2019 ranger lariat Fuel sensor has gone out. It shows i have no gas all the time. Is this a easy fix?

[Thunderfan1979]

I tried the fuel cleaner and it worked for a day then went back off.
I know I have to drop the gad tank to do the replacement. Any issues, pain in the ass things in the way of doing this? Also any videos out there? I haven't found one.

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[airline tech]

I would have to find it - but the Long Range American Tank Thread has a video I believe for dropping the tank, just reverse for installing.

 

[RangerBill]

Here is the procedure from the shop manual.

 

[Thunderfan1979]

Here is the procedure from the shop manual.

Thanks!!!

 

[DeerSlayer]

It happened to me and the problem was a relay. Mine would drop to the empty. but I would shut the truck off and restart and the gauge wouldgo back to it's right position. It was fixed under warranty.

 

[hookem57]

I would try a relay first. Sometimes as simple as a fuse.

 

[Thunderfan1979]

I'll check that first, do you know the fuse location by chance?

 

[RangerBill]

I would try a relay first. Sometimes as simple as a fuse.

Looking at the wiring diagram for the fuel gauge, I don't see any relay that would affect the fuel gauge reading.

 

[hookem57]

Looking at the wiring diagram for the fuel gauge, I don't see any relay that would affect the fuel gauge reading.

Look at the box under the hood. If it has one that's where it would be most likely.

 

[TJC]

I would exhaust all other possibilities before replacing the pump assembly. I have never had a fuel float arm fail.. It is possible, but I think more unlikely than say a relay or something electrical..

If you do need to replace the fuel pump assembly I'd pull the bed. I know that it is easier than dropping the tank on my 2005 Ranger. 6 bolts and a couple of well placed 4x4s to slide the bed back far enough to gain access the top of the tank. I did have to unplug the rear lights harness.

I am not sure how much more of an effort it is on the 5G Rangers.,,, but so far every repair has been a tad harder on the 5G.

I did successfully clean my clogged injectors on my 2005 Ranger with ATS Chemical 505CRF cleaner. I tried a 1/2 dozen other cleaners and none worked well enough. It may clean up your sensor as well. The stuff is rather expensive, but it may save you the bigger expense and time.

 

[RangerBill]

Here is the wiring and connector location diagrams for the fuel level sender and fuel pump. You can check continuity through all 5 the connectors that the level sender wiring passes through using a multimeter. Start with C4330 connector. Also, check the continuity of the sending unit itself with the meter. It should read about 10 ohms with a full tank and about 180 ohms with an empty tank. It will read between those values with in between levels of fuel in the tank.

Also, check for any DTC trouble codes with a code reader.

 

[airline tech]

Here is the wiring and connector location diagrams for the fuel level sender and fuel pump. You can check continuity through all 5 the connectors that the level sender wiring passes through using a multimeter. Start with C4330 connector. Also, check the continuity of the sending unit itself with the meter.

Correct, however for the Fuel Level Sending Unit (Gauge) is completely separate from the Pump (wiring) but share the Fuel Pump Connector (C4430) which you cannot access unless you lower the tank.
The only true test for this is to pull the assembly and physically move the float from empty to full and measure the resistance as you move it upwards.

C211 is the IPC Connector, so you have to pull it to get access, so from this connector you can test resistance, but the resistance is going to vary - (see below)

The Fuel Level Sending Unit is powered from the IPC, no specific fuse for it, but BCM Fuse 13 (IPC) is feeding shared power.
So, you can try pulling the fuse for (1-Minute) and reinstall

You can use a scan tool and command the Gauge in 25% increments from Empty to Full for a test and you can also do an IPC Self-Test to see if you can bring it back to life.
The IPC Enginering Test Mode - provides a way to access it as well, but I do not remember a test for the gauge in that menu. (Only View)
The only way to truly do it is with a Scan Tool and Bi-Direction (command) the gauge

In a failure mode, (Empty) is the default reading, and it is looking for a Resistance Range - depending on Fuel Level

So, a resistance check with a meter is not a true valid test unless you are completely Full or Empty and even then, can provide misleading results as if the float card has a bad spot anywhere along the card, it will provide inaccurate resistance readings (In-Between Full and Empty)
You can use the Specs as a reference check though.
Full = 10 (+/-) 2 Ohms
Empty = 180 (+/-) 4 Ohms

So, you have some fairly easy options to tap into the (Inline) connectors and test resistance without pulling anything apart.
And those are C408 and C410
But in my experience, unless you have a wiring issue, it's going to be the Fuel Sender, and that is due to design of it - prone to fail.
As you will see (either completely inop or between 3/4 & Full - Gauge Jumps)

C410 (Location)

C408 (Location)

This is where its decision time for you, cheaper option (pull the pump assy) and only replace the Sending Unit ($22.00) or whole assembly Pump & Sending Unit ($370.00) as you only need the sending unit to fix the issue, but it takes the same amount of labor to do both.

 

[RangerBill]

Correct, however for the Fuel Level Sending Unit (Gauge) is completely separate from the Pump (wiring) but share the Fuel Pump Connector (C4430) which you cannot access unless you lower the tank.

The shop manual shows disconnecting the Fuel pump electrical connector before lowering the tank, so it appears to be accessible without removing the fuel tank, although I don't know which connector that the manual is showing, but it is right next to the fuel tank.

 

[Thunderfan1979]

Here is the wiring and connector location diagrams for the fuel level sender and fuel pump. You can check continuity through all 5 the connectors that the level sender wiring passes through using a multimeter. Start with C4330 connector. Also, check the continuity of the sending unit itself with the meter. It should read about 10 ohms with a full tank and about 180 ohms with an empty tank. It will read between those values with in between levels of fuel in the tank.

Also, check for any DTC trouble codes with a code reader.

Amazing, thanks.

 

[TJC]

That connector is right on the top of the pump assembly plate with the hose connections. It is not accessible without lowering the tank several inches, then you 'll be taking it loose by feel. I still think that it is easiest to pull the bed back about 12-16" to access the pump from the top. On my 2005 the tank pump location is right behind the cab in the middle top of the tank.

If you do need to replace the pump, this may be the tool that you'll need to get it out and put the new one in. This is what I needed for my 2005 pump.

BTW, I used a 30" breaker bar with a 36" pipe extension to get the ring to lock on the plate using this tool. I tried a 5lb sledge hammer with a brass punch to lock the ring... to no avail (Although I did break it loose this way).

On my 2005 , the electrical connector was at 1 or 2 o'clock in the picture below.

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