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Luke Nukem

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For those who are replacing the just the DPFE and still having the issue you should replace the EGR tube as well as the hoses to the DPFE. Another thing to take into consideration is that this concern might be trans related, but like I said you need a scan tool that can read the data stream and you need to know how to interpret that info otherwise its all guess work and money potentially wasted.
Would you happen to have the part number for the EGR tube? Just want to make sure I am looking at the right thing.
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BladeRanger

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Apologies if I missed this somewhere in the 42 pages, but has anyone else continued to have symptoms even after replacing the DPFE sensor? If so, what else did you check or end up fixing?
Mine came back after 10K miles, so maybe it's every 10K miles replacement. Plus I had added to clean the direct fuel injection.
 

BladeRanger

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Do you guys know if we can just get the hoses only? I bought the sensor last month and thought it would come with the hoses but this particular part number did not.
 

RangerRob

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I did the DPFE sensor ... and had high hopes since the bucking and surging has become an issue in recent weeks on my truck (I have 82K miles on a 2019 FX4 Lariat ).
Replaced the DPFE and still have a bit of the issue, especially cold ... it is worst than it was months ago.

After reading this thread and considering other items here are some thoughts -

1. Should I do the actual EGR?
2. Is it time for me to get a Diag tool?
3. Maybe plugs should be done?
4. is it time to consider a fluid change?
5. anything else to consider like DIFF fluids?

or do I go to the local dealer and have them troubleshoot.

The issue is gone or hard to detect in Sport mode.

I will keep reading but since the DPFE did not do it, I was hoping to get some input from the other Ranger fans on this forum. - Thanks in advance.
 


MrBusses

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I did the DPFE sensor ... and had high hopes since the bucking and surging has become an issue in recent weeks on my truck (I have 82K miles on a 2019 FX4 Lariat ).
Replaced the DPFE and still have a bit of the issue, especially cold ... it is worst than it was months ago.

After reading this thread and considering other items here are some thoughts -

1. Should I do the actual EGR?
2. Is it time for me to get a Diag tool?
3. Maybe plugs should be done?
4. is it time to consider a fluid change?
5. anything else to consider like DIFF fluids?

or do I go to the local dealer and have them troubleshoot.

The issue is gone or hard to detect in Sport mode.

I will keep reading but since the DPFE did not do it, I was hoping to get some input from the other Ranger fans on this forum. - Thanks in advance.

Stop throwing parts at it and let a real technician diag it. Like I said in my other posts unless you have a scan tool and know how to read it you are just guessing. You could have just a bad spark plug it could be transmission how much money do you want to spend guessing?
 

CORanger

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My truck is at the dealer on Day 2 now. 2019 XLT FX4 w/82k miles. I replaced the DPFE, had all fluids replaced about 20k miles ago. Bucking, hesitating specifically between 3d and 4th gear when not at full throttle. Last visit about 4 months ago, the tech said he reprogrammed the throttle with an update. Didn't help. Today they called to tell me I need a new transmission. By the grace of God, Ford offered me an extended warranty plan last December that I decided to purchase. So, it looks like I will be out only the $500 deductible (plus the $1000 for the warranty plan). Now waiting for the warranty inspector to approve.
 

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I've had problems with both the EGR valve and transmission...they're not related to one another...
 
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Luke Nukem

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Thanks!

Question—I replaced the DPFE and hoses, which made a noticeable difference. However, three months later, the issue came back and has been getting more and more noticeable. Should I replace the DPFE sensor and hoses again when replacing the EGR tube, or do you think I can get away with just replacing the EGR tube? My concern is if it is moisture related, the moisture has already reached the DPFE sensor I just replaced, and it will need to be replaced again. I'm not sure if that is how it works so I figured I'd ask before spending the money.
 

Yinzcity

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Thanks!

