Adding Adaptive Cruise Control?

[5G Dan-O]

Ouch
I swapped my headlights for Lariat LEDs. That's not a trivial task.
I may look at running my own harness as CHrisin did

Agreed, just thinking of removing the grill again, has me worried about the clips.

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[micl9]

Well - I have good news and bad news for NA spec Rangers.
Good news we will not have to take the bumper and headlights out ?
Bad news is a new harness will need to be made to go from the CCM to the IPMA.
Below is from my Heated mirror install. This is connector C237 on the drivers side kick panel. You are looking at the harness side that comes thru the firewall. There are no can-bus wires coming from C145. Ignore all the black numbers - what we want is pin 19 and 27, you can see there is no wire

Looks like the can-bus wires are there at the C9224 IPMA and at both sides of C919 and C903. So should be on the backside of C237.

Probably easiest to do as @CHrisin did and tap in at the A-pillar (driver side for us!). Looks like I will go this route as the BN-YE pwr wire is in C913 which is right next to C903 in the A-pillar. Disconnect battery - there is an airbag in the A-pillar! NOTE that the power for the CCM is NOT battery direct it comes from the DC/DC converter

The last connections to the CCM is Ground (pick a spot!).

 

[micl9]

Got the last of my parts today. This weekend will be build the CCM Harness and poke around with ForScan.

 

[Squatchranger]

I tried using ACC on a road trip this week. I probably should reread the instructions, but the issue I encountered was that when I was in the fast lane and was attempting to pass a car in the next lane over, it would slow me down to their speed. I expected that if I were to be behind the other car, but I was beside the car in the other lane.

Yeah thats definitely not right did you do a relocation cause mine tracks properly even when in turns and the car in front is at an angle from me it still tracks perfectly fine

 

[Squatchranger]

Yes I also have pkg sensors - harness swap makes sense. Lets hope the main harness supports the ACC. After all the other things I have done on my truck I would say 50-50 shot its there. Other wise we go as CHrisin has done and tap in.
I may try to find the main harness connector and see if the pinout has the ACC wires this weekend.
I found a full set up with stock brkt and sensor cover for 300 shipped on ebay - cheapest sensor only at thsi time is $200 so I figured it was worth it.
Is this the harness?

As for switches - my cruise control is on the Left and radio controls on the Right. The ACC setups I have seen have the ACC on the Right and the radio controls on the Left. If I dont replace both I will have 2 sets of cruise control and no radio controls. Am I missing it?

Great project by the way - Its been like a year since I have done any major surgery!

I have a lariat my cruise is on the left my radio is the right

 

[JasonTremor]

Yeah thats definitely not right did you do a relocation cause mine tracks properly even when in turns and the car in front is at an angle from me it still tracks perfectly fine

I forgot to follow up on this thread. It seems that mine equally sees cars in the adjacent lane if they or I creep too close to the center line while I'm passing them. Seems equal on driver or passenger side. As long as you don't drift too close, all is well. I kinda like it cause it appears to anticipate someone else it thinks is going to cut in front of you.

Edit:. All stock, no relocation of sensor or lights next to it.

 

[5G Dan-O]

Got the last of my parts today. This weekend will be build the CCM Harness and poke around with ForScan.

Apologies if I'm telling you something you already know but to make the twisted pair wires for the canbus network wires mount the two wires in a vise and the other end in a drill and slowly spin the wires with the drill. It might take a time or two of twisting for the wires to develop a memory and hold their shape. I have someone hold the drill tight while I put electrical tape every foot or so.
I'm mounting my sensor on the rad support with a sensor relocation kit ($40 - in transit) so it measured out to about 8 feet of harness needed - I think I gave myself an extra foot just in case

 

[Squatchranger]

I forgot to follow up on this thread. It seems that mine equally sees cars in the adjacent lane if they or I creep too close to the center line while I'm passing them. Seems equal on driver or passenger side. As long as you don't drift too close, all is well. I kinda like it cause it appears to anticipate someone else it thinks is going to cut in front of you.

