t4thfavor
Well-Known Member
I'll have to see how the brake controller behaves with a PWM signal on the brake input, maybe they already handle it...Prob need a capacitor on the switched side to smooth the PWM as well.
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I'll have to see how the brake controller behaves with a PWM signal on the brake input, maybe they already handle it...Prob need a capacitor on the switched side to smooth the PWM as well.
Just tell them to throw the install in as a condition of the sale and see what they say. They might even throw the whole thing in if they are making good money on the sale. It's "OEM" only in that it ads a not OEM looking knob in an inconvenient spot. I actually much prefer my P3 because it comes out without removing anything.
Well I received mine today and it’s definitely different than the other Redarc. Cable is a different plug and looks shorter than the others that I have read about. Knob is different too, it now has a trailer logo on it and thanks to Ford for not even assuring that the rubber cap is oriented properly.
My OCD made me have to fix it and make sure at zero the trailer logo is level. Had to pry off the cap and then re-glue it on in the correct orientation. WTF?
They give you the older Redarc plate with the two holes (1 for the controller and 1 for the led) and the old installation information but the new control does not have the additional little led? WTF? And the installation guide tells you to drill both holes still. Again.....WTF?
I guess I will see how it goes tomorrow, fortunately it’s not too hot out yet so I am planning a full day just to make sure that I am not rushed.
I mean, depending on where it was level at before, you probably will *never* reasonably operate/leave that knob at 0. Turning the brake bias to 0, turning off the brakes, defeats the purpose of having it in the first place.Well I received mine today and it’s definitely different than the other Redarc. Cable is a different plug and looks shorter than the others that I have read about. Knob is different too, it now has a trailer logo on it and thanks to Ford for not even assuring that the rubber cap is oriented properly.
My OCD made me have to fix it and make sure at zero the trailer logo is level. Had to pry off the cap and then re-glue it on in the correct orientation. WTF?
They give you the older Redarc plate with the two holes (1 for the controller and 1 for the led) and the old installation information but the new control does not have the additional little led? WTF? And the installation guide tells you to drill both holes still. Again.....WTF?
I guess I will see how it goes tomorrow, fortunately it’s not too hot out yet so I am planning a full day just to make sure that I am not rushed.
my intent is to have it turned off/at zero when not towing. My OCD just couldn't take itI mean, depending on where it was level at before, you probably will *never* reasonably operate/leave that knob at 0. Turning the brake bias to 0, turning off the brakes, defeats the purpose of having it in the first place.
But yes, the instructions always leave a bit to be desired.
Understandable. WIth no trailer connected though, it's not really "on" - 0 doesn't actually *disable* the controller, it's still powered, it's the trailer signal that controls whether or not it's powered.my intent is to have it turned off/at zero when not towing. My OCD just couldn't take it
Well you I and about 25K more people agree, but we’re currently SOL.IMO, if you order the trailer tow package and the truck is rated for 7000 lbs, this should have come with that package or be plug and play.
I hear you. Gotta do what you gotta do.Well you I and about 25K more people agree, but we’re currently SOL.
I for one don’t think we can change that, so I did what I needed to do to prepare for the next few years.
OK, yesterday I picked up my new '19 Ranger.
Today I ordered the TBC kit (from Levittown) and spent quite some time reviewing the install document posted here earlier.
(BTW, wifey is apoplectic over me "tearing up my brand new truck" to install the TBC--women, sheesh!)
Basically you install a Redarc Tow-Pro Elite and then 'add in' a Lumen 'Trailer Lamp ECU'. The latter sends six wires back to the CHMSL (Center High-Mount Stop Light) where you disconnect the three-pin connector that is feeding it and jumper in the wires from the front based on which color connectors Ford used at the factory.
'Why this lunacy?', you ask. Well, the reason is because the CHMSL is a very special kind of brake lamp. Since Ford failed to think about an integrated TBC in time, they had to work out this Rube-Goldberg solution to provide a fully integrated, factory-look install that would meet all of DOT's very complex rules when it comes to automated systems in autos (AEB & FCWS). Everything is plug-and-play with the exception of two wires that have to be spliced--but those two wires were meant to be spliced as they are terminated and hanging loose behind the trim panel.
So, once you jump through the hoops of installing the fool thing, you have a 'factory installed look' as well as what many are calling the most advanced TBC out there, the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite AND it plays well with your AEB and FCWS!
You have to admit that one little knob/button that blinks different colors and has sense enough to control your trailer for you trumps the huge "squeeze me' paddles on the older integrated systems.
I'll report back after I 'tear up my interior' and y'all will want to know if divorce happened.
That's a pretty good deal. It's def more than a $75 pain to install it yourself.My local dealer said if I buy it from them at list price, they will install it for $75. I am just going to go with it. Not worth the risks to me.