DIY: Adding the 12V Power Outlet Option in the Bed

Akshon

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As I posted in another thread. I have ordered (what I and a dealer parts guy) think is needed to add the outlet. Including hardware and the sub-harness. I will post pics of the install and part numbers to those interested. Waiting on parts from Detroit. Just a FYI drilling is required.

NOTE: 19N236B in the diagram below is not the correct part number. Should be 19N236A. See post #3 below for correct part numbers and quantities.

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dguffin

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As I posted in another thread. I have ordered (what I and a dealer parts guy) think is needed to add the outlet. Including hardware and the sub-harness. I will post pics of the install and part numbers to those interested. Waiting on parts from Detroit. Just a FYI drilling is required.
I would definitely be interested in that information.
Thanks
 
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Akshon

Akshon

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Ok for the install you will need a 2-1/8” hole saw, 5/16” drill bit, flat and round file, Rust preventative paint of your choice.

Drill a 2-1/8” hole in the side bed wall near the left rear cleat. (See photos below) Use caution when drilling or you will end up with dings protruding from your outer fender. You can position a block of wood or stuff a bunch of rags up into the cavity from below to orevent damage.

Insert the power port body into the opening and mark the location of the 4 screw holes. Drill 4- 5/16” holes. Debur all holes using a round file.

Using a flat file, in the large opening, create 4 flat areas adjacent to the 5/16” holes. Insert the 4 captive nuts into the body with the threads inboard the fender. Paint all exposed metal with rust preventative paint.
Install the sub-harness onto the socket and feed the wire down the inner fender well. Install 4 retaining screws.

Under the truck, remove the dummy plug from the body harness and insert the power port sub-harness. There is one large hole on the sheet metal pillar opposite the tail light cavity for the “christmas tree style” zip tie retainer that is included on the sub-harness.
I ended up adding a few extra zip ties to secure the wiring.
Thats about it. Time-about 30 minutes.
Pics below...

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magnet79

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What was the total cost on this? And, showing my ignorance here but, that gets you a typical household-style outlet there?
 

rangerdanger

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What was the total cost on this? And, showing my ignorance here but, that gets you a typical household-style outlet there?
I think parts are about $75.
 
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Akshon

Akshon

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What was the total cost on this? And, showing my ignorance here but, that gets you a typical household-style outlet there?
Parts were about $65. The alternative being to find/order a truck with the “Bed Utility Package” 86Q which comes with a plastic drop in bedliner.
This gets you a 20 amp- 12 Volt outlet. Similar to those in the dash. You could probably run a small 12-120v inverter off of it.

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Rinn69

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Don't forget to slap some dielectric grease on the contact points :thumbsup:
 

ulev1st

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Internally like a lighter outlet?
 

THLONE

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No smoking in the bed. LOL

Is it hot all of the time or only when the ign is on?
 
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Akshon

Akshon

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No smoking in the bed. LOL

Is it hot all of the time or only when the ign is on?
Hot @ all times. But controlled via the BCM so if battery voltage drops below threshold it will shut it down.

There is most likely a PID for it in the BCM. On my 17 Escape I was able to change the power port state using Forscan (Hot at all times or Hot with ign on). Have yet to poke around the trucks modules.
 
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RJohans

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Nice job! IMHO, having a 12V CLA in the truck bed seems much more practical than the two currently in the dash.
 
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