Attempted my first oil and filter change today!

HenryMac

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Well, got the oil changed not real bad job only a couple hiccups. Did verify my wanting the valve. When I removed the factory plug oil shot out and almost hit the passenger tire, needles to say it missed my pan and I now need to de-grease my driveway. Not going to happen next time!

Second learning point. I thought a I found the drain point for the filter trough ahead of and inside the driver side tire. Wrong it's behind the front tire. Another spot to clean on the driveway. Filter wasn't overly tight but the 3 jaw wrench made short work of that. Funny the OEM filter i not the same as the replacement. No issues with the clips. Found it easier to reinstall then with the screws removed and install the screws after the clips/pins were in place.

Next time will be a piece of cake now that the learning is done and the valve is in place.
By the way what is that plastic drain trough on the drivers side ahead of the axle for anyway?
Valve installed 1.jpg
Valve installed 2.jpg
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I say attempted because I never did get the filter off so I ended up just draining the oil and put in new oil. I got access to the oil filter just fine by taking off the trim piece you all posted about. But that filter was royal b!@#$ and I couldn't break it loose. I even went to the local auto parts place and got one of those rachet style filter getter offer things that goes on the end of the filter. I tested for fitment while at the auto parts store to make sure I got the right size matched to a FL910S filter. Brought it home put it on the factory filter and it just spun/too big (wtf). Long story shortened up a bit is the factory filter is different size than the replacement FL910S (why is this?). I tried repeatedly and it fit the 910S nice and snug but was too big for the factory installed filter??? So after much profanity and I didn't have channel locks big enough I decided to call it a day and buttoned it back up. I will have to be content with a job half done. I've ready many posts on here about how easy it is to get this filter off and that they're only on hand tight...…..BS! Or i'm the unluckiest bastard in the world.

To the dealer it goes for the next one.
After the first...it only gets easier.... I was lucky.
 

J Haggerty (RADAR1)

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Well, got the oil changed not real bad job only a couple hiccups. Did verify my wanting the valve. When I removed the factory plug oil shot out and almost hit the passenger tire, needles to say it missed my pan and I now need to de-grease my driveway. Not going to happen next time!

Second learning point. I thought a I found the drain point for the filter trough ahead of and inside the driver side tire. Wrong it's behind the front tire. Another spot to clean on the driveway. Filter wasn't overly tight but the 3 jaw wrench made short work of that. Funny the OEM filter i not the same as the replacement. No issues with the clips. Found it easier to reinstall then with the screws removed and install the screws after the clips/pins were in place.

Next time will be a piece of cake now that the learning is done and the valve is in place.
By the way what is that plastic drain trough on the drivers side ahead of the axle for anyway?
Just changed my oil for the first time today. I had 5953 miles and was down to 27% remaining. Not sure if that 27% remaining life is based on the fact that I pulled a 3,000 lb camper for most of those miles, or because 12 months will be up in November since my truck was built. Getting ready for a trip from GA to WA and back so didn't want to have to change it on the way.

I managed to not make a mess of things, I put a piece of cardboard up as a deflector to prevent the oil from overshooting the drain pan, but I won't have to worry about that next time since I installed the ValvoMax valve. Did you reuse the rubber washer on yours, or just the metal washer? Instructions didn't mention reusing the rubber washer so I just used the metal one. Guess I'll find out if that works as soon as I add oil. I did notice that it seems like there was a blue seal in place also, so perhaps that and the supplied metal washer are all it needs.

I got lucky with the oil filter drain, I saw the front one and thought that was it, until I had to figure out a way to get my filter wrench on the filter and saw the rear trough. I was thinking of buying a wrench that fits over the end with a 3/8 ratchet slot, and like you discovered the filter that came with the truck and the specified replacement would actually require different cap wrenches (Original has 15 flutes and FL-910S only has 14 flutes), so I might just get a three jaw one like you mentioned.

No issue with my clips either. I knew from experience that you can only use a bare amount of pressure on those screws, or they just get pushed back in and never come out.

This is the blue area that looks like it's part of a steel insert for threads into the aluminum pan? Hopefully those indents on the edge won't hurt anything or I'll have to find out why they are there since they were there when I removed the oil pan bolt.
IMG_20200928_135405_542.jpg


ValvoMax installed. Just loosen the end cap by hand, insert the tube that opens the valve, and aim the tube where you want the used oil to go.
IMG_20200928_160929_479.jpg



No worries about the ValvoMax getting damaged from road debris. Debris would have to take out a bunch of other parts and the anti-roll bar before it gets high enough to hit the oil pan.
IMG_20200928_161033_851.jpg
 
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Rp930

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Just changed my oil for the first time today. I had 5953 miles and was down to 27% remaining. Not sure if that 27% remaining life is based on the fact that I pulled a 3,000 lb camper for most of those miles, or because 12 months will be up in November since my truck was built. Getting ready for a trip from GA to WA and back so didn't want to have to change it on the way.

I managed to not make a mess of things, I put a piece of cardboard up as a deflector to prevent the oil from overshooting the drain pan, but I won't have to worry about that next time since I installed the ValvoMax valve. Did you reuse the rubber washer on yours, or just the metal washer? Instructions didn't mention reusing the rubber washer so I just used the metal one. Guess I'll find out if that works as soon as I add oil. I did notice that it seems like there was a blue seal in place also, so perhaps that and the supplied metal washer are all it needs.

I got lucky with the oil filter drain, I saw the front one and thought that was it, until I had to figure out a way to get my filter wrench on the filter and saw the rear trough. I was thinking of buying a wrench that fits over the end with a 3/8 ratchet slot, and like you discovered the filter that came with the truck and the specified replacement would actually require different cap wrenches (Original has 15 flutes and FL-910S only has 14 flutes), so I might just get a three jaw one like you mentioned.

