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Block heater element replacement

Trustable

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When the part is available, my local Ford dealership will order it when I take mine in. I'm not going to leave my truck there UNTIL they have the part. It should be available the 1st quarter of 2026. I'm going to ask if it could be removed and capped as part of the recall. This way I don't have to wait for the part.
Ah okay, makes sense then!
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Figarou

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Well, I talked to the service department. I have to wait for the new block heater element. My VIN# shows that one is installed. That's why I received a notice. Since it's in a location that is difficult to get to, I have no choice. If I have them remove the element and cap it off, it won't be under the recall. I'll have to pay. Nice.
 


Frenchy

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In all honesty if you have a special ordered vehicle that came with a Block Heater, then you should keep it. I don't remember what Ford recommends, but I know for my Nissan Frontier(yes I'm aware it's not a Ford) it is recommended to use the Block Heater when Ambient temperature is at or below 20°F. How often does it happen in Texas? Not often if at all. Here in Colorado where I'm at? Certainly more often than where you are located.

In reality the Block Heater is used to Heat the Block and Oil(by first heating the Engine Coolant) and therefore helping the Engine not tear itself up on Cold Start when Ambient Temperatures are below freezing. Even with a Gas/Petrol Engine with an Automatic Transmission it is helpful to have and use. No i didn't have one on my 2019 Ranger, but I know it would have been helpful.
 

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airline tech

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Recall Posted:
No repair info (yet)

Curious on the route they publish to R&R (Remove Intake or It's just right there, get your hands in there and just do it?)
as adding the R&I of the Intake will add approx 2.5 hours to the procedure
 

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Figarou

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DukeCanBuildit

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That’s an interesting thread - the tech manual shots indicate manifold removal and a member who comments later in the thread mentions seeing computer images at the dealer that were accessing it through the wheel well - the method @airline tech suggested.

If you read earlier replies, you’ll see a price at the time of $280 in parts and $700 in labour - that might include the wiring but it’s still going to be a big job.

When it comes time to perform this recall, I’m asking my service advisor to call me after their techs have a bunch of these change-outs under their belts first.
 
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Figarou

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That’s an interesting thread - the tech manual shots indicate manifold removal and a member who comments later in the thread mentions seeing computer images at the dealer that were accessing it through the wheel well - the method @airline tech suggested.

If you read earlier replies, you’ll see a price at the time of $280 in parts and $700 in labour - that might include the wiring but it’s still going to be a big job.

When it comes time to perform this recall, I’m asking my service advisor to call me after their techs have a bunch of these change-outs under their belts first.
And here is the revised instructions.
 

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DukeCanBuildit

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Thanks for posting,

Ah, the simplicity of drawings. They do make it look a lot easier than it will be.

If you do your own oil changes, take a look in there next time. It’s in there about a foot deep and airline tech is right about the starter being an obstacle. The steel wheel well arch is also a bit of a challenge.

Even if you’re simply curious, retract that splash shield and have a look. Yikes!

IMG_5793.webp
 
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Figarou

Figarou

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Thanks for posting,

Ah, the simplicity of drawings. They do make it look a lot easier than it will be.

If you do your own oil changes, take a look in there next time. It’s in there about a foot deep and airline tech is right about the starter being an obstacle. The steel wheel well arch is also a bit of a challenge.

Even if you’re simply curious, retract that splash shield and have a look. Yikes!

IMG_5793.webp

Yes, I do my own oil changes. It's not unfamiliar territory. 😉 I MIGHT be able to plug it with a cap. What I need is the right tool.
 

Stevedbvik1

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Yes, I do my own oil changes. It's not unfamiliar territory. 😉 I MIGHT be able to plug it with a cap. What I need is the right tool.
If you’re thinking you can cap the block heater without removing it take a look at the images of it and the cord/plug. The red rubber portion of the cord plugs into the block heater. Then the nut is tightened to squish the red rubber to seal into the block heater. So it’s already plugged and will not leak antifreeze out or let water in. If you’re thinking of removing the block heater then you have to drain the coolant and remove the heater. Then you could use a pipe plug with the same thread to plug the hole left by removing the block heater.

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