265/70R17 Toyo A/T III Rub?

virtualshawn

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So the rub thing is new, I haven't gained that much weight! I have a 2.5 level and stock suspension, need new tires so wondering if I should downsize. Rims are 17x8.5. I could go for a 3-level and put a half-inch spacer in the rear assuming that exists. Also wondering if a suspension upgrade would do it. Have a little cash to throw at the problem but also need to swap tires soon. Not super happy with ride quality of the stock FSX suspension but it is a truck.

Or maybe a 3.5 lift. I'm worried if I go to the local shop they'll get me all excited and leave me broke. Fire away the opinions, please!
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virtualshawn

virtualshawn

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Since new, I've been running FP/Fox Leveling Kit with Toyo A/T III LT265/70R17 on stock wheels. No rubbing, great tires, little noise, not rock magnets.

2023-08-20 13 51 58.png
Thanks, how much did the raise the front? Bet the ride is nice, thanks for sharing.
 

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Thanks, how much did the raise the front? Bet the ride is nice, thanks for sharing.
2" higher
Great ride and performance on/off road. Heavier LT tires are a bit more clunky on potholes, mismatched bridge seams, etc.
 


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Hey Shawn,

That offset is giving you some grief (very similar to mine). Here’s something to try first.

Remove the plastic cover from the front crash bars and leave them off.

Loosen the bolts on the front and rear crash bars and angle them further away from the wheels - you might be surprised how much room you’ll gain. Tighten them back up. Now, go try a hard 3-point turn with full steering locks and hard braking and see if it still rubs. This test gives you some compression and full lock, which mimics off-road conditions.

If that doesn’t solve your issue, you could try some high clearance aftermarket crash bars such as ReadyLIFT or BDS. I’m running ReadyLIFT - you can see the amount of extra clearance in the picture below.

IMG_2472.jpeg
 
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virtualshawn

virtualshawn

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Hey Shawn,

That offset is giving you some grief (very similar to mine). Here’s something to try first.

Remove the plastic cover from the front crash bars and leave them off.

Loosen the bolts on the front and rear crash bars and angle them further away from the wheels - you might be surprised how much room you’ll gain. Tighten them back up. Now, go try a hard 3-point turn with full steering locks and hard braking and see if it still rubs. This test gives you some compression and full lock, which mimics off-road conditions.

If that doesn’t solve your issue, you could try some high clearance aftermarket crash bars such as ReadyLIFT or BDS. I’m running ReadyLIFT - you can see the amount of extra clearance in the picture below.

IMG_2472.jpeg
Heck, thanks so much for that, until asked above didn't even consider the offset. I didn't realize I could angle the bars, will give that a go tomorrow, and if no go, I'll go aftermarket. Can't thank you enough, I thought about removing them but doesn't feel right doing so.
 

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A better option would be to go back to the factory wheels. They are lighter and stronger. Also you won't have any rub at the factory offset
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Heck, thanks so much for that, until asked above didn't even consider the offset. I didn't realize I could angle the bars, will give that a go tomorrow, and if no go, I'll go aftermarket. Can't thank you enough, I thought about removing them but doesn't feel right doing so.
Well, I’m glad I chimed in - let us know how it goes.
 

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+18mm or -18mm?
If it's -18 that's a lot. Suspension on these trucks isn't meant for a lot of negative offset. The tire and wheel swings in a wider arc and that's why it rubs.
I had 265/70-17's at stock height on the stock wheels and no rubbing. Have a 1.5" Truxxx level now but that's just so it looks better, didn't need it for the tires.

Or maybe a 3.5 lift. I'm worried if I go to the local shop they'll get me all excited and leave me broke. Fire away the opinions, please!
BDS makes a 3.5" lift. AFAIK theirs is a quality product. Includes a diff drop bracket and I think new upper control arms. Any more than 2.5" lift and you should get new upper control arms.
 
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virtualshawn

virtualshawn

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+18mm or -18mm?
If it's -18 that's a lot. Suspension on these trucks isn't meant for a lot of negative offset. The tire and wheel swings in a wider arc and that's why it rubs.
I had 265/70-17's at stock height on the stock wheels and no rubbing. Have a 1.5" Truxxx level now but that's just so it looks better, didn't need it for the tires.


BDS makes a 3.5" lift. AFAIK theirs is a quality product. Includes a diff drop bracket and I think new upper control arms. Any more than 2.5" lift and you should get new upper control arms.
positive 18, https://www.kmcwheels.com/kmc-dirty-harry
 

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I'll give you credit for the look, but the factory wheels still hold more weight. Why the aftermarket wheels don't hold as.much is beyond me.
 
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virtualshawn

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Well, I’m glad I chimed in - let us know how it goes.
That was easy, Thanks a ton for the tip. No rub but I think I still want the after-market bars, was that an easy install, ie, the old ones slide out, new ones slide in?
 

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That was easy, Thanks a ton for the tip. No rub but I think I still want the after-market bars, was that an easy install, ie, the old ones slide out, new ones slide in?
New ones slide in but removing the old ones requires some facial reconstruction surgery, four root canals, a bowel resection, and a whole lot of cursing.

Two choices…
  1. Cut them out
  2. Remove a lot of stuff to pull them out
Both are no fun and can involve damaging or breaking a few things. There are threads on here about it that will help. I chose option 2 and didn’t cause any damage. The front bars aren’t so bad but the rears require some finesse or you can ruin your wheel well trim or liner.

Cutting them out requires a really good angle grinder and good cutting wheels or a really good reciprocating saw and top quality heavy metal cutting blades (maybe more than one). Bargain bin cutting tools will make this a miserable task.

Good luck!
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