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cocheese72

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Were those times just idling? I believe you can drive it for warm up once you add oil, run through each gear for 5 seconds, then park, and ensure oil is between the diamond and the 6 level.
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TJC

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Were those times just idling? I believe you can drive it for warm up once you add oil, run through each gear for 5 seconds, then park, and ensure oil is between the diamond and the 6 level.
I do not think you understand the dipstick chart. ALL of those readings are exactly the same level of fluid in the transmission, just at different temperatures.

I initially filled the transmission to the middle of the diamond between 4 and 5 when the fluid temp was at 215F. I then let the temps cool down to 190F measuring with the dipstick at 5F and 10F increments. The transmission will not cool down below 190F while running, even at idle.

So I let the truck sit overnight and from a cold start began measuring the fluid temp with truck on but not running, The fluid did not register on the dipstick overnight, (but left for several days I'm sure it would as it continues to drain for several days - I know this because I tested for it hoping to fill the transmission in a static condition... can't be done except the first fill at the plant.)

I then started the truck, ran through the gears at 5 second intervals from park to sport and back to park, and immediately measured the level. It is the very first measurement on the dipstick - 1/8" up the stick.

Remember that this is the correct level of fluid at the Ford Spec of 215F (the top of the heat window) and dead center of the fluid window - the diamond between 4 and 5.) I chose those targets to allow for a little play to prevent overfilling and still be well within the measurement spec.

I continued to measure the time to reach the lower temps you see on the chart up to 180F. The ambient air temp on that morning was 75F and the transmission fluid temp was 77.4F as measured from the Ford transmission fluid temp sensor.

So for example, it took 11:30 from the turn of the key at idle for the temperature of a properly filled transmission to reach 120F and the fluid level showed at the first diamond on the dipstick. I tracked each 10F increment but didn't show them all to space constraints on the chart, for instance 130F was at the first hash mark on the dipstick but is not shown.

Without measuring the fluid temp, there is no way you could accurately fill the transmission. You have to drive the truck extremely hard to get trans fluid temps into the measurement window. I had to power brake the transmission (put trannie in drive, hold the brake, and raise to 2K RPMs and wait several minutes to get the temps between 205F-215F. The torque converter will generate a lot of heat if you do this.

Sustained driving down the interstate at 75mph won't get the temps to the measurement window of 205F- 215.

It is very easy to overfill. I know because I have done it. When you overfill, the truck will run fine until your temps rise above 190F-198F, which the transmission typically runs at. But if you hit that 205-215F window, the fluid will expand so much that it will begin to foam from pump cavitation, overheat and puke out the vent. Extremely hot foaming fluid will kill your transmission just as quickly as too low or dirty fluid.

Finally I did this work to allow Ranger owners with the MBS dipstick to use a definable repeatable process to correctly fill their transmissions without the need to monitor the fluid temp.

If you simply drove your truck for say, 30 minutes, and parked it level, your fluid temp will probably be between 190F and 200F. At idle you should be seeing the fluid level between 5 and the first hash mark above 5.

But the easiest way to insure your fluid level is correct it to simply park your truck overnight on a flat level surface, start it the next morning, shift it through the gears - Park to sport and back to Park at 5 second intervals, then immediately hop out and check the level. It should just be showing on the tip of the dipstick, up to 1/8". If you are not seeing it you are under filled.
 

got3fords

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But the easiest way to insure your fluid level is correct it to simply park your truck overnight on a flat level surface, start it the next morning, shift it through the gears - Park to sport and back to Park at 5 second intervals, then immediately hop out and check the level. It should just be showing on the tip of the dipstick, up to 1/8". If you are not seeing it you are under filled.
Just for my clarity, the truck is idling when using this method? Awesome info.
 

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Just for my clarity, the truck is idling when using this method? Awesome info.
Yes, cold start (after sitting over night) idling....

Start truck and let it idle, run through the gears at 5 second intervals, Park to Sport, and back to Park.

Check the fluid immediately, fluid should be showing just on the tip of the dipstick up to 1/8". Test was done at ambient air temp of 75F with fluid at 77.4F.

Every reading <= 180F was measured the same day as the idle test... the morning after the power brake test that set the fluid level at the diamond between 4 and 5. The test readings that I made the day before from power braking went to a high of 235F, then idling to cool down to 190F.

