I'm an aftermarket wheel newb!

[Glocker]

I'm an aftermarket wheel newb, and I may be coming into a set of Black Rhino wheels soon. I've pretty much narrowed it down to two different style wheels from Black Rhino; the Armory and the Arsenal. Stage 3 motorsports put a set of the Armory wheels on their SEMA Ranger in 17x9.5 with a 6mm offset with BFG KO2 AT 285/70R17. Would I have any issues running that size wheel (17x9.5 w/ 6mm offset) with my Falken Wildpeak 275/72R17 tires? Would the Arsenal wheels even fit my truck at 17x9.5 with a -18 offset?

What is the offset on our stock wheels?

Help?
?

ETA: I'm gutted. It looks like my tires aren't going to fit on a 9.5" wide wheel. The wheels will probably get put up in storage until I wear my tires out. ?

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[Brett Fields]

I had the 18" black wheels. They're a +55 offset. I went to a +20 Fuel shok wheel. 285/70 r17 KO2'S.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Hey John,

I see in one of your showcase photos that your front crash bars are in place, so I’m guessing your rear bars are as well.

If you’re dead set on leaving them in, you‘ll have fewer choices when it comes to wheel offset and tire size. However, you’ll still be able to have a larger, more aggressive tire without any issues.

There are two main areas of rubbing to avoid:

• the knuckle
• the crash bar

With wider tires, there’s a risk of rubbing the knuckle. Easily remedied by wheel spacers on OEM wheels or a lower offset on aftermarket wheel. But you can only go so far with the thickness of a spacer or the reduction in offset before you start rubbing on the crash bars.

Our OEM wheels have a +55mm offset. As you go lower, your tires are pushed out further. Now, imagine your wheels are turned - then imagine pushing your tires out further away from the plane of your rotor - the tire is now being pushed toward the crash bars.

Here’s what it looks like - the greyed out tire in this pic is the new, lower offset. You’ll see how it‘s just fine when straight but how it is pushed into the crash bar when turned.

I have Fox 2.0 coilovers set at 2” and run 275/70R17s (32.2”) on +15mm offset wheels and had to loosen and angle the crash bars out of the way to avoid rubbing. It was still kind of close and if I’d gone lower, I would have definitely rubbed. I swapped in ReadyLIFT Anti-intrusion beams just to be sure.

The sweet spot for 32” tires and a 2” level, without removing crash bars, seems to be +25mm or higher offset. A +25mm offset places your tires 30mm (1.2”) further out.

If you’re fine removing crash bars, your possibilities go up.

www.tiresize.com has a great offset tool to help you see how offset changes from stock to aftermarket.

https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

PM me if this is all too much to take in - happy to help you navigate this John.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

I don't have a good head-on pic but this is 265/70/17 on 17x9 with a +20mm offset.

I wouldn't get a negative offset wheel unless you plan on running flares, but that's just me because I don't like the tires sticking out past the fender.

Also, congrats on the wheels!

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I don't have a good head-on pic but this is 265/70/17 on 17x9 with a +20mm offset.

I wouldn't get a negative offset wheel unless you plan on running flares, but that's just me because I don't like the tires sticking out past the fender.

Also, congrats on the wheels!

That’s a great setup Dennis! Not too wide, not too tall, not poking out too far, and it sure has “the look”. ?

I think you made that Taco owner cry just a bit.

 

[Dereku]

Its all about the right poke. Too much and you fit in with the crowd that runs 30 inch wheels with mud tires, too little and it will look stock.

 

[Bob902]

I don't have a good head-on pic but this is 265/70/17 on 17x9 with a +20mm offset.

I wouldn't get a negative offset wheel unless you plan on running flares, but that's just me because I don't like the tires sticking out past the fender.

Also, congrats on the wheels!

Nice parking job by the trash dumpster!

 

[Glocker]

So it's sounding like a -18 offset might work, but the +6 offset would probably be better. And my existing tire size may or may not be a problem on the 9.5" wide wheel.

