2005 Ranger - Fuel leaking from under the bed, right where the pump exits

[TJC]

Wife drove the 2005 Ranger 50 miles today, and arrived home, stopping at the mailbox at the end of the driveway, to the smell of gas! Found it dripping off the drivers side frame rail. It was migrating down a crossmember and dripping down the rail. It had just started drip when she arrived home. The tank is full and it barely moved off the needle.

Before I remove the bed to inspect the top the tank, has anyone heard of this happening in the 4G Rangers? I installed a new pump 18 months ago and things have been fine since. I'm thinking that maybe a filter is clogged, or pressure regulator stuck, etc,. The truck starts and runs fine even with the leak. I'm hoping that this will be a common problem. I did change out the tank gasket ring, but I don't think that is the problem as there was no pressure in the tank when I opened the tank cap, but gas was still dripping on the concrete. I think it is most likely a fuel line. I know that they are high pressure lines.

I have a sneaky suspicion that the fuel regulator is on the pump assembly inside the tank. The pump was a Ford OEM part.

Any ideas before I open it up would be very much appreciated.

Sponsored

 

[airline tech]

It would require an investigation to be sure, either the tank seal (full tank leaking) or a fuel line connection or the fuel tank pressure sensor (grommet) , if no codes for EVAP have popped up , my guess it’s a fuel line connection and I would think a fuel regulator issue would cause drivability issues

 

[KTM0620]

I have had many older rangers, whenever that happened, has happened on more then one of them. It was fuel filler neck cracked where it attaches to the tank

 

[TJC]

I have had many older rangers, whenever that happened, has happened on more then one of them. It was fuel filler neck cracked where it attaches to the tank

That is a quick check, and won't require the bed to be removed. New hose only or new neck?

 

[TJC]

Thanks all for the feedback. Very much appreciated.

T

It would require an investigation to be sure, either the tank seal (full tank leaking) or a fuel line connection or the fuel tank pressure sensor (grommet) , if no codes for EVAP have popped up , my guess it’s a fuel line connection and I would think a fuel regulator issue would cause drivability issues

I thought about it. The regulator usually fails the other way, leaking, which causes hard starts until pressure builds up. It was still dripping when I started it... didn't hesitate at all. It would be nice if it is just the neck.

 

[PltFX4]

Depending on the 2005's engine and mileage (actually maybe just age) be aware that the vibration dampener on the front of the crank (4.0L anyway) can shear the outer ring from the inner ring (band of rubber glues them together) and raises hell with ignition timing such that it won't run.

LOL, also because of the other thread about transmission cooler, I first though the fuel line may have rusted out, like my transmission coolant lines did on my 2005. But NC is not generally considered a salty state like here in Minnesota.

 

[KTM0620]

That is a quick check, and won't require the bed to be removed. New hose only or new neck?

should be a rubber hose from the filler neck to the tank. I bet there is a crack in it.
it’s been awhile, my last truck was 1997 ranger, I would think be similar.

 

[TJC]

Depending on the 2005's engine and mileage (actually maybe just age) be aware that the vibration dampener on the front of the crank (4.0L anyway) can shear the outer ring from the inner ring (band of rubber glues them together) and raises hell with ignition timing such that it won't run.

LOL, also because of the other thread about transmission cooler, I first though the fuel line may have rusted out, like my transmission coolant lines did on my 2005. But NC is not generally considered a salty state like here in Minnesota.

There is no rust under my 2005 Ranger! It doesn't go out when roads are brined, and all my autos are spoiled (garaged). They see 55F during winter.

I'll keep an eye on the vibration damper. Thanks for the tip. I did have the door cable issue and replaced the cracked / missing plastic cable locks with the nice aluminum replacements. Easy and inexpensive fix.

 

[RedlandRanger]

Depending on the 2005's engine and mileage (actually maybe just age) be aware that the vibration dampener on the front of the crank (4.0L anyway) can shear the outer ring from the inner ring (band of rubber glues them together) and raises hell with ignition timing such that it won't run.

LOL, also because of the other thread about transmission cooler, I first though the fuel line may have rusted out, like my transmission coolant lines did on my 2005. But NC is not generally considered a salty state like here in Minnesota.

I actually had this happen to me with my 2005 Ranger - At first I didn't know what was going on but then saw the "ring" and finally figured it out. I thought it was going to strand me in the woods - we got the ring pushed back on but it came off again while I was driving - I drove for an hour with the belt squealing like crazy, but it got me home. I replaced the pulley and all was good after that.

Funny thing was that it ran fine other than the squealing....

 

[PltFX4]

I actually had this happen to me with my 2005 Ranger - At first I didn't know what was going on but then saw the "ring" and finally figured it out. I thought it was going to strand me in the woods - we got the ring pushed back on but it came off again while I was driving - I drove for an hour with the belt squealing like crazy, but it got me home. I replaced the pulley and all was good after that.

Funny thing was that it ran fine other than the squealing....

Yeah, it was a Saturday I was pulling on to the freeway and accelerating on the on ramp and it let go... did not come off but the engine died and would not restart... one tow truck later and my mechanic had to replace it. Fortunately it only effect ignition timing and not cam timing.

 

[TJC]

UPDATE: Went out and hooked up diagnostics. No error codes. Started the truck and let it run for 5 minutes, no leaks. Noticed gas stains on the bed bottom just above the hose, but no signs of leaking.

I'm going to replace the filler hose. Of course the hose clamp head is facing away from the fender well. Ford thinks a great deal about service! NOT!

I won't know until I take the hose off if that is the problem, but it did have a significant bubble ring above the hose clamp.... a bad sign.

I'm a 3/4 tank and no leaks...

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

That is a quick check, and won't require the bed to be removed. New hose only or new neck?

The filler neck on my 2001 cracked - I think it rusted out. It was an easy fix, that’s for sure.

I recall getting a CEL but I’m not 4imprint certain.

 

[TJC]

The filler neck on my 2001 cracked - I think it rusted out. It was an easy fix, that’s for sure.

I recall getting a CEL but I’m not 4imprint certain.

Just for clarification, the hose was fine, but the neck was cracked? I may just replace both while I'm in there. But I'm a tad nervous that it isn't either. I am hoping it's that simple.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Just for clarification, the hose was fine, but the neck was cracked? I may just replace both while I'm in there. But I'm a tad nervous that it isn't either. I am hoping it's that simple.

Now, you’re testing a senior’s memory - if I recall correctly, there was an overflow tube that fed back to the tank and it had rusted and cracked where it was welded to the wide opening of the filler neck. Everything else was fine but that filler neck “assembly” had to be replaced.

 

[TJC]

Now, you’re testing a senior’s memory - if I recall correctly, there was an overflow tube that fed back to the tank and it had rusted and cracked where it was welded to the wide opening of the filler neck. Everything else was fine but that filler neck “assembly” had to be replaced.

Thanks for the update. Mine is not leaking up that high. I've got both the hose and the steel tube coming. $50!

Went to local parts store and they wanted $175!! Well, that ain't gonna happen.

Started looking around and RockAuto wanted wanted $110

Found the identical parts from the same supplier for $49 from... WalMart!

It won't get it overnight, but I can wait to save $125. Or save $60 from RockAuto's price, and takes longer to get it here with serious shipping charges.

And if my steel fuel filler tube is fine I can simply return the unopened part for a refund to my local WalMart. Then I'm down to $12.

Sponsored