Help! Looking for AC Condensate Drain!

[WOADKIL]

Been searching with Google, YouTube and Chat GPT and been unable to locate the condensate drain line on my 2031...

Indications are it is above the tranny, which might explain why I don't see a puddle after parking. Looked from above near the center of the firewall, and underneath around the front of the tranny.

I've not had any problems or funny smells, but just want to do preventive maintenance by poking the drain or using compressed air on the drain. Any pics I've seen on internet suck...

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[airline tech]

Benn searching with Google, YouTube and Chat GPT and been unable to locate the condensate drain line on my 2031...

Indications are it is above the tranny, which might explain why I don't see a puddle after parking. Looked from above near the center of the firewall, and underneath around the front of the tranny.

I've not had any problems or funny smells, but just want to do preventive maintenance by poking the drain or using compressed air on the drain. Any pics I've seen on internet suck...

For Ref: Here is where it is located - buried

and another members solution to clear the drain hole was plugged with chair leg rubber foot,and sealed with RTV I do not recall the thread its in but there was no (Detailed) data
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[ScarzRanger21(2.0)]

Just went through this a few months ago. To access the drain and poke something through it requires effort, patience, and lots of swearing. There’s two ways I found to access the drain tube when mine was clogged. It’s located directly above the transmission and behind the engine.

1) Through the engine compartment. You’ll need to cut through the firewall with a razor knife to expose the end of the drain. Even then, it’s difficult to reach and see what you’re doing. I ended up using a snake camera and was able to push a fish tape into the drain and clear it that way. Wire coat hanger would work also.

2) Through the condensate box under the dash and behind the center console. This requires drilling a hole in the side of the box, bottom right corner if you’re looking at it from the driver side of the truck. From there, I still needed a snake camera to locate the drain and get a coat hanger through it. You could try using a small hose and compressed air but that didn’t work for me. Mine was REALLY clogged. I had better luck through the engine compartment.

It’s a pain either way but doing it yourself saves you a decent chunk of change. A dealership will charge you anywhere from $1500-2000 to either drop the transmission or remove the entire dashboard to access the drain. It’s located in the worst possible spot… My honest opinion is don’t do it unless you need to.

 

[NotBudule2]

Would it have killed Ford to put a dang hose on it and extended it down to one side or the other? Im also curious as to the cause of the clog , is it mud and debris getting in from the outside or is it hvac goo coming from inside?

 

[airline tech]

Would it have killed Ford to put a dang hose on it and extended it down to one side or the other? Im also curious as to the cause of the clog , is it mud and debris getting in from the outside or is it hvac goo coming from inside?

i believe owners are finding pieces of foam (intended) for air sealing the ducts on the hvac housing and its falling down into the drain pan, and as well dust and debris that makes it past the paper air filter and mixes with the condensate- its fine until it works its way to the drain hole , i have found leaves etc on top of my filter - but since installing the screen (cowl) side that has not been an issue - i check the cowl side screen occasionally to ensure no leaves etc are building up, none noted so far - i think the rainwater is actually flushing them out of the channel (if any are getting in there)

it is a poor design and could be more of a clean friendly design than completely buried with limited access - i mean how much engineering design would it take to build a HVAC box assembly with a semi accessible access point for EVAP Core and Heater Core replacements vs complete dash removal - the same issue for fuel pumps - a simple panel and a seal above the pump - nope

 

[Jason B]

Would it have killed Ford to put a dang hose on it and extended it down to one side or the other? Im also curious as to the cause of the clog , is it mud and debris getting in from the outside or is it hvac goo coming from inside?

Long hoses mean more chance of blockage, especially if there are turns in it.

 

[PltFX4]

Long hoses mean more chance of blockage, especially if there are turns in it.

Agreed, but if you can get to the end of it, hooking a shop vac to it will take care of most blockage or at least have a spot to push a (fill in the blank) up the tube to dislodge what's causing the blockage... hopefully.

 

[WOADKIL]

i believe owners are finding pieces of foam (intended) for air sealing the ducts on the hvac housing and its falling down into the drain pan, and as well dust and debris that makes it past the paper air filter and mixes with the condensate- its fine until it works its way to the drain hole , i have found leaves etc on top of my filter - but since installing the screen (cowl) side that has not been an issue - i check the cowl side screen occasionally to ensure no leaves etc are building up, none noted so far - i think the rainwater is actually flushing them out of the channel (if any are getting in t

Just went through this a few months ago. To access the drain and poke something through it requires effort, patience, and lots of swearing. There’s two ways I found to access the drain tube when mine was clogged. It’s located directly above the transmission and behind the engine.

1) Through the engine compartment. You’ll need to cut through the firewall with a razor knife to expose the end of the drain. Even then, it’s difficult to reach and see what you’re doing. I ended up using a snake camera and was able to push a fish tape into the drain and clear it that way. Wire coat hanger would work also.

2) Through the condensate box under the dash and behind the center console. This requires drilling a hole in the side of the box, bottom right corner if you’re looking at it from the driver side of the truck. From there, I still needed a snake camera to locate the drain and get a coat hanger through it. You could try using a small hose and compressed air but that didn’t work for me. Mine was REALLY clogged. I had better luck through the engine compartment.

It’s a pain either way but doing it yourself saves you a decent chunk of change. A dealership will charge you anywhere from $1500-2000 to either drop the transmission or remove the entire dashboard to access the drain. It’s located in the worst possible spot… My honest opinion is don’t do it unless you need to.

here)

it is a poor design and could be more of a clean friendly design than completely buried with limited access - i mean how much engineering design would it take to build a HVAC box assembly with a semi accessible access point for EVAP Core and Heater Core replacements vs complete dash removal - the same issue for fuel pumps - a simple panel and a seal above the pump - nope

Aircraft Tech/ScarzRanger,

Thanks to all for the info! No problems now, so I will just wait until it is necessary to address!

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