 

[Glocker]

Hey John,

I see in one of your showcase photos that your front crash bars are in place, so I’m guessing your rear bars are as well.

If you’re dead set on leaving them in, you‘ll have fewer choices when it comes to wheel offset and tire size. However, you’ll still be able to have a larger, more aggressive tire without any issues.

There are two main areas of rubbing to avoid:

• the knuckle
• the crash bar

With wider tires, there’s a risk of rubbing the knuckle. Easily remedied by wheel spacers on OEM wheels or a lower offset on aftermarket wheel. But you can only go so far with the thickness of a spacer or the reduction in offset before you start rubbing on the crash bars.

Our OEM wheels have a +55mm offset. As you go lower, your tires are pushed out further. Now, imagine your wheels are turned - then imagine pushing your tires out further away from the plane of your rotor - the tire is now being pushed toward the crash bars.

Here’s what it looks like - the greyed out tire in this pic is the new, lower offset. You’ll see how it‘s just fine when straight but how it is pushed into the crash bar when turned.

I have Fox 2.0 coilovers set at 2” and run 275/70R17s (32.2”) on +15mm offset wheels and had to loosen and angle the crash bars out of the way to avoid rubbing. It was still kind of close and if I’d gone lower, I would have definitely rubbed. I swapped in ReadyLIFT Anti-intrusion beams just to be sure.

The sweet spot for 32” tires and a 2” level, without removing crash bars, seems to be +25mm or higher offset. A +25mm offset places your tires 30mm (1.2”) further out.

If you’re fine removing crash bars, your possibilities go up.

www.tiresize.com has a great offset tool to help you see how offset changes from stock to aftermarket.

https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

PM me if this is all too much to take in - happy to help you navigate this John.

My front crash bars are long gone My knuckles exhibit a slight rubber streak on them with my 275s, but that's most likely from having aired down for a couple of trails.

 

[Blmpkn]

So it's sounding like a -18 offset might work, but the +6 offset would probably be better. And my existing tire size may or may not be a problem on the 9.5" wide wheel.

I'd go with the +6 for sure..

I have +18s with 275s and the very edge of the tread is JUST BARELY covered by the tops of the wheel arches.

 

[Glocker]

I'd go with the +6 for sure..

I have +18s with 275s and the very edge of the tread is JUST BARELY covered by the tops of the wheel arches.

That didn't look half bad and I have 275s. ?

 

[Blmpkn]

That didn't look half bad and I have 275s. ?

The fitment is much more 'pokey' looking in person, if that's what your after. I'm questioning it's ability to get a sticker next year actually.. Maine Lawbook states the tread must be covered by the fender.. which like I said its BARELY covered lol.. the entirety of the sidewall bulge is outside.

I have a decent enough relationship with a garage in town where I'm sure they'd probably pass me.. but im totally open to having justification to purchase the stock tremor flares if I need to ?


Oh and yeah, definitely rubs on the front bars. Not terrible... but enough where a decent amount of compression with the wheel turned while off road will leave you with "stuck" steering.

 

[Glocker]

The fitment is much more 'pokey' looking in person, if that's what your after. I'm questioning it's ability to get a sticker next year actually.. Maine Lawbook states the tread must be covered by the fender.. which like I said its BARELY covered lol.. the entirety of the sidewall bulge is outside.

I have a decent enough relationship with a garage in town where I'm sure they'd probably pass me.. but im totally open to having justification to purchase the stock tremor flares if I need to ?


Oh and yeah, definitely rubs on the front bars. Not terrible... but enough where a decent amount of compression with the wheel turned while off road will leave you with "stuck" steering.

How well does it fit with the rear bars?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

My front crash bars are long gone My knuckles exhibit a slight rubber streak on them with my 275s, but that's most likely from having aired down for a couple of trails.

The rear crash bars are often the culprit. Do you still have them? Don’t mind removing them if you do?

That would open up a world of options.

 

[Blmpkn]

How well does it fit with the rear bars?

Nothing on the rear bars that I've noticed, but I can do a better inspection tomorrow for you

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