The truck never moved from it's position for both runs and the 215F temp at the diamond between 4 and 5 was measured when the temp came down from the high of 235F.

When power braking it is difficult to know when to stop the power brake cycle. I left off the gas and put the truck in park at 215F, but temp continued to rise to the peak of 235F before starting back down. I captured the levels there as well, just did not document them in my report to this forum. 215F was always my target temp to measure as it was at the top of the Ford Spec window.... 206F-215F.
 
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got3fords

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Yes, cold start (after sitting over night) idling....

Start truck and let it idle, run through the gears at 5 second intervals, Park to Sport, and back to Park.

Check the fluid immediately, fluid should be showing just on the tip of the dipstick up to 1/8".

Test was done at ambient air temp of 75F with fluid at 77.4F.

Every reading <= 180F was measured the same day as the idle test. The test readings that I made the day before were from a high of 235F down to 190F. The truck never moved from it's position and the 215F temp at the diamond between 4 and 5 was measured when the temp came down from the high of 235F.

When power braking it is difficult to know when to stop the power brake cycle. I stopped at 215F, but temp continued to rise to the peak of 235F before starting back down. I captured the levels there as well, just did not document them in my report to this forum. 215F was always my target temp to measure as it was at the top of the Ford Spec window.... 206F-215F.
I don't think I would ever be able to check first thing after sitting all night, my driveway is not all that level. I can check it at work as the parking is very level.
 


TJC

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I don't think I would ever be able to check first thing after sitting all night, my driveway is not all that level. I can check it at work as the parking is very level.
If you have a way to read the transmission temperature, simply find a flat level surface, put the truck in park, read your temperature, then check it against the dipstick image below. 190F-200F your fluid level should be between 5 and the first hash mark above 5.

The fluid level is identical at each measurement.

By centering the fluid level at the diamond between 4 and 5 at 215F, I tried to give a safety margin. I'm a little on the low side of fluid, but well within the Ford spec, which calls for temps to be 206F - 215F with a range between 5 and 4.

My 235F reading was just below the first hash mark above 4.

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got3fords

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If you have a way to read the transmission temperature, simply find a flat level surface, put the truck in park, read your temperature, then check it against the dipstick image below. 190F-200F your fluid level should be between 5 and the first hash mark above 5.

The fluid level is identical at each measurement.

By centering the fluid level at the diamond between 4 and 5 at 215F, I tried to give a safety margin. I'm a little on the low side of fluid, but well within the Ford spec, which calls for temps to be 206F - 215F with a range between 5 and 4.

My 235F reading was just below the first hash mark above 4.

1754330466533-dx.png
Best I can do with what I have is a Fluke infrared temp gage. Should be pretty close if I can get under there and point it at the pan.
 

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But the easiest way to insure your fluid level is correct it to simply park your truck overnight on a flat level surface, start it the next morning, shift it through the gears - Park to sport and back to Park at 5 second intervals, then immediately hop out and check the level. It should just be showing on the tip of the dipstick, up to 1/8". If you are not seeing it you are under filled.
The service manual sets the oil just under 6 before a test drive. Are you recommending lower than this?

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TJC

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I own several types of thermal units that measure in multiple ways.

I can check the temps with my different systems to see which is unit closest to the Ford fluid temps.

Is your transmission pan aluminum or the original Ford plastic? I have installed the PPE Deep Aluminum pan, so I won't be of much help if you are running the Ford stock pan.

I do think the safest and easiest way to measure is the cold start check, but you need to be on a level surface.

I'm preparing for neck surgery that was scheduled for this Friday, but a last minute glitch is going to move it out a bit (I have 2 ruptured discs that need to be replaced due to pinching nerves from C5-C6 and C6-C7. Arms are going numb, and must get this done before damage is permanent. So it will be a 2 month wait after surgery before I can get to it.

In the meantime I am catching up on my Honey Do list before the I go under the knife. I will have a nice 2" scare in my throat to brag about after this is over!

This is a result of my driving my tractor off a 5' terrace wall ~2 years ago. I thought that the damage was limited to my legs, but I have a 20% tear in my left shoulder rotator cuff as well... The gift that keeps on giving!
 

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Measure it after work before heading home. It will be cold and eliminate having to find a way to get temps if you don’t have a gauge.
 

