Lower Control Arm Removal - NOT going well.

[TannerVoss1231]

Using the instructions from this page:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/2019-ranger-technical-shop-manuals.1548/
(204-01B Front Suspension - 4WD)

The only info it gives for removal of the lower control arm is to undo the shock absorber nuts and then remove the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle before removing the control arm.

I had to order the special separator tool and even with that it just eventually won't push anymore. Is that really all I have to do and then undo the camber bolts to remove? It seems like the tension in the springs or something can still be dangerous, they still have some tension. I am just trying to replace some blown bushings.

It almost seems like I need to remove more of the suspension components - this is the second day in a row I have had to just reassemble and call it a day.

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[diesel924]

If the truck is in the air, there is no compression of the spring and it's captured by the strut. The instructions are correct. Are you saying the ball joint stud isn't popping out?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

In 2020, Ford switched to cast iron knuckles and the instructions being linked to are for a 2019 with aluminum knuckles, which separate easily from the upper and lower ball joints, without having to use a separater.

Tanner, you likely have a black, cast iron knuckle, yes? As well, you’re likely feeling some tension from the control arm bushings that results from the control arms being pushed into place and tightened to the knuckle - it will spring open when the ball joint finally lets go - this is normal.

It might also be tension from the anti-sway bar, especially if you have one front wheel on the floor while the other side is on a jack stand. Get both sides up in the air on jack stands - disconnect the anti-sway bar links from the knuckle if they continue to give you grief.

My best advice is to find a video on YouTube that shows how to change the front coilovers by disconnecting the lower control arm. They’re out there, somewhere but definitely worth the search. The video will likely feature an aluminum knuckle but the order of removing things and what to remove should be the same.

Good luck!

 

[Rp930]

Suspension work is not for amateurs. Know your limits.

 

[TannerVoss1231]

In 2020, Ford switched to cast iron knuckles and the instructions being linked to are for a 2019 with aluminum knuckles, which separate easily from the upper and lower ball joints, without having to use a separater.

Tanner, you likely have a black, cast iron knuckle, yes? As well, you’re likely feeling some tension from the control arm bushings that results from the control arms being pushed into place and tightened to the knuckle - it will spring open when the ball joint finally lets go - this is normal.

It might also be tension from the anti-sway bar, especially if you have one front wheel on the floor while the other side is on a jack stand. Get both sides up in the air on jack stands - disconnect the anti-sway bar links from the knuckle if they continue to give you grief.

My best advice is to find a video on YouTube that shows how to change the front coilovers by disconnecting the lower control arm. They’re out there, somewhere but definitely worth the search. The video will likely feature an aluminum knuckle but the order of removing things and what to remove should be the same.

Good luck!

I had to order the special separator that would fit - It took a lot of torque to get the initial separation.

I have quick-disconnect sway bar links and removed them while it was still on the ground.
I also removed the tie-rod connection.


I've just watched a video as recommended and there is certainly a lot missing in the instructions provided by that service manual. I'll give it another crack either late tonight or tomorrow.

I installed the 3.5" lift kit so I had all of this removed last year, I was hoping there was a way to do these bushings without having to remove everything but that doesn't seem to be the case.
As long as I don't have to remove the axle nut I guess I'll be happy at this point

 

[20XLRangerFraptor]

You really shouldn’t have to use any special separator. That knuckle just needs a couple hard whacks with hammer to bust loose the balljoint. I’d suggest to make sure the lower control arm bolts on the frame are loosened because if they are not it will hold the arm in tension from the bushings making you think the balljoint isn’t loose. You mentioned the initial separation… is that at the balljoint?

 

[TannerVoss1231]

You really shouldn’t have to use any special separator. That knuckle just needs a couple hard whacks with hammer to bust loose the balljoint. I’d suggest to make sure the lower control arm bolts on the frame are loosened because if they are not it will hold the arm in tension from the bushings making you think the balljoint isn’t loose. You mentioned the initial separation… is that at the balljoint?

Well damnit I definitely need to loosen those then. The initial separation was a REAL bitch, I was wondering if the tool was going to survive. But then there was tension that just wouldn't allow me to pop that ball joint all the way out

 

[Cmar]

Don't forget to mark the alignment adjuster position with paint, white out, or similar, before you loosen the bolt so you can put it back to something like acceptable before you get it re-aligned properly afterwards.

 

[TannerVoss1231]

Ok well I actually do have the steel knuckles.
I ended up having to remove the driveshaft from the knuckle as it was interfering with getting the knuckle off of the LCA.
However... I cannot see how on earth I am supposed to press the old bushings out. Maybe my mechanic was on to something saying they couldn't be replaced??
Shit! Supposed to be going on a wheeling camping trip tomorrow afternoon. Might be desperately trying to find control arms at dealership

 

[airline tech]

I am curious - did you find a source for the bushings only - as the Ford IPC's do not list them separately nor does the service manual list a R&R of them.
The IPC only lists the LCA as an assembly (inc Ball-Joint) for $330.00

Now most bushings can be pressed out - Hyd Press or a (C-Clamp) style press.
Hyd press is the best, I do not own one but have access to 2 if needed, most shops should have one and may do it for a small fee or pizza for the shop.
I did find the bushings only on - Rockauto local autoparts stores do not list them, so this may only be an on-line source part.

 

[TannerVoss1231]

I ordered them from jegs

 

[TannerVoss1231]

Alright well after a conversation with the parts department at the dealership... they are one piece and their schematic doesn't even show the bushing... So this has been a tremendous waste of time.

I am trying to find a replacement that is not going to cost me $1k, but most say "aluminum knuckle", mine is the steel knuckle. What difference does that make for the control arm?

 

[TannerVoss1231]

This just keeps getting weirder.
Removed the control arm to discover I was NOT going to be getting those bushings out with the equipment I have or possibly with any other equipment out there. Everyone I have talked to now says bushings are not replaceable.

Got everything installed again and drove it to the shop for alignment... and never heard a single clunk. We'll see what happens after it's squared away again

 

[TannerVoss1231]

And now this is the biggest mystery of my life.
It's back form Big-O and not making any noise or shuddering anymore. I don't know if I goofed something up last year on the lift install or if Big-O goofed up while doing the alignment (I was just told they were under new management because of issues).
So as of now I am not planning on replacing any more parts.
I have no idea what could have been loose. I had pulled everything BUT the control arms off and retightened to make sure, so I am just beyond confused

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

When you think of all RP the parts that had to be loosened or removed throughout the process, it isn’t too much of a stretch to think something was overlooked and that you’ve corrected it by re-torquing everything.

Didn’t this all start with you hearing some clunking and someone pinpointing it as the LCA?

Anyway, a clunk can come from the most unsuspecting places - I tried for the longest time to find one - turns out my short breaker bar slipped through a factory hole in the jack storage bin and was rolling around the floor under the passenger side storage bin.

Personally, I think your original clunk had something to do with your lift installation and got corrected this time around. At least, I hope it’s corrected.

I guess you’ll know in time. Let us know.

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