. They asked if I was driving through high water over the hood. I responded no. I'd be surprised if the deepest water it's been in was deeper than the tread on the tires - on the BOTTOM not the top. He asked if I off road it. I said yes. It is a 4WD after all. Isn't that the point? He said well yeah but... I cut him off and said, I stick to trails that would qualify as dirt roads. No extreme wheeling. Just unpaved roads that are maintained.

Sine he was trying to pin it on me, I asked "what about the other coil packs? Were they corroded or rusty?" he said no - perfectly clean. So I asked, well if I was driving it in water wouldn't all of them be orange and gross?" He said yes. I asked about the possibility of a head gasket. He said they did compression and a leak down test. All with in spec and no loss of compression after 4 hours of sitting. So apparently the head gasket is fine.

I can't, for the life of me, figure out why #1 would have been exposed to that much moisture and persistent enough to cause it to fail especially on the top of the cylinder head where it is one of the warmer points on the engine where the dry AZ air and heat should have evaporated any moisture.

So the plan is:
I have a 2 year warranty on the coil pack. I have a 6/60K warranty on the engine / head gasket (if it does have an issue). Warranty went into service February of 2020. Means I have until 2026 on the power-train warranty or at my mileage rate about 1.5 more years (13k/yr). Gets me to about December of 2024. I don't trust this truck enough to keep it past then. Since it was in the shop, their sales team has been calling me non stop. I've had offers ranging from $31k to $38k to sell it to them. I might do it an then get another ranger to reset the clock on the warranty. Might hold out for a 6G Ranger. Might upgrade to an F-150. I need a little more interior space for gear. We'll see. Either way, I was hoping to give this to my daughter when I was done, but I don't think that's going to happen now.

Thanks to all for the information, support, help, and comments.
There is a TSB on this problem of water in the spark plug wells. It has to do with rain water running through the cowling and onto the top of the engine.
 

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Rp930

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There is a TSB on this problem of water in the spark plug wells. It has to do with rain water running through the cowling and onto the top of the engine.
OP - It wouldn’t hurt to write Ford a quick note, no drama, and ask for reimbursement and this TSB to be carried out at no cost. A few minutes and a stamp can’t hurt. The worst that can happen is they say no.

The head gasket is a non issue and I still don’t understand why you are worried about it.
 
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OP - It wouldn’t hurt to write Ford a quick note, no drama, and ask for reimbursement and this TSB to be carried out at no cost. A few minutes and a stamp can’t hurt. The worst that can happen is they say no.

The head gasket is a non issue and I still don’t understand why you are worried about it.
Well seeing the TSB posted above, I'm much less worried about it.
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