DIY: Adding the 12V Power Outlet Option in the Bed

micl9

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okay...but the question is do you have to have the truck in run/accessory mode to initiate the cycle.....I guess the better question is the power active always? In other words do I have to cycle the truck to use my bed lights or is that bed power now always hot?
In stock configuration the power comes on with accy position 1 of the IGN, so you do have to cycle to at least accessory after they would time out.

Now, in theory, they should never timeout. Until the battery gets below 11.8V as Ethan said.
I added some info on that after you quoted me.
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WLFPIR8

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I used the BCM module to change it, Disabled Power Point Feature.
1609268914874.png


But can confirm after change that was the Hex change, 726-39-01 setting XXXX X1XX XXXX, changed 1 to 0.

I am going on 2.5 hours and power is still there vs stock setting of 4500 sec (1.5 hrs).



Confirmed! this also applies to the rear power ports AND the aux power to the bed.?

And Battery saver will shut them off if the battery gets too low. I can also confirm this as I was doing some testing with low battery (I discovered) and my bed lights would shut off after like 30sec after turning the IGN off. This was before my ForScan mods so had me freaked out a bit! The bed light install was not a quick n easy!
Great info! This should be pinned somewhere, lol.
 

r1ch999999

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I like the Wolf Haus kit, but I'd rather just have the 12v plug in the bed instead of needing a pigtail.
 

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I like the Wolf Haus kit, but I'd rather just have the 12v plug in the bed instead of needing a pigtail.
If only ford had made that hole slightly bigger... Or just put it in all the trucks like the Ridgeline and other brands.
 

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r1ch999999

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If only ford had made that hole slightly bigger... Or just put it in all the trucks like the Ridgeline and other brands.
Is that why? Saves me the effort of researching it and making my own. I’ll have to order one in March.
 

WLFPIR8

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Is that why? Saves me the effort of researching it and making my own. I’ll have to order one in March.
Yeah, I basically use the best option for maintaining the 12V/20A rating and keeping it as weather resistant as I can without any modifications to the bed. Mostly because (where I live) anything you do to the metal on a vehicle just rusts the first winter.
 

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Is that why? Saves me the effort of researching it and making my own. I’ll have to order one in March.
There is a Ford part, but you have to cut a new hole. The advantage of the third party solution is it uses an existing hole.
 

P. A. Schilke

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Yeah, I basically use the best option for maintaining the 12V/20A rating and keeping it as weather resistant as I can without any modifications to the bed. Mostly because (where I live) anything you do to the metal on a vehicle just rusts the first winter.
Hi Ethan,

I am and remain a fan of your product! Kudos! Oh btw...You expect F Series and Ranger folks to talk and standardize? Cold day in hell for that to happen.... So there you go Ethan...lapsing into logic...Sheesh! :)

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
 

lloydr1206

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Yeah I considered doing that, but decided to keep it simple and minimize wires.
I also chopped the switch that came with my Nilights in place of one I could mount thru the hole in the back of the bed.
Finished job! Thanks again Ethan!
n6wmbRFBy37-YL3dBzSD74Bpu=w1251-h938-no?authuser=0.jpg
did that button fit right in the hole or did you have to drill? If it fits can you provide a link for that button?
Thank you.
 

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did that button fit right in the hole or did you have to drill? If it fits can you provide a link for that button?
Thank you.
FYI, that hole is ~0.6 inch diameter with the bedliner stuff, but (if you scrape back some of the plastic) should fit a common 16mm ~ 5/8 inch "16mm push button switch" (search that on amazon).

I'll actually be testing this soon with some other bed lighting options...
 

WLFPIR8

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did that button fit right in the hole or did you have to drill? If it fits can you provide a link for that button?
Thank you.
Though this ( APIELE (Pcs of 2) 12mm Latching Push Button Switch High Round Head Stainless Steel 1 Normally Open with Ring Led (Red): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific ) is a bit smaller and might work better... Hopefully I'll know later this week when amazon delivers. But otherwise, only issue I have is getting my hand all the way up there to tighten the nut on the back side, lol...
 

micl9

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did that button fit right in the hole or did you have to drill? If it fits can you provide a link for that button?
Thank you.
No drilling needed, actually had to add a SS washer.
LINK
I like the one Ethan linked to, same price so you might wait to see how it works for him.

And yes, reaching up to that hole inside the fender is a bitch! One vote for my switch the nut is built into the rubber boot on the FRONT side. Just hold the wire pig tail on the backside and hand tighten the nut/rubber boot.
 
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lloydr1206

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WLFPIR8

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I’ll wait to see how you make out, thanks.
So, here's what I've been up to...

2021-02-28 17_02_47-_DSC1805.JPG - IrfanView (Zoom_ 2923 x 1945).png


With the help of my brother, we've been working on a 3D printed insert for that hole that will allow you to use a standard 12MM "Anti Vandal" switch without having to deal with anything "behind" the wall of the bed. (E.g. APIELE (Pcs of 2) 12mm Latching Push Button Switch High Round Head Stainless Steel 1 Normally Open with Ring Led (Blue): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific )

On that note, the 16MM switches MAY fit if you don't have any spray in bedliner, and even then you might need to slightly enlarge the hole. The 12mm is way too small, when used by itself.
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