No issue with my clips either. I knew from experience that you can only use a bare amount of pressure on those screws, or they just get pushed back in and never come out.

This is the blue area that looks like it's part of a steel insert for threads into the aluminum pan? Hopefully those indents on the edge won't hurt anything or I'll have to find out why they are there since they were there when I removed the oil pan bolt.
IMG_20200928_135405_542.jpg


ValvoMax installed. Just loosen the end cap by hand, insert the tube that opens the valve, and aim the tube where you want the used oil to go.
IMG_20200928_160929_479.jpg



No worries about the ValvoMax getting damaged from road debris. Debris would have to take out a bunch of other parts and the anti-roll bar before it gets high enough to hit the oil pan.
IMG_20200928_161033_851.jpg
Is that a rubber washer under the valve? I would NOT do that. Aluminum or copper crush washer.
 


J Haggerty (RADAR1)

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Is that a rubber washer under the valve? I would NOT do that. Aluminum or copper crush washer.
No, the dark area to the right of the 24mm nut is just a shaded area where there's a gap between the oil pan and the 24mm nut due to the spacing of the solid washer supplied with the valve.
 

Ranger_Rocks

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No, the dark area to the right of the 24mm nut is just a shaded area where there's a gap between the oil pan and the 24mm nut due to the spacing of the solid washer supplied with the valve.
Without getting up close, does looks like a rubber washer.

Optical illusion !

Image 917.png
 

Rp930

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Good. Just trying to keep you out of trouble. I like the drain.
 

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did my first oil change on ranger last night. wasn't too bad. a couple observations. those push pins sometimes work and sometimes don't. if they don't, you must pry them out with a cats paw. another observation is that the drain plug is torqued very low. i knew this ahead of time and i do have a proper torque wrench so i hand tightened with my 3/8" ratchet by using maybe the closest part of the handle to the end of the wrench. I then used the TW set at 10 ft lbs, it clicked. then 15, it still clicked, 20 ft lbs and it seemed to move but clicked quick. decided 22 ft lbs and no more. i figure it should be able to handle a variance of 10% and if my wrench is reading 22ft lbs but really doing 24, that's not a huge deal. I'd say 40 or more would be on aluminum threads? I have used this same TW on my other vehicles and it's always done well- spark plugs, lower torque drain plugs for other type of components like xfer cases and diffs. it is a cdi as I recall, so a good brand.

the filter came off with my cap wrench. it went back on this way:

i lubed the new oring/gasket around the edge and tightened as much as i can with one hand. I then used the cap wrench and went 1/4 turn in 2 1/8 turn incriments. I have done this with all my vehicles and never had issues removing filter nor having leaks/them coming off. the whole hand tight scares me as some are stronger than others. i am fairly stout but still, i like that extra 1/4 turn.

6 quarts got me to the top of the hashed line. not 100% sure if thats truly full or not but it's in range. i will prolly look at the manual again and try to determine where exactly full is- the top of the hash lines or the dot?
 

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seems per the manual it is the top hole. had to use the pdf version. the paper one was hard to tell....
 

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did my first oil change on ranger last night. wasn't too bad. a couple observations. those push pins sometimes work and sometimes don't. if they don't, you must pry them out with a cats paw. another observation is that the drain plug is torqued very low. i knew this ahead of time and i do have a proper torque wrench so i hand tightened with my 3/8" ratchet by using maybe the closest part of the handle to the end of the wrench. I then used the TW set at 10 ft lbs, it clicked. then 15, it still clicked, 20 ft lbs and it seemed to move but clicked quick. decided 22 ft lbs and no more. i figure it should be able to handle a variance of 10% and if my wrench is reading 22ft lbs but really doing 24, that's not a huge deal. I'd say 40 or more would be on aluminum threads? I have used this same TW on my other vehicles and it's always done well- spark plugs, lower torque drain plugs for other type of components like xfer cases and diffs. it is a cdi as I recall, so a good brand.

the filter came off with my cap wrench. it went back on this way:

i lubed the new oring/gasket around the edge and tightened as much as i can with one hand. I then used the cap wrench and went 1/4 turn in 2 1/8 turn incriments. I have done this with all my vehicles and never had issues removing filter nor having leaks/them coming off. the whole hand tight scares me as some are stronger than others. i am fairly stout but still, i like that extra 1/4 turn.

6 quarts got me to the top of the hashed line. not 100% sure if thats truly full or not but it's in range. i will prolly look at the manual again and try to determine where exactly full is- the top of the hash lines or the dot?
Did 6.0 get you to the line after an engine start? If no, then the filter wasn't full and you should add the .2 quart.

I know .2 quarts isn't that much, but more oil is always better than less as long as it's not above the capacity of the engine.
 

silverflash

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Did 6.0 get you to the line after an engine start? If no, then the filter wasn't full and you should add the .2 quart.

I know .2 quarts isn't that much, but more oil is always better than less as long as it's not above the capacity of the engine.
Of course. Been doing oil myself for decades. I let it run with 6 in it for a few minutes and checked. About right at the top of the hashes. So a hair low but safe. Drove it the next day to town and back so fully warmed up and waited the 15 mins. Literally a hair or two shy of the top hole which to me is perfect. The time after the first start I only let it run a couple minutes so it prolly didn't expand enough.
 
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What size are those clips?
I bought an assortment from Amazon. 6.3mm (1/4") fits perfectly. You can find both the OEM style with the screw or just a pin you need to pry out.

Second learning point. I thought a I found the drain point for the filter trough ahead of and inside the driver side tire. Wrong it's behind the front tire. Another spot to clean on the driveway.
Glad I'm not the only one who made that mistake!
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