Trucks w/o Tow Package?

[Big Blue]

3500 lbs, but please dont. You can get a hitch for less than $200, and they arent difficult to install.

Bumper tow isnt nearly as strong, and looks cheap as well.

Not to mention with the hight of our rear bumpers most small trailers won't sit level. You need a receiver hitch so you can put a drop hitch mount in to level the trailer.

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[Bludrok]

Not to mention with the hight of our rear bumpers most small trailers won't sit level. You need a receiver hitch so you can put a drop hitch mount in to level the trailer.

Yup, wasn't even thinking about this, but it's absolutely correct.

 

[jsphlynch]

Anyone have an idea of labor costs for the dealership to install factory hitch/harness? They quoted me 5-7 hours at $150 per hour, seems a little high.

There's some older threads on here about installation of the factory hitch, and it is a PITA. Even people who were having dealerships doing it were getting trim pieces broken in the process. I'm guessing that your dealership just doesn't want to have to deal with the headache unless the customer is really making it worth their while. If you're going to go factory and have it installed for you, call around a get a few quotes.

However, I do have to point out that the aftermarket hitches are really easy to install (takes roughly 20 minutes, depending on how long it takes you to find the right size wrench) and less expensive, though I can totally respect that there are other reasons for keeping it OEM.

Normally I would just install a hitch from e trailer myself. But I like the fact that its OEM. This may be a dumb thought but Ford rated it at 7.5k towing with the oem hitch not an aftermarket one. Not that I'll be towing that much but I would like to keep it as close to factory as I can.

If you're going with an aftermarket hitch, you'll be limited by whichever is lower: the truck's max rated towing or the hitch's max rated towing. If you use the Drawtite, you'll have the full 7.5k capacity. If you use the Curt, it's slightly less (I don't remember the exact weight).

 

[Billho]

However, I do have to point out that the aftermarket hitches are really easy to install (takes roughly 20 minutes, depending on how long it takes you to find the right size wrench) and less expensive, though I can totally respect that there are other reasons for keeping it OEM.

Yep, not having done this before, I had thought it would be harder. But I got a Draw-tite for $128 and installed it in just a few minutes. The bolts lined up nicely and it was super easy. Since I only need to pull a 5x10 motorcycle trailer, the 4-pin that was already there is fine for me. Later on, if I need to pull something larger I'll upgrade to the 7-pin harness, but that's overkill at this time.

One important thing is to pay attention to your hitch ball and how much drop it has from the receiver- make sure that your trailer is pulling level.

 

[CHS]

There's some older threads on here about installation of the factory hitch, and it is a PITA. Even people who were having dealerships doing it were getting trim pieces broken in the process. I'm guessing that your dealership just doesn't want to have to deal with the headache unless the customer is really making it worth their while. If you're going to go factory and have it installed for you, call around a get a few quotes.

However, I do have to point out that the aftermarket hitches are really easy to install (takes roughly 20 minutes, depending on how long it takes you to find the right size wrench) and less expensive, though I can totally respect that there are other reasons for keeping it OEM.

If you're going with an aftermarket hitch, you'll be limited by whichever is lower: the truck's max rated towing or the hitch's max rated towing. If you use the Drawtite, you'll have the full 7.5k capacity. If you use the Curt, it's slightly less (I don't remember the exact weight).

The Curt provides a weight carrying capacity of 6,000 lbs. GTW and 900 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 8,000 lbs.

Draw-Tite Provides a Maximum gross trailer weight: 7,500 lbs

• Maximum GTW when used with weight distribution: 8,000 lbs
• Maximum tongue weight: 1,125 lbs

Personally, I would not be trailering without a Weight Dist. system.
Note: I installed the Curt in maybe 20 minutes. Besides Wrenches, you need two C clamps to hold up bumper to the frame while installing it.

 

[Big Blue]

The Curt provides a weight carrying capacity of 6,000 lbs. GTW and 900 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 8,000 lbs.

Draw-Tite Provides a Maximum gross trailer weight: 7,500 lbs

• Maximum GTW when used with weight distribution: 8,000 lbs
• Maximum tongue weight: 1,125 lbs

Personally, I would not be trailering without a Weight Dist. system.
Note: I installed the Curt in maybe 20 minutes. Besides Wrenches, you need two C clamps to hold up bumper to the frame while installing it.