Edit:. All stock, no relocation of sensor or lights next to it.

There may be something else at play, the system does use the camera as well it could be an issue with that the camera sees the lines and if you or they are drifting over them it of course cant and would adjust accordingly

 

[micl9]

Apologies if I'm telling you something you already know but to make the twisted pair wires for the canbus network wires mount the two wires in a vise and the other end in a drill and slowly spin the wires with the drill. It might take a time or two of twisting for the wires to develop a memory and hold their shape. I have someone hold the drill tight while I put electrical tape every foot or so.
I'm mounting my sensor on the rad support with a sensor relocation kit ($40 - in transit) so it measured out to about 8 feet of harness needed - I think I gave myself an extra foot just in case

Back on topic (adding ACC not using) Come on guys get a room! ?
Yes that how I was going to do it - but always good to get tips! Question is what length to start with pre twist!
I am thinking ~10ft from the stock location. I plan to use a ground point on the passenger side at the front of the vehicle - assuming I can find it w/o removing the front end! Or I will just make a ground point. I am duplicating Gauge used in the stock harness. C903 and C913 are both at the bottom of the Driver side A-pillar.

 

[5G Dan-O]

I bought a 10 pack of assorted colors of 100' rolls of wire on ebay. I knew the canbus was smaller gauge but it was $50 for 1000' of wire. It's like shopping at Costco - do you need 1000'? - No, but it was a great deal and only $10 more than 4 spools of the same wire. I'll use it eventually.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/312360588335

I bet there was maybe at the most 1' or shrinkage. What I did was have my wife hold the spools and I spun the wires up until I had around 8'. If it was short, we pulled more wire and spun some more until I had 8' total length. I piggy-backed the power and ground wires and ran them all in split wire loom. Figured I'd run the ground wire inside with the rest so I don't open up a failure/corrosion point under the hood. NY State uses salt in the roads in the winter and I've fixed plenty of corroded wires and connections in my days.

I had the pigtail from the wrecked Ranger and heat shrink tubing with heat activated glue/sealer in it so I just soldered and sealed the connections. I didn't use the heat shrink butt splice connectors to keep the harness neat and all inside the split loom.

 

[micl9]

Yeah I know have tons of mutli colored wire now as well! Always good to have on hand!
Not a bad idea on the ground.

 

[CHrisin]

What year is your Ranger? If you're comfortable with sending me the VIN, I can look the diagram up.
I only find Thailand and South African Ranger Raptors in the service documents.

Edit, I'm not allowed access to other country's wiring diagrams - weird.

I have posted 2020 US Ranger here:

View attachment Park (1).pdf

View attachment Park (2).pdf

I had to make a new wiring harness from the bumper to the BCM and update PAM module soft, everything works fine.

 

[micl9]

Just finished making my wire harness. Only scrapped 1 terminal contact. The 18Ga pwr wire had thick insulation which made crimping the terminal on difficult and inserting the wire into the connector. If possible find a thin insulation 18GA wire. I didn't have blank pins so I made some from trimmer line and added dielectric grease to help seal things.
I did find a close ground point right behind the headlight which I plan to use.
Too HOT to try and run the wires today. Need to find a shady spot in the park!

Attached is connector pin insertion instructions

 

[5G Dan-O]

Only scrapped 1 terminal contact. The 18Ga pwr wire had thick insulation which made crimping the terminal on difficult and inserting the wire into the connector.

That's exactly why I'm thankful that that I have the factory connector/pigtail from the wrecked truck.

The trimmer line trick is brilliant!

 

[micl9]

Starting to work on FORScan in prep for running wiring
@CHrisin I dont have PCM Module option (menu changes) only As Built - any thoughts?
@daczone Once the CCM is plugged in will it show up in FOrScan?

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