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airline tech

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The glass shop got the windshield placement corrected. The top driver side is now even with the roof line.

The guy was honest and said they had missed the spacer somehow the first time and the windshield had been pushed too far into the frame, which is funny because that's exactly what I told them had likely happened the first time, although they wouldn't admit it.

The guy I talked with today was not the same tech who installed it the first time. They apparently had ordered a new windshield just in case the existing one was warped somehow. It appears the problem was just an installation oversight.

Truthfully it was one of those things an experienced installer, or one more detail oriented, would have noticed and corrected the first time. But as we all know, skilled, experienced labor is getting harder to come by. Just glad it's correct now. That said, the only way to cleanup that polyurethane without making a total mess is to wait until it's cured, unless you're super careful. So maybe that was part of the unspoken plan to start with. Who knows?

One thing he pointed out was the back fender attachment near the windshield is closer to the glass than on the passenger side. Looks like something I missed when reinstalling the fender. Shouldn't be too difficult to move it down slightly. Then the hinge covers can go on.

It's like being 50 feet from the finish line of a 20 mile journey. Not sure if I'm happy or just thankful this rebuild is genuinely almost over.

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"It's like being 50 feet from the finish line of a 20 mile journey. Not sure if I'm happy or just thankful this rebuild is genuinely almost over."

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XionUAV

XionUAV

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Haven't installed the one-piece drive shaft yet but ended up taking the Ranger on a "test run" through our local desert yesterday and today. It did great.

The doors would bang around a little over rough stuff, and occasionally I'd hear the top of the window frame lose seal, but only over very rough sections of road. With that, I have a new minor clunk in the suspension somewhere when going over sharp bumps, so I'll have to get in there and inspect and tighten up anything needed. I'm not known for driving desert roads slow and sometimes ruts across the road would catch me off guard.

One thing I'm still surprised about is how much pull the little 2.3L has with the turbo. I mean I'm used to turbo cars having owned and driven many, but it still impresses me how quickly it can get up to speed without drama. Definitely not the smoothest while doing it, but does it well nonetheless.

The Vland LED headlights are pretty bright but have a dim area between the high and low beams. The high-beams jitter over rough roads and are a little too high relative to the low beams. But overall they work well, especially for being sub $300 DRL LED's.

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TJC

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One thing I'm still surprised about is how much pull the little 2.3L has with the turbo. I mean I'm used to turbo cars having owned and driven many, but it still impresses me how quickly it can get up to speed without drama. Definitely not the smoothest while doing it, but does it well nonetheless.
Looks like you have a few minor wrinkles to work through, but that is to be expected. You have done a great job bringing your Ranger back from the boneyard. It must be very satisfying.

Ford tuned the engine and optimized the 10 speed shift points when under throttle. They matched the engine torque curves well with the shift points...keeping the engine in its sweet spot.

The truck is at its best when you do not baby it.

If you accelerate slowly, the shift points are much too low and the engine bogs. At least this has been my experience.
 
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got3fords

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The glass shop got the windshield placement corrected. The top driver side is now even with the roof line.

The guy was honest and said they had missed the spacer somehow the first time and the windshield had been pushed too far into the frame, which is funny because that's exactly what I told them had likely happened the first time, although they wouldn't admit it.

The guy I talked with today was not the same tech who installed it the first time. They apparently had ordered a new windshield just in case the existing one was warped somehow. It appears the problem was just an installation oversight.

Truthfully it was one of those things an experienced installer, or one more detail oriented, would have noticed and corrected the first time. But as we all know, skilled, experienced labor is getting harder to come by. Just glad it's correct now. That said, the only way to cleanup that polyurethane without making a total mess is to wait until it's cured, unless you're super careful. So maybe that was part of the unspoken plan to start with. Who knows?
About a week after I had my rear window replaced, I noticed that the vertical gap on the drivers side is slightly more than the passenger side. Nobody else on earth would notice if I didn't point it out. It's close enough, I can live with it.
 
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XionUAV

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Finally installed the Tom Woods one-piece drive shaft. Haven't given it a test drive yet. I want Shawn Woods to verify that the spline section looks correct. first

One thing that seemed odd is the supplied longer bolts for the spacer at the transfer case end were not flange bolts. The bolt hole is recessed so part of the bolt head would fit into the recess. That would leave less bolt head for a socket to bite. I installed washers so the bolt head is flush with the surface.

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TJC

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I have just about that much blue showing on mine. The spline is much longer on the Tom Woods drive shaft, but I suspect you already noted that. I didn't notice the bolt head issue.

I'll be changing oil soon and will take another peek and report back.
 
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XionUAV

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The recessed bolt head isn't an issue as long as you can get a good bite on it with a socket or beefy box-end. It's just proper and preferred to have the entire head of a bolt exposed to allow for the most head contact in order to avoid potential problems.

One thing interesting is the stock flange bolt head size is 15mm and the longer supplied head bolt size is 18mm, from what I recall. There just wasn't enough head bite in the recess to make this OCD engineer and life-long garage mechanic comfortable without using a spacer. A flange bolt would have been the preferred bolt but the supplied bolt and a washer was a completely acceptable alternative.
 

got3fords

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The recessed bolt head isn't an issue as long as you can get a good bite on it with a socket or beefy box-end. It's just proper and preferred to have the entire head of a bolt exposed to allow for the most head contact in order to avoid potential problems.

One thing interesting is the stock flange bolt head size is 15mm and the longer supplied head bolt size is 18mm, from what I recall. There just wasn't enough head bite in the recess to make this OCD engineer and life-long garage mechanic comfortable without using a spacer. A flange bolt would have been the preferred bolt but the supplied bolt and a washer was a completely acceptable alternative.
Is there enough thread contact when adding the washer? I assume you lose about one whole thread.
 
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got3fords

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XionUAV

XionUAV

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Not adding anything constructive to the thread, but this thread has been a GREAT read. Great job with the build, @XionUAV!

Clearly, quality is Job 1!
That is very kind of you. Thank you.

On another note, Shawn at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts said the spline spacing on the driveshaft looked good and he thought the spacers for the bolts were a good idea. Said he might start adding them with the bolts when selling the drive shafts.
 

Chris M

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That is very kind of you. Thank you.

On another note, Shawn at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts said the spline spacing on the driveshaft looked good and he thought the spacers for the bolts were a good idea. Said he might start adding them with the bolts when selling the drive shafts.
Any new news?
Are you finding yourself satisfied overall with your final product?
 
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Chris M

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@XionUAV
How goes it now?
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