Just remember as has been mentioned earlier. The rating of the hitch does not change the ratings of the truck. The truck is still rated for 7500 lbs GTW and 750 ibs max. tongue weight. a weight distribution hitch also does not change this.

 

[CHS]

Just remember as has been mentioned earlier. The rating of the hitch does not change the ratings of the truck. The truck is still rated for 7500 lbs GTW and 750 ibs max. tongue weight. a weight distribution hitch also does not change this.

Yes, I know but I wonder how many know that the actual tow capacity is 1,650 lbs without a braking system installed per manual. And that's with or without the factory tow package VERY DECEIVING ON THE PART OF FORD

 

[Big Blue]

Yes, I know but I wonder how many know that the actual tow capacity is 1,650 lbs without a braking system installed per manual. And that's with or without the factory tow package VERY DECEIVING ON THE PART OF FORD

??????

Actually bumper tow rating is 3500 lbs. Actual requirement for trailer brakes is subject to state law. It can vary by state. the requirement for a controller is based on the trailer. if it has surge brakes no controller is needed, or if the controller is on the trailer, none is required on the truck. You need to know what your trailer requires, and that is on you not Ford.

 

[VAMike]

Yes, I know but I wonder how many know that the actual tow capacity is 1,650 lbs without a braking system installed per manual

everybody who was smart enough to read the manual before trying to tow something?

 

[CHS]

??????

Actually bumper tow rating is 3500 lbs. Actual requirement for trailer brakes is subject to state law. It can vary by state. the requirement for a controller is based on the trailer. if it has surge brakes no controller is needed, or if the controller is on the trailer, none is required on the truck. You need to know what your trailer requires, and that is on you not Ford.

Just going by what the owners manual states. 1,650 LBS WITHOUT trailer brakes. So I take it that due to the truck weight, brakes, and other Ranger related factors, it does not have sufficient abilities to correctly stop safely above that weight. Nothing to do with laws.
The manual is not stating law but the trucks abilities.

 

[Rangerguy91]

I'm going to go with aftermarket draw tite and install it myself. Too many dealers charging too much for labor. If I DIY it I'm only out $120 for the hitch and $120 for the harness/sleeve. All in still costs less than the factory hitch. From what I can gather there is no real benefit to the factory hitch other than 2-3 inches higher up which only affects approach angle and visual looks. Since I don't plan on doing any off roading I should be just fine with the aftermarket version.

 

[ScrappyLaptop]

I'm going to go with aftermarket draw tite and install it myself. Too many dealers charging too much for labor. If I DIY it I'm only out $120 for the hitch and $120 for the harness/sleeve. All in still costs less than the factory hitch. From what I can gather there is no real benefit to the factory hitch other than 2-3 inches higher up which only affects approach angle and visual looks. Since I don't plan on doing any off roading I should be just fine with the aftermarket version.

Also, that 2-3 inches higher up with the OEM hitch means that you may have to drop the ball 2-3 inches lower.

 

[rcpbob]

Has anybody tried to order part # KB3Z-17D826-D Trailer Hitch, Class IV. I understand this is the factory hitch which replaces the "bumper" reinforcement under the stock bumper (which looks a lot like a trailer hitch) on a truck without Trailer Tow Package, and has the bumper covers to make it a factory look hitch. I've search this part number and no matches come up. Do they not make this anymore ?

 

[Grumpaw]

Might or might not be relevant......
My Ranger with the tow package has the tow/haul switch located on the console, which when engaged, changes the shift parameters of the tranny when towing.
I'm very familiar as my E-450 based motor home has this feature, and it works beautifully.
But, does the Ranger without the tow package also come with this as standard, or is it part of the tow package ? You owners without the tow package....does your Ranger have that switch ? Switch on the lower left side that looks like a trailer.
If not, this might be relevant to those just adding a hitch and plug.

 

[alcohenusa]

Has anybody tried to order part # KB3Z-17D826-D Trailer Hitch, Class IV. I understand this is the factory hitch which replaces the "bumper" reinforcement under the stock bumper (which looks a lot like a trailer hitch) on a truck without Trailer Tow Package, and has the bumper covers to make it a factory look hitch. I've search this part number and no matches come up. Do they not make this anymore ?

You can probably get a code from Benny at Levittown to make their deal better.
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-trailer-hitch-kb3z17d826d

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-trailer-hitch-kb3z17d826d

https://www.varsityfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-trailer-hitch-kb3z17d826d

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