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If you have a way to read the transmission temperature, simply find a flat level surface, put the truck in park, read your temperature, then check it against the dipstick image below. 190F-200F your fluid level should be between 5 and the first hash mark above 5.

The fluid level is identical at each measurement.

By centering the fluid level at the diamond between 4 and 5 at 215F, I tried to give a safety margin. I'm a little on the low side of fluid, but well within the Ford spec, which calls for temps to be 206F - 215F with a range between 5 and 4.

My 235F reading was just below the first hash mark above 4.

1754330466533-dx.png
Tony. Totally appreciate your hard work & technical advice trying to help us all come to grips with Fords screwed up approach on checking & filling to the correct level. I see why people have trouble getting it correct. I know you stated pumping 5 qts out & letting it sit overnight you get another 2qts. I understand that having an empty pan lets the internals have someplace for the extra fluid to drain. That being said I have an off the wall question. If by your calculations knowing the fluid level is full, & being able (like some of us are able to do) let the truck sit for a week or a few days, & check the level on the Fitxstix totally cold with no running. So I quess I am asking would there be a cold high fluid level that would reflect to your hot fluid level of full. 🤔 What a mouth full.
 

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Tony. Totally appreciate your hard work & technical advice trying to help us all come to grips with Fords screwed up approach on checking & filling to the correct level. I see why people have trouble getting it correct. I know you stated pumping 5 qts out & letting it sit overnight you get another 2qts. I understand that having an empty pan lets the internals have someplace for the extra fluid to drain. That being said I have an off the wall question. If by your calculations knowing the fluid level is full, & being able (like some of us are able to do) let the truck sit for a week or a few days, & check the level on the Fitxstix totally cold with no running. So I quess I am asking would there be a cold high fluid level that would reflect to your hot fluid level of full. 🤔 What a mouth full.
That was my first attempt, and the fluid level kept rising for a week. I finally gave up knowing that whatever I reported would be too easy to get wrong. It just wasn't consistent enough without getting down to measuring to the number of hours instead of days.

I wait 3 days before I change the fluid and get 7.5 qts out. Only get 5 if I wait overnight. And when I pumped out the 7.5, I had another 0.5-0.75 or so in the pan when I replaced it.

You really don't need to check the fluid hot.

Let the truck sit level overnight, start it up, shift through the gears at 5 second intervals Park to Sport and back to Park, Hop out and immediately check you fluid level. It should be just showing on the tip of the dip stick up to 1/8". I can safely say that if it is not showing on the dipstick you are low. This will work well if your outside air temp is +- 10F of 75F (65F-85F). You will still be well within the 4-5 range, at least based upon my calculations.

Check it quickly, don't wait. In 11.5 minutes it will be at 120F and at the middle of the first diamond.

And if you start timing it from the start of the engine, you can validate the level at each milestone that I marked on the dipstick, just wait for 11.5 minutes, check the fluid and it should be at the middle of the first diamond (120F). You can do this for each times that I have listed below the chart.
 

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Well I obviously need to suck some more out. I checked it this morning after getting to work. Outside temp upper 60's. I am guessing the trans temp to be somewhere between 180-190. I couldn't find my infrared meter. The level was showing around 3-4.
 
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As of August 2025 the price is going up $10, this is to prepare for the coming tariffs, they will now be $189.00, as it is, I only have enough materials to make about 150 more dipsticks, the components to build the next round of dipsticks will be subject to heavy tariffs.
I wish it didn't have to go this way, initially, I really tried to source all my stuff locally in the US, there is just no way the US mfg can compete with China on small quantities of little parts like I need.

Now with the tariffs, I'm not sure how much more it will be, one supplier said it was going up 176%, but that was before the US backed down on the tariff percentages, another one said I'll pay up to 3X more for some of the items to build the dipsticks.

I guess I will find out as I reorder all the components to build more dipsticks.

I do want to thank all the customers who have purchased dipsticks, as well as the future customers.

I would like to think that the product quality is good enough to support a small price increase, I have to do something, I don't want the tariffs to end up putting me out of business.

Thanks,
Mike
 

got3fords

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You do what you need to do. I think this whole tariff thing will eventually settle out to our benefit. The Fitzstick is still well worth it.
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