Autostop disconnect at battery

[Kemo Sabe]

Don't apologize for that!! It's a forum for a reason. Just saying.. Thanks for the share!!

I agree!! Never hurts to share.

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[Msfitoy]

My 2022 XLT FX4 came without the ASS

Is that another deleted item?

 

[Gizmokid2005]

Is that another deleted item?

Yes, ASS and LED lighting were removed as part of the countermeasures to the chip shortages. You'll see both on the window sticker as removals and discounts on affected vehicles.

 

[JimJ]

Is that another deleted item?

I had asked for it to be deleted when I ordered in September of 21. And yes they deleted and took $50. Off invoice

 

[Ranger6g]

Nice that they can delete it on new ones at least.

I have been tackling this issue at the moment as a new ranger owner. Didn't really want to reprogram anything, disconnect the BMS, buy any dongles etc., nor did I want to push a button every time.

Which made me think that maybe there is something that can push the button for me everytime. I have heard some poeple (maybe even it was this post) that just put a jumper across the switch. Maybe that does work, I was just a little nervous doing something different from what was originally intended, ie holding button down permanently.

So have been tinkering a bit, and realised that on the switch cluster next to the shifter, it seems to have an accessory wire (switched power), an earth wire, and the wire that receives the signal from the button.

From what I can tell from the initial look-see, Pin 7 (solid yellow) appears to be switched power, Pin 9 (white with brown stripe) appears to be the Auto Start Stop input from the switch, and pin 12 (black with purple stripe) appears to be earth.

When i connected pin 9 to earth with a 15 ohm resistor, it toggled the A.S.S. and even better, a simple jumper wire did the same. So I am desiging a little mini-circuit that uses a one shot multivibrator IC (a 1 dollar chip from 1970's technology) and a few bits and pieces to go along with it that will power up with the accessory switch, wait a few seconds, and then send a single pulse to a mosfet (a solid state switch) that will effectively push the button breifly after startup for me. Probalby less than 10 dollars in components, and of course a fair bit of time designing on the couch and building on the workbench. But the prototype works so far. It's a hobby so worth the time.

Thought I'd share what I found so far, and more if I find anything else.

Cheers!

 

[Tom_C]

Nice that they can delete it on new ones at least.

I have been tackling this issue at the moment as a new ranger owner. Didn't really want to reprogram anything, disconnect the BMS, buy any dongles etc., nor did I want to push a button every time.

Which made me think that maybe there is something that can push the button for me everytime. I have heard some poeple (maybe even it was this post) that just put a jumper across the switch. Maybe that does work, I was just a little nervous doing something different from what was originally intended, ie holding button down permanently.

So have been tinkering a bit, and realised that on the switch cluster next to the shifter, it seems to have an accessory wire (switched power), an earth wire, and the wire that receives the signal from the button.

From what I can tell from the initial look-see, Pin 7 (solid yellow) appears to be switched power, Pin 9 (white with brown stripe) appears to be the Auto Start Stop input from the switch, and pin 12 (black with purple stripe) appears to be earth.

When i connected pin 9 to earth with a 15 ohm resistor, it toggled the A.S.S. and even better, a simple jumper wire did the same. So I am desiging a little mini-circuit that uses a one shot multivibrator IC (a 1 dollar chip from 1970's technology) and a few bits and pieces to go along with it that will power up with the accessory switch, wait a few seconds, and then send a single pulse to a mosfet (a solid state switch) that will effectively push the button breifly after startup for me. Probalby less than 10 dollars in components, and of course a fair bit of time designing on the couch and building on the workbench. But the prototype works so far. It's a hobby so worth the time.

Thought I'd share what I found so far, and more if I find anything else.

Cheers!

I think you can do the same thing with a 555 timer. Not sure the equivalent cost. Amazon has 555s for $6, and digi-key for $.50, but you may have to buy a certain amount, and/or pay shipping.

 

[airline tech]

I have posted a couple times on what was done by Ford to eliminate ASS on the 22’s
They removed the switch and changed 2 settings in Hex Lines
1 line disables switch
1 line disables the IPC Indicator for it
The popular Hex line for BMS stays the same and was not changed- it’s been awhile I think it’s in the Forscan Wiki

 

[Ranger6g]

I think you can do the same thing with a 555 timer. Not sure the equivalent cost. Amazon has 555s for $6, and digi-key for $.50, but you may have to buy a certain amount, and/or pay shipping.

Yes, think you are right. I am just using half a 74hc221 and a couple RC segments. Just the path I took, but there was something about the reset or steady state that took me this way, but now escapes me.

