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10R80 struggling with P and R

Kristina

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The truck is not coming out from P at all or if switching from P to R makes loud clunking sound. Not all the time but gets worse.
Driving perfect and of course I’m asking this for a friend.
Now tell me it’s easy fix.
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Trustable

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Mine will do that with drive or reverse out of park. One thing that I’ve noticed is when i fully press brake when shifting then release slowly it doesn’t clunk.
 
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Kristina

Kristina

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Mine will do that with drive or reverse out of park. One thing that I’ve noticed is when i fully press brake when shifting then release slowly it doesn’t clunk.
I tested it on slope (both, nose and rear end up) to see if there is some kind of tense-factor playing.
Went through N and hand brake and everything I could think of. Same. Something mechanical it seems to be. Two different type of clunks I caught, one sounds kind of loud slamming at the times there is this sound and it's always the same, never louder or quieter.
Also tested when cold and after drive, warm.
Didn't wire her, this time I think there is nothing to find.
At least I know I can count on my dealer.
 

IdahoRanger

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I tested it on slope (both, nose and rear end up) to see if there is some kind of tense-factor playing.
Went through N and hand brake and everything I could think of. Same. Something mechanical it seems to be. Two different type of clunks I caught, one sounds kind of loud slamming at the times there is this sound and it's always the same, never louder or quieter.
Also tested when cold and after drive, warm.
Didn't wire her, this time I think there is nothing to find.
At least I know I can count on my dealer.
Sad to hear you are having this issue. Glad you have faith in your dealer.
 


airline tech

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Possibly - check this

Driveline clunk - loud clunk when shifting from REVERSE to DRIVE
  • Incorrect axle lubricant level
  • CHECK the lubricant level. FILL the axle to specification.
    REFER to: Differential Fluid Level Check (205-02 Rear Drive Axle/Differential - Vehicles With: Dana M220, General Procedures) .
  • Excessive backlash in the axle
  • CHECK for excessive axle backlash. ADJUST backlash as necessary.
    REFER to: Ring Gear Backlash Adjustment (205-02 Rear Drive Axle/Differential - Vehicles With: Dana M220, General Procedures) .

Above is possible but probably not your issue, if you are having issues getting it out of park then its most likely a - Brake Shift Interlock issue, this is the system that uses the brake pedal being applied to shift out of park.
Try pressing harder on brake pedal - and note any difference.
or
Shift Lever cable, out of adjustment
Check if Forscan is showing any codes.


PINPOINT TEST G : ENGAGEMENT QUALITY - PARK
Normal Operation and Fault Conditions
  • Unable to shift out of park (vehicles equipped with a selector lever)
    • If the BSIA is not releasing, see condition Brake shift interlock system does not release/lock correctly. REFER to: External Controls (307-05 Automatic Transmission External Controls - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80) .
    • Check the selector lever cable for correct installation and adjustment and verify the cable is not broken. REFER to: Selector Lever Cable - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80 (307-05 Automatic Transmission External Controls, Removal and Installation) .
    • Check the selector lever mechanism for damage, wear or binding. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to: Selector Lever Assembly (307-05 Automatic Transmission External Controls, Removal and Installation) .
    • Check the transmission manual control lever for damage, wear or binding. REPAIR as necessary.
    • Inspect the park pawl and the park pawl actuator rod for damage, wear or binding.
  • Unable to engage park (vehicles equipped with a selector lever)
    • Check the selector lever cable for correct installation and adjustment and verify the cable is not broken. REFER to: Selector Lever Cable - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80 (307-05 Automatic Transmission External Controls, Removal and Installation) .
    • Check the selector lever mechanism for damage, wear or binding. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to: Selector Lever Assembly (307-05 Automatic Transmission External Controls, Removal and Installation) .
    • Check the transmission manual control lever for damage, wear or binding. REPAIR as necessary.
    • Inspect the park pawl and the park pawl actuator rod for damage, wear or binding.
  • Unable to shift out of park (vehicles equipped with a rotary gearshift knob)
    • Carry out the line pressure test. If line pressure is low, refer to the Line Pressure Diagnosis Chart for further diagnosis. REFER to: Special Testing Procedures (307-01 Automatic Transmission, Transfer Case and Power Transfer Unit - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80, Diagnosis and Testing) .
    • The shift-by-wire variant of the 10R80 transmission uses hydraulic pressure from the B and D clutches to push the system out of park. Check the B and D clutches for a does not apply condition. REFER to: B Clutch (307-01 Automatic Transmission, Transfer Case and Power Transfer Unit - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80, Diagnosis and Testing) .
      REFER to: D Clutch (307-01 Automatic Transmission, Transfer Case and Power Transfer Unit - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80, Diagnosis and Testing) .
    • Check the park lock pawl solenoid pin for being stuck extended.
    • Inspect the park pawl actuator rod, TR sensor and park return spring for damage or binding. Make sure all park components are properly installed and connected. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
    • Remove and inspect the park lock pawl valve. If the valve or bore is damaged, INSTALL a new main control valve body. REFER to: Main Control Valve Body - Vehicles With: Auto-Start-Stop (307-01 Automatic Transmission, Transfer Case and Power Transfer Unit - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80, Removal and Installation) .
    • Disassemble the main control valve body and inspect the park lock pawl valve hydraulic circuits for damage, leaks or blockage. CLEAN or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to: Main Control Valve Body (307-01 Automatic Transmission, Transfer Case and Power Transfer Unit - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80, Overhaul) .
  • Delayed shift out of park when external temperature is less than -20°C (-4°F) (vehicles equipped with rotary gearshift knob)
    • Extremely cold ambient temperatures can delay the park lock pawl solenoid valve activation up to 10 seconds. To verify, test operation at operating temperatures.
  • Unable to engage park (vehicles equipped with a rotary gearshift knob)
    • Verify park is not manually released. REFER to: External Controls (307-05 Automatic Transmission External Controls - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80) .
    • Once out of park, the shift-by-wire variant of the 10R80 transmission uses hydraulic pressure from the A, B, C, D or F clutches to hold the system out of park. If any other observable symptoms indicate one of those clutches is stuck on, RESOLVE that symptom first.
    • Check the park lock pawl solenoid pin for being stuck extended.
    • Inspect the park pawl actuator rod, TR sensor and park return spring for damage or binding. Make sure all park components are properly installed and connected. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
    • Remove and inspect the park lock pawl valve. If the valve or bore is damaged, INSTALL a new main control valve body. REFER to: Main Control Valve Body - Vehicles With: Auto-Start-Stop (307-01 Automatic Transmission, Transfer Case and Power Transfer Unit - 10-Speed Automatic Transmission – 10R80, Removal and Installation) .
Possible Sources
  • Selector lever cable installation or adjustment
  • Park is manually released
  • GSM
  • Low line pressure
  • Clutch fault
  • Internal transmission components
 
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Trustable

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I tested it on slope (both, nose and rear end up) to see if there is some kind of tense-factor playing.
Went through N and hand brake and everything I could think of. Same. Something mechanical it seems to be. Two different type of clunks I caught, one sounds kind of loud slamming at the times there is this sound and it's always the same, never louder or quieter.
Also tested when cold and after drive, warm.
Didn't wire her, this time I think there is nothing to find.
At least I know I can count on my dealer.
Okay sorry to hear. Try to keep us updated if possible as while the brake trick works for me most of the time but probably twice a week it clunks loudly. At first I thought it was going over the drain in garage but I have ruled that out.
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