Dorman transmission pan

[Frenchy]

I misspoke! The part failed in year 17.

Yes, you are understanding me correctly. Like I said, I keep my vehicles as long as possible. The longer I keep one the lower the per year expense. $20K amortized over 20 years is $1K / year.

I just went through the 2005 truck from top to bottom and replaced everything except the transfer case. To break even on that expense will take 10 years @ $1K / year. Half the cost of new 2005 truck, and 1/4 the cost of a new Ranger.

So yes, making the part out of aluminum instead of plastic is a consideration when I purchase a vehicle. The mounting gasket would not have needed to be touched at all. And the truck is still on the original thermostat as well. Which would you prefer?

This..........................................................................vs.............This

.............................

The only thing that failed in the first 16 years was the alternator at year 15. Even the water pump is still going with no sign of wear! I don't count wear items like brake pads or shocks.

I did have to replace the super cab door plastic latch cable ends on the 2005 with aluminum ones for $10. The plastic had crumbled away, not allowing me the open the back doors.... an hour job for both doors.

I just drove the 2005 Ranger on a 500 mile trip. Not a hiccup and it was absolutely smooth at 80mph. The wife commented on how she trusted it more than the 2020 Ranger. I hope to get the 2020 to the same level of reliability. And I will know by mid summer if that is possible. If not I will put it up for sale.

I have already sunk more maintenance $ in the 2020 Ranger in 3+ years than I did in the first 16 years of the 2005 Ranger.

I am not happy about that!

Trust me, I am not arguing the logic behind it. More.of the simple value of how long it lasted before having to repair is the simple bit

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[Cmar]

I have to agree, I have another vehicle with a plastic trans pan (also ZF) and it's a 2006.

Must be reasonable quality plastic then. Good to hear. There is too much cheap and crappy plastic around today that just falls apart without even touching it!

 

[TJC]

Even with good quality plastic, they will still gas off and become brittle over time. And those little plastic parts will keep failing over time. The door cables are a prime example. All 4 ends failed at the same time (within a month). These parts never see the light of day and the truck has been garaged its entire life. The aluminum replacement parts were cheap and will never fail.

Same goes for plastic intake manifolds, they will warp over time and not seat, creating vacuum leaks that are not obvious, and are difficult to find.

 

[Langwilliams]

Up here in the rust belt the old ford stamped steel oil pans commonly rusted an needed replacement. It may have taken 20 years but it's not uncommon. I'm not the biggest fan of plastic parts on engines and transmissions a 16 year life on a $60 part isn't a problem in my book.

 

[RAYJAY]

I misspoke! The part failed in year 17.

Yes, you are understanding me correctly. Like I said, I keep my vehicles as long as possible. The longer I keep one the lower the per year expense. $20K amortized over 20 years is $1K / year.

I just went through the 2005 truck from top to bottom and replaced everything except the transfer case. To break even on that expense will take 10 years @ $1K / year. Half the cost of new 2005 truck, and 1/4 the cost of a new Ranger.

So yes, making the part out of aluminum instead of plastic is a consideration when I purchase a vehicle. The mounting gasket would not have needed to be touched at all. And the truck is still on the original thermostat as well. Which would you prefer?

This..........................................................................vs.............This

.............................

The only thing that failed in the first 16 years was the alternator at year 15. Even the water pump is still going with no sign of wear! I don't count wear items like brake pads or shocks.

I did have to replace the super cab door plastic latch cable ends on the 2005 with aluminum ones for $10. The plastic had crumbled away, not allowing me the open the back doors.... an hour job for both doors.

I just drove the 2005 Ranger on a 500 mile trip. Not a hiccup and it was absolutely smooth at 80mph. The wife commented on how she trusted it more than the 2020 Ranger. I hope to get the 2020 to the same level of reliability. And I will know by mid summer if that is possible. If not I will put it up for sale.

I have already sunk more maintenance $ in the 2020 Ranger in 3+ years than I did in the first 16 years of the 2005 Ranger.

I am not happy about that!

personally would stay with the composite parts, the metal will breakdown with the antifreeze faster than the composite..... seen the metal pin hole lots of times ..

 

[TJC]

I guess we pick our poison...

 

[TJC]

personally would stay with the composite parts, the metal will breakdown with the antifreeze faster than the composite..... seen the metal pin hole lots of times ..

I have never had a radiator or aluminum part fail with pin holes. I use top quality antifreeze, and only DISTILLED water in my vehicles. I also don't use dissimilar metals in my coolant systems. I have had plastic radiator tops and bottom become brittle and fail.

I am sticking to what works for me.

 

[Roscoe_t]

I have never had a radiator or aluminum part fail with pin holes. I use top quality antifreeze, and only DISTILLED water in my vehicles. I also don't use dissimilar metals in my coolant systems. I have had plastic radiator tops and bottom become brittle and fail.

I am sticking to what works for me.

I found the steel 6mm bolts holding the valley pan in my old BMW V8 to be badly weakened when I had to reseal the pan (aluminum block). The presence of coolant was a likely factor. I had to drill out a couple that broke. I was very careful torquing down their replacements as I feared the threads had been compromised.

The same car had an aluminum transmission cooler that was hooked up to steel coolant lines. When I tried to remove it, the fittings on the lines completely stripped the threads on the cooler nipples. A replacement cooler was about $800. I finally found a welder who replaced the nipples -- a lot of guys didn't want to touch the job.

So electrolytic corrosion is a real thing when the cooling system is involved. I don't think I'd worry so much about the transmission pan.

 

[TJC]

You know I never considered all the problems folks have with the rust belt area. I've lived almost exclusively in the south. But I know corrosion is a big issue up there.

 

[Beez]

If you don't mind drilling a hole and doing a little Dremel work, you can add this Transmission Oil Drain Plug Kit for around $12.95 (ebay).

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