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Belt Tensioner SNAPPED OFF

TJC

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See picture. I also ground a bit off the backside of the stop because I felt it was a bit too close ( my bit was sketchy so pardon the workmanship). It makes the belt change much easier for sure. I would love to know why they did what they did.
Looked up other model 2022’s with the 2.3L to see what they took. The Explorer and Bronco take the same as the Ranger. The Mustang took the same as the Escape style. Same layout for the 2020 versions of these vehicles too minus the Bronco. I remember Benny at Levittown saying that the front cover on the Ranger was unique to the Ranger. Probably because of the fan drive style.

IMG_2833.webp
Looks like you went about 50% further than I did. I cut to the base of the stop ramp. There seems to be plenty of movement distance, and I can't image the tensioner swinging in larger movements. I'll pop the hood and cycle through the AC and watch to see just how much movement there really is.

Re: Adding a Washer on the mounting stud.
It would only allow additional movement equal to the thickness of the washer. This is not a viable option.

The only 2 options available are to grind the original mounting stud on the timing chain cover or remove the little bit we did from the tensioner cover.

Grinding the stud is probably the most elegant solution and then add a washer to the stud if you chose to go back to the original tensioner... And for the life of me I don't know what anyone would do that, esp if they own a 2020 Ranger. I really really like this solution.

You'd only need to remove .020" - .030" from the stud to clear the tensioner. On my truck it barely rubbed and I could move it with little force. It did stick, but just barely so. I could easily move it where ever I wanted it to be. I'd wager I could hit the stud with a sanding block and shave enough in a few minutes to miss it entirely.
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airline tech

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That bushing prevents (blocks) you from adding washers as it takes away from what it is designed to do.

1. Alignment
2. Absorb Stress - Bolt & Threads and the upper mounting point (casting)
 

DonS

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I replaced the tensioner I was using from my Escape with a new aftermarket one. I used a Litens brand. It fit perfectly and is working great so far.

IMG_20260508_103504372.webp


IMG_20260508_102959769.webp
Ithom, did you need to do any grinding on the litens??
 

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A quick side by side compare of the 2
Some differences noted (exact dimensions unknown)

Litten's on (left)
Side by Side Compare.webp
 


TJC

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A quick side by side compare of the 2
Some differences noted (exact dimensions unknown)

Litten's on (left)
Side by Side Compare.webp
The Liten has a thinner casting, I can't say whether that is good or bad. I can see why it doesn't rub. I'd rather go with the beefier casting and shave a little off. But then I've seen the damage caused and I'm gun shy.
 
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DonS

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The Litten has a thinner casting, I can't say whether that is good or bad. I can see why it doesn't rub. I'd rather go with the beefier casting and shave a little off. But then I've seen the damage caused and I'm gun shy.
I 100% agree after seeing them side by side.
 

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Well, I went down this rabbit hole, I have ordered all the parts to do this upgrade.

It started because my truck has had a FEAD chirp since new when hot, my trusty dealer gave it the "no problem found" a few times under warranty, then the last time they sprayed belt dressing on everything (idiots) so now that I'm out of warranty, I'm replacing the greasy belts and both tensioners and the idler.
Even though I have a 21, I figured I wont take a chance on it failing.
Thanks for all the ground work everyone has done, that showcases the beauty of this forum, who needs AI when there is plenty of real intelligence here 👍
 
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TJC

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Well, I went down this rabbit hole, I have ordered all the parts to do this upgrade.

It started because my truck has had a FEAD chirp since new when hot, my trusty dealer gave it the "no problem found" a few times under warranty, then the last time they sprayed belt dressing on everything (idiots) so now that I'm out of warranty, I'm replacing the greasy belts and both tensioners and the idler.
Even though I have a 21, I figured I wont take a chance on it failing.
Thanks for all the ground work everyone has done, that showcases the beauty of this forum, who needs AI when there is plenty of real intelligence here 👍
I think it is an intelligent move if you're keeping the truck for the intermediate to long term. It is an order of magnitude cheaper than the failure.
 

TJC

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I just did the same as a preventative measure. Went with the Motorcraft BT114 tensioner from Rock Auto. I know that all the reported failures on here have been 2020’s. Mine is a 2022 and I have an ESP plan. But if/when the oem fails it’s a mess and you’re down for the count. For me it’s cheap insurance. This also appears to be a great fix for someone who has a broken front cover. Besides, I think this gets me over the 5G forum expense for the month. I hope.
BTW, Those bolts worked perfectly.
 

got3fords

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can someone please point me to where I can find the shop manual section that shows how to remove the tensioner?
 

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can someone please point me to where I can find the shop manual section that shows how to remove the tensioner?
From the shop manual:

Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner
Belt Tensioner.webp




Removal


NOTICE: Under no circumstances should the accessory drive belt, tensioner or pulleys be lubricated as potential damage to the belt material and tensioner damping mechanism will occur. Do not apply any fluids or belt dressing to the accessory drive belt or pulleys.


NOTE:
Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details.

1. Refer to: Health and Safety Precautions (100-00 General Information, Description and Operation).

2. Remove the accessory drive belt.
Refer to: Accessory Drive Belt (303-05 Accessory Drive - 2.3L EcoBoost (201kW/273PS), Removal and Installation).

3. NOTE: The accessory drive belt tensioner must be replaced as a complete unit.
  1. Loosen the bolts and remove the accessory drive belt tensioner.
    Torque : 18 lb.ft (25 Nm)
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