I have posted a couple times on what was done by Ford to eliminate ASS on the 22’s
They removed the switch and changed 2 settings in Hex Lines
1 line disables switch
1 line disables the IPC Indicator for it
The popular Hex line for BMS stays the same and was not changed- it’s been awhile I think it’s in the Forscan Wiki

I have not jumped onto the forscan wagon yet but intend to. I did look up forscan wiki and saw only the bit where the BMS was disabled to make it work. Does that mean BMS stays on, and, if I take it to the dealer for whatever and they plug in for an update, will it stay deactivated?

 

[airline tech]

I found them.
Note: Since I do not have the ASS Switch installed, I am not 100% certain this will work without generating faults with switch still installed. Mine was deleted at factory build. ($50-Credit)

I did as built comparisons throughout multiple years and trim levels, looking for differences.
The ones that stood out related to ASS are the following.

FCIM: 7A7-01-01 (0076-81DC-1497) ASS Enabled Truck - Switch Enabled
(0076-80DC-1496) ASS Deleted Truck - (Switch Disabled) (Mine)

IPC: 720-01-01 (2F0F-3464-7271) ASS IPC Screen / Indicator - Enabled
(2F0F-1464-7251) ASS IPC Screen/ Indicator - Disabled (Mine)

So the above (2) hex lines were changed, and the switch was removed for my ($50.00 Credit)

and the popular Hex Line to change and or disconnect the BMS Sensor to disable the ASS stayed unchanged on my 22. So, BMS stayed intact.

Note: When I dug into the BMS system, I was curious about the difference between disconnecting the connector and changing the Hex Code, since mine still had it enabled. This is what sparked my interest in how my ASS was disabled when everyone on here at the time was using this Hex Line or Disconnecting to get rid of the ASS.
So, there are no known Hex line codes to separate the BMS and ASS on this line. 726-48-02, by changing the Hex Line from (1) to (0) disables both ASS and BMS, so this means that changing the Hex Line Code has the exact same effect as disconnecting the connector.
This is why Ford left this Hex Line intact and unchanged.

BMS: 726-48-02 (0100-0000-0179) - With ASS
(0100-0000-0179) - With ASS Deleted from factory.

and a FYI to disable BMS & ASS either disconnect the BMS sensor at the battery, add the aftermarket solution (adapter) which basically pushes the switch automatically at start up or change the BMS Hex Line: 726-48-02 to this change the 2nd digit (1) to (0)

 

[ROBERTECOX]

I just use the button

 

[Ranger6g]

I just use the button

Fortunate for you guys up there! Down here in Australia buttons work differently. ?

 

[Ranger6g]

T

I found them.
Note: Since I do not have the ASS Switch installed, I am not 100% certain this will work without generating faults with switch still installed. Mine was deleted at factory build. ($50-Credit)

I did as built comparisons throughout multiple years and trim levels, looking for differences.
The ones that stood out related to ASS are the following.

FCIM: 7A7-01-01 (0076-81DC-1497) ASS Enabled Truck - Switch Enabled
(0076-80DC-1496) ASS Deleted Truck - (Switch Disabled) (Mine)

IPC: 720-01-01 (2F0F-3464-7271) ASS IPC Screen / Indicator - Enabled
(2F0F-1464-7251) ASS IPC Screen/ Indicator - Disabled (Mine)

So the above (2) hex lines were changed, and the switch was removed for my ($50.00 Credit)

and the popular Hex Line to change and or disconnect the BMS Sensor to disable the ASS stayed unchanged on my 22. So, BMS stayed intact.

Note: When I dug into the BMS system, I was curious about the difference between disconnecting the connector and changing the Hex Code, since mine still had it enabled. This is what sparked my interest in how my ASS was disabled when everyone on here at the time was using this Hex Line or Disconnecting to get rid of the ASS.
So, there are no known Hex line codes to separate the BMS and ASS on this line. 726-48-02, by changing the Hex Line from (1) to (0) disables both ASS and BMS, so this means that changing the Hex Line Code has the exact same effect as disconnecting the connector.
This is why Ford left this Hex Line intact and unchanged.

BMS: 726-48-02 (0100-0000-0179) - With ASS
(0100-0000-0179) - With ASS Deleted from factory.

and a FYI to disable BMS & ASS either disconnect the BMS sensor at the battery, add the aftermarket solution (adapter) which basically pushes the switch automatically at start up or change the BMS Hex Line: 726-48-02 to this change the 2nd digit (1) to (0)

This is impressive work! If I every get into Forscan stuff, will keep this for reference. Thanks!

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