Misfire on Cyl 1

GTGallop

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Misfire at 4500 RPM Cylinder 1
CEL light illuminates and blinks while issue occurs but then goes out when RPM drops back under 4500.

Around town easy driving there is no issue with gentle acceleration.
Getting on freeway produces error accompanied by violent shaking until gas pedal is backed off of and RPM's fall.
Does not occur when manually downshifting into 2nd gear to force 4500 RPM and does not occur when revving in park. Seems to be that "under load" is a factor.

Any ideas?
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Doc

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Misfire at 4500 RPM Cylinder 1
CEL light illuminates and blinks while issue occurs but then goes out when RPM drops back under 4500.

Around town easy driving there is no issue with gentle acceleration.
Getting on freeway produces error accompanied by violent shaking until gas pedal is backed off of and RPM's fall.
Does not occur when manually downshifting into 2nd gear to force 4500 RPM and does not occur when revving in park. Seems to be that "under load" is a factor.

Any ideas?
Pull the spark plug ?
 

GhostStrykre

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Is cylinder 1 the one closest to the cabin? If so then Iā€™ll definitely +1 for guessing an issue with the spark plug or coil. I remember folks having water leak down through the 2 piece cover between the hood and windshield that dropped onto the top of the engine.
 


Trigganometry

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Looks like youā€™re on the cusp of warranty expiration unless you got an extended. Could be water intrusion, bad coil pack. If itā€™s water and dealer sees it might get a collector engine cover under a TSB fix
 

JasonTremor

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It is early mice season. Might give it a visual once over inspection for any chewed wires.
 
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Superdannyboy

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I had a misfire and same thing happened. I didn't torque down my spark plugs so one vibrated enough that the electrode broke off. Replaced it and no problems.
 

Cabose-1

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I would check cylinder 1 coil as well. Water leaks on the engine like to old 5cyl chevy colorados and the old escapes. Look, at my engine. Parked on a downhill slope, you can see where the water dripped on the engine. Not all have this problem. I do :( we went about 4 months little to no rain. So the engine was nice and dusty. The rainstorm came and you can see were the water dripped.

20230329_152222.jpg
 
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GTGallop

GTGallop

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Engine bay is clean. A little AZ dust but no water evidence and no chewing.

It has been producing a little more exhaust moisture in the morning on start up. That shows up as steam from the pipe and a dribble of water on the ground. Odd for Arizona because "it's a dry heat" but then we have been living with perpetual rain out here for a while as an atmospheric river has given us TONS of storms and showers over the last few weeks. Lakes are rising and our snow pack is at 156%. So my assumption has been that the tail pipe moisture is normal for the conditions.

Now I'm suspecting head gasket after reading the comments here.
36,000 Mile Bumper to Bumper is expired but I believe I have a 60,000 Mile Power Train warranty.
 

GhostStrykre

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Engine bay is clean. A little AZ dust but no water evidence and no chewing.

It has been producing a little more exhaust moisture in the morning on start up. That shows up as steam from the pipe and a dribble of water on the ground. Odd for Arizona because "it's a dry heat" but then we have been living with perpetual rain out here for a while as an atmospheric river has given us TONS of storms and showers over the last few weeks. Lakes are rising and our snow pack is at 156%. So my assumption has been that the tail pipe moisture is normal for the conditions.

Now I'm suspecting head gasket after reading the comments here.
36,000 Mile Bumper to Bumper is expired but I believe I have a 60,000 Mile Power Train warranty.
Head gasket is under the powertrain warranty for sure, but is your coolant level low? Pull the coil and spark plug and inspect, then double check that coolant level. that's all the further i could personally go (i'm not much more than an entry level home mechanic) before i'd just have to pay the diagnostic fee and let the dealer inspect it.

I'm not 100% sure, but the CEL/Cylinder 1 error would be in the computer log, right? So if the dealer inspected they could see it, i believe. best of luck!
 
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GTGallop

GTGallop

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Dropped it off in the capable hands of Jacob Harwood at Peoria Ford yesterday.
 

Rp930

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Engine bay is clean. A little AZ dust but no water evidence and no chewing.

It has been producing a little more exhaust moisture in the morning on start up. That shows up as steam from the pipe and a dribble of water on the ground. Odd for Arizona because "it's a dry heat" but then we have been living with perpetual rain out here for a while as an atmospheric river has given us TONS of storms and showers over the last few weeks. Lakes are rising and our snow pack is at 156%. So my assumption has been that the tail pipe moisture is normal for the conditions.

Now I'm suspecting head gasket after reading the comments here.
36,000 Mile Bumper to Bumper is expired but I believe I have a 60,000 Mile Power Train warranty.
Why would you jump directly to head gasket? I havenā€™t heard of a single Ranger head gasket failure. Likely coil and or spark plug.
 
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GTGallop

GTGallop

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Why would you jump directly to head gasket? I havenā€™t heard of a single Ranger head gasket failure. Likely coil and or spark plug.
Good question and normally I wouldn't. But from what I read on this site primarily people have replaced the coil and plug initially due to water damage. I live in AZ and there is rarely any water here and things dry out fast. I also don't drive in high water when off road.

So I need a moisture source to justify the corrosion that people have found that caused the issue. Since I don't have a lot of ambient moisture to explain the corrosion, and I seem to have an increase in visible light white steamy looking exhaust, that means the moisture needs to be coming form somewhere in the engine.

In the other threads, I see where there was an attempt to replace turbos, throttle bodies, add engine covers, etc but ultimately it came back to a leak in the head gasket. I have no way to diagnose that beyond observation and reading forum posts so I'm thinking / leaning that way. If it isn't the HG, then where else would water be coming from? Mind you in the quantity needed to do in the plug and coil pack?

I'm certainly open to other suggestions and not at all set on the HG being the issue. But in my extremely limited experience it seems to be the most plausible explanation.
 

Superdannyboy

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Good question and normally I wouldn't. But from what I read on this site primarily people have replaced the coil and plug initially due to water damage. I live in AZ and there is rarely any water here and things dry out fast. I also don't drive in high water when off road.

So I need a moisture source to justify the corrosion that people have found that caused the issue. Since I don't have a lot of ambient moisture to explain the corrosion, and I seem to have an increase in visible light white steamy looking exhaust, that means the moisture needs to be coming form somewhere in the engine.

In the other threads, I see where there was an attempt to replace turbos, throttle bodies, add engine covers, etc but ultimately it came back to a leak in the head gasket. I have no way to diagnose that beyond observation and reading forum posts so I'm thinking / leaning that way. If it isn't the HG, then where else would water be coming from? Mind you in the quantity needed to do in the plug and coil pack?

I'm certainly open to other suggestions and not at all set on the HG being the issue. But in my extremely limited experience it seems to be the most plausible explanation.
Post a picture of your coolant level, sir.
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