Front Strut Install Problems

[Dereku]

To be honest that looks way too tall. I bet those were designed for 4wd trucks. Might want to call the company and ask.

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[Cg32]

Belltech's web site says they're the right part:

https://www.belltech.com/belltech-trail-performance-front-lifted-26021.html

2019 XLT 2WD

not trying to state the obvious but did you double check the part number on the box and the strut to make sure they shipped the correct ones? I am not too familiar with belltech, but is there any way you could have seated the lower spring perch upside down? I have seen people do that with Bilstein 5100’s.

 

[TheRealJawg]

not trying to state the obvious but did you double check the part number on the box and the strut to make sure they shipped the correct ones? I am not too familiar with belltech, but is there any way you could have seated the lower spring perch upside down? I have seen people do that with Bilstein 5100’s.

All good questions.

Yes - I double checked part numbers and it's all correct. They're the 26021 struts but I really don't think they're designed for this truck. Maybe an F150 or something bit def not a RWD ranger. I agree with the previous statement that it's way to tall when the setting i have it at is supposed to retain the factory droop... Ha!

Perch is correct as they include pictures in the instructions and it only made sense or the spring wouldn't sit correctly.

I've reached out to KW Automotive and left a message to discuss it with them. I'll update after I've had a chance to see what they say.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Hey Jared,

In the pictures, I see one jack stand - if you’re doing these by jacking up one side at a time - that will mess with your anti-sway bar links. Raise both sides of the front end and put jack stands on both sides.

Also, that spring compression tool might have been binding on something you couldn’t see. No need for the tool in there once the top mount is back on.

Also, if you want to have less weight to heft up into place when putting it back together, remove the rotor and calliper before you begin - that knuckle will be super easy to maneuver - it’s WAY easier this way.

Good Luck!

 

[TheRealJawg]

Hey Jared,

In the pictures, I see one jack stand - if you’re doing these by jacking up one side at a time - that will mess with your anti-sway bar links. Raise both sides of the front end and put jack stands on both sides.

Also, that spring compression tool might have been binding on something you couldn’t see. No need for the tool in there once the top mount is back on.

Also, if you want to have less weight to heft up into place when putting it back together, remove the rotor and calliper before you begin - that knuckle will be super easy to maneuver - it’s WAY easier this way.

Good Luck!

I did have both sides up (significantly) on stands during the install. The other one is just off to the side in the photos.

As for the spring compressors. I only tried those after nothing else was working.

Appreciate the feedback and guidance though. Any ideas at this point are helpful.

 

[driverdenali]

far as i know you have to do all of the above to get the coil over in.... the cv axle the most important.. if you don't will pull the cv joint apart ......

You don’t have to, lol idk why everyone has issues, it took me 15 min per side. Literally loosen the sway bar up at the frame mount, loosed tie rod and the suspension will drop enough to get the old one out and put a little weight on the lca to pop new one in and bam zip it all back up and go. No need to remove cv at all follow stage3 guide on YouTube.

 

[driverdenali]

All good questions.

Yes - I double checked part numbers and it's all correct. They're the 26021 struts but I really don't think they're designed for this truck. Maybe an F150 or something bit def not a RWD ranger. I agree with the previous statement that it's way to tall when the setting i have it at is supposed to retain the factory droop... Ha!

Perch is correct as they include pictures in the instructions and it only made sense or the spring wouldn't sit correctly.

I've reached out to KW Automotive and left a message to discuss it with them. I'll update after I've had a chance to see what they say.

Figured it out!
They’re not the correct part, the leveling kit or lift kit ones say trail on them like this see attached photo.
the street performance ones you have a lowering kit for the f150.

 

[shaketxavius]

All good questions.

Yes - I double checked part numbers and it's all correct. They're the 26021 struts but I really don't think they're designed for this truck. Maybe an F150 or something bit def not a RWD ranger. I agree with the previous statement that it's way to tall when the setting i have it at is supposed to retain the factory droop... Ha!

Perch is correct as they include pictures in the instructions and it only made sense or the spring wouldn't sit correctly.

I've reached out to KW Automotive and left a message to discuss it with them. I'll update after I've had a chance to see what they say.

When I ordered my eibachs from Stage 3 I was sent a box that stated they were for the Ranger, but the actual coilovers I received were for an F-150. Looks like something had happened and a return was paced in the box and it was then shipped to me. Reach out to Belltech directly and they'll be able to look up and make sure it's actually correct. My Eibachs didn't ahve numbers that I could just look up, only internal system IDs.

 

[TheRealJawg]

Figured it out!
They’re not the correct part, the leveling kit or lift kit ones say trail on them like this see attached photo.
the street performance ones you have a lowering kit for the f150.

I'm not sure what you found. The 26021 struts are trail performance and look exactly like your photo. Do you have a link to the site you found that says the 26021 is for an F150?

 

[JasonTremor]

Looks like the correct part number. Based on the attached specs, they give up to 3 inches of lift depending on the spring perch spacers used.

 

[TheRealJawg]

Just an update. I have contacted KW Automotive/Belltech multiple times now and it's just going to their general voice mailbox. I left a message this morning but no response. I'm REALLY curious to hear what they have to say.

Am I the first consumer to try and install these??

 

[Dr3wDrop]

Did you try loosing the UCA mount? It is really stiff from the factory and you torque it when the wheels and tires are resting on the ground. I remember mine was a PIA to push back down with the Ford Ranger Lifts 2" spacer.

 

[driverdenali]

I'm not sure what you found. The 26021 struts are trail performance and look exactly like your photo. Do you have a link to the site you found that says the 26021 is for an F150?

Yours say street down the side, those are the street performance series so you don’t have the right part I’m assuming it’s the f150 because it looks likes this.

Edit: also the ones on your truck are 2.5 not 2 like the trail series i can tell that from the photos.
.

 

[TheRealJawg]

Did you try loosing the UCA mount? It is really stiff from the factory and you torque it when the wheels and tires are resting on the ground. I remember mine was a PIA to push back down with the Ford Ranger Lifts 2" spacer.

I didn't because it was done as far as it would go when I tried the strut with spacer rings. There were still several inches of clearance left between ball joint and knuckle. After taking off all of the spacer rings and remounting the spring I was able to get the UCA down far enough with a ratchet strap.

Still leaning towards this being incorrectly described on the website and not meant for a Ranger.

Good suggestion!

 

[Dr3wDrop]

I didn't because it was done as far as it would go when I tried the strut with spacer rings. There were still several inches of clearance left between ball joint and knuckle. After taking off all of the spacer rings and remounting the spring I was able to get the UCA down far enough with a ratchet strap.

Still leaning towards this being incorrectly described on the website and not meant for a Ranger.

Good suggestion!

I know when I did mine, I only needed 2 threads exposed to grab then the impact did the rest.

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