Fitzstick Installation Tips?

[harringtondav]

I'm taking a break from my Fitzstick installation. As the instructions stated, getting the OEM fill plug out is tough, and has me stumped so far. Going after it from under the truck isn't working. ...no room for leverage.
So I stacked every socket extension I own, with a U joint swivel on the 19mm socket to get at it from the top. I can get a breaker bar or my impact on it, but no-go still. The chain of extensions is a bit wimpy with a few 3/8 spliced in with the 1/2 and lots of joints. The 30 deg swivel angle isn't helping.
I gave the plug a squirt of PB Blaster before a beer and cigar break, but I'm not holding my breath.
My plan is to buy more 1/2 extensions, maybe a 20" to reduce the stack up and twist. Also I'm considering heat from a heat gun or propane torch.
I know several of you got the stick installed. What was your trick? TIA, Dave

Sponsored

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Go in from the passenger side wheel well. Behind the rubber flap it’s a pretty straight shot to the plug using a breaker bar or long ratchet. Might have to take the tire off for easier access. Thats how I got mine out. Just can’t remember if I removed the tire or not

 

[Fitzmotor]

I'm taking a break from my Fitzstick installation. As the instructions stated, getting the OEM fill plug out is tough, and has me stumped so far. Going after it from under the truck isn't working. ...no room for leverage.
So I stacked every socket extension I own, with a U joint swivel on the 19mm socket to get at it from the top. I can get a breaker bar or my impact on it, but no-go still. The chain of extensions is a bit wimpy with a few 3/8 spliced in with the 1/2 and lots of joints. The 30 deg swivel angle isn't helping.
I gave the plug a squirt of PB Blaster before a beer and cigar break, but I'm not holding my breath.
My plan is to buy more 1/2 extensions, maybe a 20" to reduce the stack up and twist. Also I'm considering heat from a heat gun or propane torch.
I know several of you got the stick installed. What was your trick? TIA, Dave

I would try a box end wrench from below, get it at an angle where you can tap on it with a hammer, shocking it with a hammer will break it loose easier than with a extension from above..

From above requires 1/2 drive if it's really tight, 3/8 flexes too much.

Through the fender well is an option, but that requires taking the tire off.

Also get the transmission warm/hot that helps as well.

Good luck!

Mike

 

[harringtondav]

I would try a box end wrench from below, get it at an angle where you can tap on it with a hammer, shocking it with a hammer will break it loose easier than with a extension from above..

From above requires 1/2 drive if it's really tight, 3/8 flexes too much.

Through the fender well is an option, but that requires taking the tire off.

Also get the transmission warm/hot that helps as well.

Good luck!

Mike

Thanks. I've used the hammer persuader successfully elsewhere, but I couldn't get any meaningful purchase today. I'll pull the wheel and flap before I put any more time into the top approach.

 

[JoeC]

Go in from the passenger side wheel well. Behind the rubber flap it’s a pretty straight shot to the plug using a breaker bar or long ratchet. Might have to take the tire off for easier access. Thats how I got mine out. Just can’t remember if I removed the tire or not

Yup, that's how I got mine out.
(I also had tried the extensions from above with no luck)
Took the wheel off and had plenty of room to go in with a 19mm on a 1/2 in breaker bar.
Done.

 

[TJC]

I went through the wheel well too. Worked for me with a big pull bar.

 

[got3fords]

You must have an extra stubborn one. I have 1.5" lift and had plenty of room to work with from below. I think I just used a regular ole 19mm combination wrench and found just the right angle to break it free. Then it just turned right out.

 

[harringtondav]

You must have an extra stubborn one. I have 1.5" lift and had plenty of room to work with from below. I think I just used a regular ole 19mm combination wrench and found just the right angle to break it free. Then it just turned right out.

Mine has been settling in for 4 1/2 yrs. I'm pretty sure the OEM cap is stainless. I've been working on marine applications for stainless in aluminum for 28 yrs. Ugly corrosion. I recently removed two SS cap screws from my 'new' three year old Volvo Penta alum out drive and I thought I was going to tear out the alum threads on one. Anti seize on reassembly is the cure.
My Ranger is on stands high enough, but I'm not the man I once was when it comes to armstrong.
Tomorrow I'll try more panther pee, some heat and the hammer the on comb wrench, then the impact again. Then a breaker bar through the wheel well. I don't give up, and am rarely defeated.

 

[TJC]

I used a 30" breaker bar with a long extension. It popped hard when it finally broke free, then came right out.

