Help!, What oil?

[seasprite]

I guess I'll go ahead and put my 2 cents in this thread. I went with PUP 5w-30. I did notice the HP fuel pump quieted down quiet a bit. Hears a video from Lake Speed Jr, I thought was pretty good. Seems to know his stuff.

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[Rp930]

These are the results from Project Farm when he tested some of the oils. Might help with your decision.

Subjective??

 

[Amsoil guy]

Subjective??

Totally. I just figured with a 3rd party testing who isn’t paid by any company to do any of it, it would be fair comparisons.

 

[Fitzmotor]

Anybody remember when they sold recycled oil? Used to see it at Wal-Mart.

Anybody old enough to remember Ray Lube? In a paper can no less.

 

[Fitzmotor]

So I do not know if I believe the test results shown above from Project farm, it depends upon what parameters they were testing I guess.

I will say, at Honda we tested every type of oil available, Mobil always came out on top, other oils made more power, but the Mobil lasted the longest, the protection additives broke down in the other popular oils before the Mobil.

We were testing the HP gains/losses and long term wear properties of the oils.

Alisyn made the most power, but it wore stuff out, Mobil made okay power but had the best wear protection.

 

[Amsoil guy]

So I do not know if I believe the test results shown above from Project farm, it depends upon what parameters they were testing I guess.

I will say, at Honda we tested every type of oil available, Mobil always came out on top, other oils made more power, but the Mobil lasted the longest, the protection additives broke down in the other popular oils before the Mobil.

We were testing the HP gains/losses and long term wear properties of the oils.

Alisyn made the most power, but it wore stuff out, Mobil made okay power but had the best wear protection.

I believe these final results from Project farm were all done by oil analysis, which of course is the only way to know what your engine is doing and the break down of the oil.

 

[IdahoRanger]

Anybody old enough to remember Ray Lube? In a paper can no less.

Sure do, guess I'm old enough.

 

[Rp930]

Mobil 1. Factory fill for Porsche. Works for me.

 

[Rp930]

I believe these final results from Project farm were all done by oil analysis, which of course is the only way to know what your engine is doing and the break down of the oil.

The results are a mix of oil analysis and his own home brew methods. No thanks.

I watched the video. 10 minutes of my life I’ll never get back.

 

[NotBudule]

Any oil you put in the Ranger is going to end up "blended" anyway , so the MotorCraft blended is fine , imho...

 

[Buckbull]

Mobile 1 and Wix filter. My grandpa retired from mobile and it's just what we have always used. Every 5000 miles.

I've heard several folks complain about the removal of the wheel well liner to get to the filter. My 23 has 3 10mm bolts that just need to be removed. If your dealing with the Philips head they use for the rest of the liner then those are POS.

 

[Buckbull]

Sure do, guess I'm old enough.

I dont remember that brand but helped my dad plenty on cars when oil came packaged like that.

 

[pismo1]

Anybody old enough to remember Ray Lube? In a paper can no less.

ebay.com/itm/186147721854 20 bucks a quart on ebay.

 

[Cmar]

Asking about what oil (or fuel) to use on any vehicle forum ALWAYS opens a fire storm because everyone has their own ideas about what it best. In truth it depends upon how long you expect to keep your truck. Every time I've bought a vehicle I always say - "I'm going to keep it until the wheels fall off." Deep down I know that's a lie. Are you saving it for the next guy. Doesn't make sense to your pocket book. Maintain it for how long you intend to keep it, but be honest with yourself.

Because your truck has a turbo and start/stop, I would recommend a pure synthetic, not because it necessarily lubes better, but it gets to where it's supposed to be quicker, it sticks better, and is resistant today's high engine temperatures. The turbo in your truck spins at about 50,000RPM at idle and about 200,000RPM at wide open. With S/S when you pull up to a stop - say after a highway drive - the engine shuts down to save a little fuel, thereby shutting off the oil supply and water cooling to the turbo. Long term there is no way that can be good for the life of the turbo.

One more thing. If you let the dealer do your oil changes be sure and ask what kind of oil they use. Nine times out of 10 they will automatically say synthetic. Ask if it pure synthetic or blend. Usually it's blend. You want full synthetic, not blend.

As someone said - The Youtuber at "Project Farm" does some pretty good testing which will also help you decide.

The dealer will use the cheapest supplier they can that comes near the specification. I often find that good independent mechanics will use better oil because they have built up a working relationship with a supplier, and don't want customers coming back with problems, thata dealer will just blame on the customer.

 

[Cmar]

I must admit that for a while I used the Ford recommended 5W-30 full synthetic oil in my diesel 3.2 Ranger that Ford recommended. The engine was noisy the oil used to run out like dirty water at changes, and I saw numerous reports that this recommendation didn't always play nice in hot climates like ours. Including a report from a South African mining company which had several 3.2 engines fail under warranty, and their own oil analysis showed that the 5W-30 oil did not keep it's protective abilities for the full 15,000 Km recommended change abilities.
This same company changed their Ranger diesel fleet over to the good old mineral 15-40 Caltex Dellow heavy duty diesel oil as used in their mining machinery and suffered no more failures.

I also noticed that the local Mazda BT 50 which is a re-skinned Ranger recommended a variety of oils according to climate up to and including 15W-40 for the exact same powertrain.

So some time ago I took the middle path and started using a 10W40 semi synthetic HDEO. My engine has never run smoother, lifter clicks and rattles have disappeared, and the weep from my rear main seal stopped. I don't recommend this for everyone but just sayin. Also my car is long past warranty so from that point of view I don't care.

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