Question—I replaced the DPFE and hoses, which made a noticeable difference. However, three months later, the issue came back and has been getting more and more noticeable. Should I replace the DPFE sensor and hoses again when replacing the EGR tube, or do you think I can get away with just replacing the EGR tube? My concern is if it is moisture related, the moisture has already reached the DPFE sensor I just replaced, and it will need to be replaced again. I'm not sure if that is how it works so I figured I'd ask before spending the money.
Just the DPFE sensor should do it, that's all I've ever replaced. Mine lasts for 3-6 months too so you are not alone there.
 

Yinzcity

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I took some more data today regarding this issue. My truck hasn't progressed to the point where its not driving well, but I feel some studdering in the mornings, especially when its damp. It also seems to have an increase in misfire counts when easing back on the gas lightly after letting off such as when accelerating out of a turn. DPFE sensor was replaced sometime last fall so its about 6-8 months old.

First up is a manual vacuum test of the current DPFE sensor. Approximately 1.5V at 0 pressure and a steady increase/decrease with the vacuum applied. Sensor is quick to respond and no weird spikes or dips.
20240607_174845.jpg

20240607_174811.jpg


Next, I tested in vehicle using the process described by airline tech a few pages back. Sensor showed no flow and 1.5V at idle, flow and voltage increasing when in drive, on the brakes, and holding at 2000 RPM. The DPFE voltage is more or less steady, but the pressure reading seems like it jumps around a lot, even if its following the general trend of the voltage.

20240607_180647.jpg


Next, I swapped in a new sensor and repeated the in vehicle test. Same behavior as before. Conclusion, no issue with the DPFE Sensor?

20240607_183159.webp


I checked the EGR position, its opening, 0 at idle, 8.5%-9% at 2000 RPM during the test which matches the numbers airline tech posted.

20240607_183153.jpg


Next up, check the Exhaust pressure sensor voltage. This doesn't seem to move much, but it does move. I see the greatest change durring sudden change in RPM, but generally it increases with RPM. The amount it changes is miniscule though, like 0.99V at idle to 1.07V at 2000 RPM. I've no idea how the computer separates signal from noise at that level, but my readings match the values shown by airline tech, so maybe its correct? The signal is not smooth, there's a lot of ups and downs, but EGR position is stable, so it doesn't seem to be affecting how that opens.

20240607_184155.webp


So Im a bit stumped at this point. I feel like the DPFE pressure should be smoother. The voltage is smooth, so there's something else that is feeding into that calculation that is making those peaks and valleys. Maybe its the Exhaust Pressure Sensor? If that's cheap enough and easy enough to get to, maybe I will swap that out and see if there is any change. Maybe I am expecting too much out of the thing and it just doesn't drive smooth, but that's not something any of the other vehicles I've owned have struggled with.
 

Enitan

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I’ve had the symptoms on flats from 25-30 mph as long as I can remember at this point. It finally threw the P139C (which hasn’t reappeared since I cleared it and put another couple hundred of miles on the truck since).

part ordered - if this fixes this dang hucka buck that I’ve been dealing with all this time I’m gonna be equally ecstatic while face palming for forgetting about these forums.

edit: I’ve seen a few replies saying these are lasting less than a year are they covered under the 12k/12 mo warranty for OEM parts or nah? (Sorry if it’s been answered this is a monster thread)
 

airline tech

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If you ref post #652 - Mr. Busses - Drive Cycle, post he mentions the fluctuating DPFE Pressure, before replacement, but I do not know if that became stable after Tube & Sensor replacement.

Other than that, from what I see with what was posted - all readings appear normal
The Map & EBP readings appear normal range as well.

BTW: I am trying to figure out how to @ Mr. Busses - highlight that for a mentioned you response to the member or as a reference (quick link) to the members post etc.
Can someone tell me how to do it?
 

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Just the DPFE sensor should do it, that's all I've ever replaced. Mine lasts for 3-6 months too so you are not alone there.
Did you use the old clamp? I'm thinking of replacing it.
 

Yinzcity

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Did you use the old clamp? I'm thinking of replacing it.
I've only ever replaced just the sensor, so I can't speak to the connections at the bottom. But for the connections to the sensor itself, I did not reuse the OEM clamps. I replaced with a pair of mini worm drive clamps which makes it easy to swap out whenever needed.
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