 

[Fitzmotor]

Mine has been settling in for 4 1/2 yrs. I'm pretty sure the OEM cap is stainless. I've been working on marine applications for stainless in aluminum for 28 yrs. Ugly corrosion. I recently removed two SS cap screws from my 'new' three year old Volvo Penta alum out drive and I thought I was going to tear out the alum threads on one. Anti seize on reassembly is the cure.
My Ranger is on stands high enough, but I'm not the man I once was when it comes to armstrong.
Tomorrow I'll try more panther pee, some heat and the hammer the on comb wrench, then the impact again. Then a breaker bar through the wheel well. I don't give up, and am rarely defeated.

The cap is aluminum, it's pretty thin, if you tap on it side to side you can loosen it up a little.

Good luck!

 

[Cabose-1]

There are a few you tube videos online.
I used extensions from the engine bay to loosen mine easy peasy.

Just take your time. Watch you tube for tips, and work on a cool day. Heat can get anyone heated up fast

 

[Ranger_Rocks]

As many have commented, accessing and removing the OEM cap was a challenge. We have the FP/Fox leveling kit which provided enough clearance to work underneath laying on my low profile creeper. I was unable to break the OEM cap loose. Not enough room to comfortably swing a hammer attempting to hit a wrench on the OEM cap.

To go in from the top, I would need to buy long extensions that would likely never be used again.

I turned the wheels full left, removed the liner, then easily removed the OEM cap with a 12" long 3/8 inch drive flex handle breaker bar, 3/4" deep well socket, and 24 inch section of 1/2" steel pipe for reach. My tool collection does not contain a 19mm deep well socket. I used 3/4" deep well. NOTE: 3/4" = 19.05mm

This method provided the best torque angle with plenty of clearance for swinging the bar to the right and easily removing the OEM cap.

For more wire bundle clearance, I did remove the light colored christmas tree fastener below the stick, pushed the harness below the metal attachment tab, then secured with a plastic tie.

Plenty of distance from the A/C tubing.

 

[Tom_C]

Mine must have been removed at the dealer, cause it popped loose quickly using a 19mm extra long flex-head ratcheting wrench.

 

[Vrapnyc]

I'm taking a break from my Fitzstick installation. As the instructions stated, getting the OEM fill plug out is tough, and has me stumped so far. Going after it from under the truck isn't working. ...no room for leverage.
So I stacked every socket extension I own, with a U joint swivel on the 19mm socket to get at it from the top. I can get a breaker bar or my impact on it, but no-go still. The chain of extensions is a bit wimpy with a few 3/8 spliced in with the 1/2 and lots of joints. The 30 deg swivel angle isn't helping.
I gave the plug a squirt of PB Blaster before a beer and cigar break, but I'm not holding my breath.
My plan is to buy more 1/2 extensions, maybe a 20" to reduce the stack up and twist. Also I'm considering heat from a heat gun or propane torch.
I know several of you got the stick installed. What was your trick? TIA, Dave

This should help!

 

[MarkCl]

I'm taking a break from my Fitzstick installation. As the instructions stated, getting the OEM fill plug out is tough, and has me stumped so far. Going after it from under the truck isn't working. ...no room for leverage.
So I stacked every socket extension I own, with a U joint swivel on the 19mm socket to get at it from the top. I can get a breaker bar or my impact on it, but no-go still. The chain of extensions is a bit wimpy with a few 3/8 spliced in with the 1/2 and lots of joints. The 30 deg swivel angle isn't helping.
I gave the plug a squirt of PB Blaster before a beer and cigar break, but I'm not holding my breath.
My plan is to buy more 1/2 extensions, maybe a 20" to reduce the stack up and twist. Also I'm considering heat from a heat gun or propane torch.
I know several of you got the stick installed. What was your trick? TIA, Dave

I just installed one. The cap on the transmission was a bitch. It is a steel cap in aluminum, so it galls into place. Like you, I used a stack of extensions and a swivel socket with a 2 foot breaker bar. I positioned the stack as close toward the firewall as possible and really had to put some muscle into it. I tried several times keeping the swivel socket as straight as possible, and finally it broke loose. I looked at going through the wheel well but with the amount of force I had to use I am not sure that would have worked because of the confines of the wheel well. After I got the cap loose I spent the better part of an afternoon trying to get the stick threaded down in the right position and connected to the adapter. It did not fall into place as advertised, but rather kept wanting to hang up on the wire bundle on the side of the transmission. Watch out for the wire going to the O2 sensor. It will hang up on that too. Also, leave the cap on the end of the stick so dirt doesn't get into it, and take it off only when it is positioned right. Don't forget to take out the factory dipstick after the cap comes loose.

Sponsored