Belt Tensioner SNAPPED OFF

[NotBudule2]

The hose is also the fan clutch anti-rotation device. When it breaks, the wires have to keep the fan clutch from rotating and they aren't capable of holding up to that.

Thats why I would like to see a pull apart connector somewhere along the fan harness , so only it gets taken out...

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[TJC]

Thats why I would like to see a pull apart connector somewhere along the fan harness , so only it gets taken out...

Sounds good in theory, but I don't think that will eliminate the problem. If it connects at the sensor it will dangle down into the belt. If it is connected at the engine it will spin at the speed of the fan until it hits or wraps around the belt or fan clutch.

I still think strengthening the hose, and eliminating the timing cover mounting point of the belt tensioner is getting us to a 95% cure of the issue.

I think my hose solution will probably withstand a broken belt, but I'm not going to test it.

I don't think it will withstand a belt tensioner flying around under the hood by a belt still spinning at any engine RPM.

I'll simply change belts every 10 years or 100K miles.

I've not seen anyone who had a belt break or jump the pulley system without a tensioner failure that also destroyed the engine timing cover flange.

Speak up if you've seen, read about, or experienced a isolated belt failure.

 

[Racket]

IIRC @RCMUSTANG designed and installed a complete electric conversion that required altering the BCM programming. An awesome kit (and likely a couple grand) would be a total plug n play replacement using as much Ford parts like the radiator fan shroud and fans from a raptor(?) and custom electrical/electronic modules interfacing along with FORSCAN programming. Violating all the warranties but improving the $h!t out of the truck.

 

[taildraggerpilot]

I had my timing cover replaced, just at the end of the 5y/60k warranty, because of a failed press-fit bearing running the 1920’s technology fan shaft/clutch. The new timing cover has a more robust pulley ear. Ford has known about that issue, per my tech rep.

 

[TJC]

I liked what he did. Impressive!

I would have used a digital dual fan controller and pulled the alternate source load from the AC clutch to switch the fan on when the AC is running, rather then adding an AC pressure bung / switch.

I'm presently going that (digital controller) route with a remote transmission cooler. Taking a little longer than I thought, but definitely doable.

The BCM mod is the harder part for me... How to keep the truck from popping an error when you disable the clutch feedback loop.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

I had my timing cover replaced, just at the end of the 5y/60k warranty, because of a failed press-fit bearing running the 1920’s technology fan shaft/clutch. The new timing cover has a more robust pulley ear. Ford has known about that issue, per my tech rep.

And yours is a 2020 correct?

 

[taildraggerpilot]

And yours is a 2020 correct?

Yessir

 

[Stevedbvik1]

I think I recall a couple of newer years that failed as well.

I do think that the issue is an inherent design weakness and not a manufacturing process or QC one. It is basically a cantilever design. It flexes under sudden shock and breaks. Stupid design, and any engineer (and Ford) knows it.

I spent some( way too much ) time scouring the forum and every single one that was reported failed on here was a 2020. I vaguely remember seeing one or two reports on FB or Reddit and those were 2020’s too.

 

[TJC]

I thought I saw an instance of a 2021 or 2022 that failed, but most were 2020. I think it was after your report too.

It really doesn't matter to me as I own a 2020, and I'm converting to the cylinder mount. It eliminates both failure possibilities, the tensioner itself, and the mounting plate.

Personally I think the tensioner fails and the mounting flange isn't strong enough to handle the increased torque load when when the bearing starts to momentarily seize.

It is a shame that those who experienced this failure didn't note the condition of the tensioner. It would be nice to have the parts analyzed to confirm if the tensioner indeed was the problem.

Got my 10 bolts today, and the tensioner has shipped from RockAuto.

 

[DonS]

I thought I saw an instance of a 2021 or 2022 that failed, but most were 2020. I think it was after your report too.

It really doesn't matter to me as I own a 2020, and I'm converting to the cylinder mount. It eliminates both failure possibilities, the tensioner itself, and the mounting plate.

