Boost Pressure

ISUACE

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ISUACE

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Also... I did not see much if at all any delay with the boost or vacuum readings after installing the restrictor.
 
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Apples

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Most well-designed gauges, have a build in restriction to limit needle pulsing. The pulsing is related to the number of intake strokes per revolution.

Everyone keeps bringing up the use of the Pro-Cal programmer tool, plugged into the OBDII port. If you read the fine print which came with the tool, you'd know why it is best not to use it 24/7.

If you're really want to know the exact boost peak, actual boost, average boost; exhaust oil and, water temperature; etc., then spend the big bucks to buy an engine performance data-logger. They range from about $1,000 up to a bit over $3,500. You see these in SCCA spec race cars, like Spec Miata et. al. But precious few of us are into racing G5 Rangers. That leaves us with a boost pressure/vacuum gauge, which can be tell-tale, if we know what to look for. I'll give you an example, albeit rare.

If suddenly, your gauge starts pulsing much more radically at idle, you'll know that one cylinder isn't firing correctly. Won't tell you enough to narrow down the cause, however.

It is just one tool in the box, as it were.
 
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Eskram

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I can't speak for others, but I didn't want to have something constantly plugged into the OBDII port.
These don't plug into the obd port. There's an electric sending unit that tees into the same manifold port - instead of having to run tubing to the gauge, you run a wire from the sending unit to the gauge. It simplifies the install a bit, and also gets rid of the needle fluctuation issue, and adds nice features like peak boost and alerts if you over boost for some reason.

I had a mechanical guage at one point and swapped it out for this one.
 
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Apples

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I had an all-electric one too, but it just too slow to be of good use, in my opinion.
 


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I installed it inline with the boost pressure line inside the cab after it comes through the firewall. It basically eliminates any vacuum pressure fluctuations you can have from the manifold.

Here's some more info:

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2342679
Well, I got my gauge in (still tweaking the dash tray mount, so will post pics later) and everything seems fine, but I am experiencing vacuum fluttering using a ~$75 Autometer gauge. I may snag a restriction fitting at some point, but will probably leave this as is for a bit.
 

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Cleaned up my dash tray install yesterday. Rerouted the tube a bit to hide it and drilled out a new hole in a spare tray I ordered from Levittown. Overall pretty happy with the look of it and I retained a decent amount of tray space with the new placement.

I also installed the pressure restrictor that ISUACE recommended (visible in the 3rd image, sorry for quality). I still get slight needle vibrations at times, but it is better. The noise on the other hand, I did not expect. This thing sounds like there is a BOV down by my brake pedal when the turbo is spooling. I might relocate it to the engine bay if it gets annoying.

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IMG_7105.jpg
 

ISUACE

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Cleaned up my dash tray install yesterday. Rerouted the tube a bit to hide it and drilled out a new hole in a spare tray I ordered from Levittown. Overall pretty happy with the look of it and I retained a decent amount of tray space with the new placement.

I also installed the pressure restrictor that ISUACE recommended (visible in the 3rd image, sorry for quality). I still get slight needle vibrations at times, but it is better. The noise on the other hand, I did not expect. This thing sounds like there is a BOV down by my brake pedal when the turbo is spooling. I might relocate it to the engine bay if it gets annoying.

IMG_7103.jpg


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IMG_7105.jpg
Nice job... I haven't heard any noises with my restrictor. How loud is yours?
 

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Nice job... I haven't heard any noises with my restrictor. How loud is yours?
Seriously? Mine makes a very loud hissing with any boost, so basically any time you are accelerating on the freeway I hear a quite loud hiss. I tried to record it with my phone, but didn't get great results. I am thinking about just removing it and dealing with the needle vibrations. Curious as to why yours does not make noise. You said you installed it within the cab, right?
 
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ISUACE

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Seriously? Mine makes a very loud hissing with any boost, so basically any time you are accelerating on the freeway I hear a quite loud hiss. I tried to record it with my phone, but didn't get great results. I am thinking about just removing it and dealing with the needle vibrations. Curious as to why yours does not make noise. You said you installed it within the cab, right?
I'd check for leaks... mines totally silent...
 
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Apples

Apples

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Isaac is probably correct. Finding the correct size hose clamps (actually clips of a sort), isn't easy. I bought millimeter ones on Amazon. I think I bought about 25 for the same price as a couple of incorrect sized ones from Ace Hardware.

For example, if the tubing is 1/4 OD, the correct size clamp is 6 mm. The "American" size is 1/4 ID, NON expanded. Silly international standards to be sure!
 

Zetterbeard

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I just took the thing out. I do not believe there were any leaks, as I could put my finger over the small pinhole outlet on the restrictor and could mute the hiss by covering it. I also used the same clamps in other places on the install and reused the ones that were used on the restrictor. All is quiet now, just with small needle vibrations. I'm just going to keep it this way, works fine.
 
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Apples

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Probably okay. The gauges aren't that expensive if they do fail.
 

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Why would you do all sorts of work to hook up a mechanical guage with vaccuum tubing when the engine already has a boost pressure sensor?
You can easily buy an OBD dongle and a wireless boost gauge.
You’re just adding points of failure.
Do you happen to know the PID used monitor the boost pressure? Thank you
 

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I don't know how many folks have taken the time to install a boost gauge on their Ranger. Those who have, I'd like some comments from.

I'm seeing max boost at about 22 psi (I have the Ford Performance tune), but typically at lower ambient temperatures—say between 50° to about 75° or so. My boost drops about 2 psi as the RPM approaches redline, which I expect is normal. It also goes down at higher ambients, which is also normal.

I've read that the normal boost range is 17 to 18 pounds, but I didn't install my gauge until after the software upgrade.

By the way, this is the kit I used: (https://cp-e.com/shop/product/ford-ecoboost-2-3l-turbo-maptap/)

As I said before, it is difficult to get the connections made due to the location of the "nipple" on the intake manifold. That part took me about 10 minutes, and about 3 minor cuts! The hard part was fishing the tubing down through the heater ducting. I had to take out the top-of-dash tray, after which it went the first time. I mounted my gauge in the tray.

If you use nylon 1/4" OD tubing, and a "PLASTIC" wire fish tape (available from Home Disappointment), fish the tubing above and to the left the hood release cable as seen from the inside of the cabin. With a little effort, you can then pull the tubing by simply pushing it over the ferrel on the fish tape, and pull from the engine side. Took me about 20 minutes total.

Here are the best photos I can take. Space is at a premium, and without some sort of "snorkel" camera, this is about as good as it gets.

The blue nylon tube is the pressure line.

There are two connections to the intake manifold. The front one (in this case) is the MAP connection. The other is much too big for the "kit".

The third photo is shows the "kit" connections.

From here, you're sort of on your own. That said, it isn't rocket science.

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Digital boost reading from OBD...20-21psi max, stock tune..
Sponsored

 
 



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