Personally I think the tensioner fails and the mounting flange isn't strong enough to handle the increased torque load when when the bearing starts to momentarily seize.

It is a shame that those who experienced this failure didn't note the condition of the tensioner. It would be nice to have the parts analyzed to confirm if the tensioner indeed was the problem.

Got my 10 bolts today, and the tensioner has shipped from RockAuto.

Would you kindly post how everything fits when you get it all together . Thank You.

I thought I saw an instance of a 2021 or 2022 that failed, but most were 2020. I think it was after your report too.

It really doesn't matter to me as I own a 2020, and I'm converting to the cylinder mount. It eliminates both failure possibilities, the tensioner itself, and the mounting plate.

Personally I think the tensioner fails and the mounting flange isn't strong enough to handle the increased torque load when when the bearing starts to momentarily seize.

It is a shame that those who experienced this failure didn't note the condition of the tensioner. It would be nice to have the parts analyzed to confirm if the tensioner indeed was the problem.

Got my 10 bolts today, and the tensioner has shipped from RockAuto.

Would you please be kind enough to post how everything fits when you get it all, Thank You

 

[2021Ranger]

Also some said there was a difference in the later years on that support that holders the tensioner. I have a 21 so what’s the difference. I’ll get a pic of mine and post it and can someone with a 19 do the same so we can compair if there really is a difference in the cover.

 

[TJC]

Also some said there was a difference in the later years on that support that holders the tensioner. I have a 21 so what’s the difference. I’ll get a pic of mine and post it and can someone with a 19 do the same so we can compair if there really is a difference in the cover.

I'll post a pic of mine when I make the change.

 

[2021Ranger]

This is the best I could do without pulling the tensioner off..I see ribs in the cover and looks like it’s wedged in there on the back side that I circled.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

I thought I saw an instance of a 2021 or 2022 that failed, but most were 2020. I think it was after your report too.

It really doesn't matter to me as I own a 2020, and I'm converting to the cylinder mount. It eliminates both failure possibilities, the tensioner itself, and the mounting plate.

Personally I think the tensioner fails and the mounting flange isn't strong enough to handle the increased torque load when when the bearing starts to momentarily seize.

It is a shame that those who experienced this failure didn't note the condition of the tensioner. It would be nice to have the parts analyzed to confirm if the tensioner indeed was the problem.

Got my 10 bolts today, and the tensioner has shipped from RockAuto.

So got my bolts and my Motorcraft BT114. Went to install and ran into a snag on my 2022. It mounted up ok to the block. But when I went to untension it to install the belt the was no tension. Where ever I moved the tensioner it stayed and wouldn’t spring back. Thought the tensioner was defective and removed it. Once I got it off I found this. The back of the housing on the tensioner was making contact with the lower mounting boss for the original tensioner. Not very much but enough to create a drag. I’m thinking that my 2022 may have the “beefed” up cover? Add a picture showing the thickness of the mounting boss. Put the original back on and deciding whether to do a bit of grinding on the new tensioner or the mounting boss. But I don’t really want to grind on the boss because you know how Ford can be. Interested in if you run into this when you do yours.

 

[RangerBill]

So got my bolts and my Motorcraft BT114. Went to install and ran into a snag on my 2022. It mounted up ok to the block. But when I went to untension it to install the belt the was no tension. Where ever I moved the tensioner it stayed and wouldn’t spring back. Thought the tensioner was defective and removed it. Once I got it off I found this. The back of the housing on the tensioner was making contact with the lower mounting boss for the original tensioner. Not very much but enough to create a drag. I’m thinking that my 2022 may have the “beefed” up cover? Add a picture showing the thickness of the mounting boss. Put the original back on and deciding whether to do a bit of grinding on the new tensioner or the mounting boss. But I don’t really want to grind on the boss because you know how Ford can be. Interested in if you run into this when you do yours.

Would putting a thick washer or two on each mounting boss on the new tensioner space it away from the timing cover?

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