Some dyno results for the naysayers.

[yamahaSHO]

Sorry, I misread it on my phone in following the graphs and trying to read the run numbers.

That said, there's not a whole lot of difference between the red and green, though green is better. They are both peaky torque curves, which is what is hard on rods/bearings/wrist pins.

Again, that "swell" is common of a small turbo. Here is a Subaru doing the same thing. A lot of tuners do this... Ramp up boost about as high as it will take, then it inevitably drops.

Where this is what I would consider a flattening of average torque.

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[importfighter01]

I think ZincGT is the only Ranger I’ve seen with a bigger turbo (says it’s the worlds highest HP Ranger on YT). Maybe once the warranty is up I’ll consider and go HP Tuners. I need to research how the Focus RS does with turbo upgrades as some sort of point of reference. The 10R80 can take the power no problem, so I need to review what the engine can handle safely.

 

[Loweredon33s]

I think ZincGT is the only Ranger I’ve seen with a bigger turbo (says it’s the worlds highest HP Ranger on YT). Maybe once the warranty is up I’ll consider and go HP Tuners. I need to research how the Focus RS does with turbo upgrades as some sort of point of reference. The 10R80 can take the power no problem, so I need to review what the engine can handle safely.

I really don’t see any reason to do it…. for me honestly. You might have a reason but in my opinion it doesn’t make sense unless you’re trying to move all your power higher up and running e85 or something similar.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I think ZincGT is the only Ranger I’ve seen with a bigger turbo (says it’s the worlds highest HP Ranger on YT). Maybe once the warranty is up I’ll consider and go HP Tuners. I need to research how the Focus RS does with turbo upgrades as some sort of point of reference. The 10R80 can take the power no problem, so I need to review what the engine can handle safely.

I use HP Tuners on my truck and also a HP Tuners dealer. I don't drive my truck as much as I want to right now, but I have done tuning on my transmission. I am looking to bump the power here soon, but this isn't a race truck for me, so it hasn't been a big concern. I wanted to make the drive much more enjoyable, which it is now... and on a side gain, I've picked up MPG's.

The only mod I've done for 'performance' is a Mountune intercooler. This will eventually take tow duty away from my Jeep, so I wanted to ensure that I can keep cool virtually anywhere.

 

[Langwilliams]

I went with a tune for better response an quicker off the line/0-60. I don't worry about peak numbers either so I went back to the 87-89 tune to get better control on take offs. I want improved performance without sacrificing long term reliability or engine life. It's fun surprising someone with a strong run to 60. I take it easy 90% of the time an just enjoy the rush now an then on an open on ramp.

My question to you guys that are really into tuning an know the ins and outs is do the mass produced tunes like Ford Performance an Livernois update when bolt on items are added? Stuff like a better cat back, air box intercooler tubes? I figure these canned tunes are developed off a baseline vehicle an are conservative since they can't be matched to individual engine dynamics.

 

[Loweredon33s]

I went with a tune for better response an quicker off the line/0-60. I don't worry about peak numbers either so I went back to the 87-89 tune to get better control on take offs. I want improved performance without sacrificing long term reliability or engine life. It's fun surprising someone with a strong run to 60. I take it easy 90% of the time an just enjoy the rush now an then on an open on ramp.

My question to you guys that are really into tuning an know the ins and outs is do the mass produced tunes like Ford Performance an Livernois update when bolt on items are added? Stuff like a better cat back, air box intercooler tubes? I figure these canned tunes are developed off a baseline vehicle an are conservative since they can't be matched to individual engine dynamics.

I have customers who are full bolton with FRP tune. I don’t recommend that tune because it’s not able to be changed or anything. It’s definitely not the highest power but it’s considered “safer” because it’s a Ford approved tune. The stock tune, and pretty much any tune available for our trucks SHOULD have enough adaptive ability to deal with changing conditions and most standard modifications. I found that the key is to allow it to adjust rather than changing parts, starting the engine and going right to the floor first thing. All tuners do different things though so I would always suggest asking the actual tuner when able to. That said some people love the FRP tune and others want more and better. The tune I use on my truck will adapt from bone stock to full bolton without any problems. When I develop parts I usually do so on the existing tune for a couple miles then give my tuner a datalog for him to make comparisons without altering the tune. It’s not often that he actually needs to make any changes at all but at least it gets checked, you don’t get that with Ford Performance…. It’s once and done and if something doesn’t play well with the other stuff you’re stuck with it.

 

[Langwilliams]

I don’t recommend that tune because it’s not able to be changed or anything

Yeah it's not my preferred tune either but from what I've seen online there isn't a lot out there for the bronco. Livernois only lists the ford tune on their site. I figure it's better than stock. I may run the factory tune a year to see if any more come available.

 

[Loweredon33s]

Yeah it's not my preferred tune either but from what I've seen online there isn't a lot out there for the bronco. Livernois only lists the ford tune on their site. I figure it's better than stock. I may run the factory tune a year to see if any more come available.

We have a test Bronco but it’s a 2.7. I’d love to get a 2.3 on our dyno soon.

 

[seanellaz]

Your turbo intake is fairly unique and while it may be the stock turbo influencing performance I don't see a real problem. The only thing I'd want is less noise from the swap as I understand you experience a 'whistle.' I wonder where it's being generated and if it can be compensated for?

I like the turbo whistle I hear with my Injen PF9071WB. Sounds cool and is not intrusive to my ears.

 

[Racket]

I like the turbo whistle I hear with my Injen PF9071WB. Sounds cool and is not intrusive to my ears.

My guess would be the air acceleration at the inside curve if the elbow or generated at the port outlet. Whether addressing the opening there or dimpling the inside at it's shortest/narrowest I wonder if that's typical of airflow design.

I wouldn't be surprised if restrictions at certain points in the intake - or the relief of them create the potential for airflow related noise elsewhere. I think it has a lot to do with Ford's hot side intercooler pipe, and it's one of the obvious things that are a target of modification.

The other is the intake itself. In the US you can see the space the intake horn is attached is wider than the opening itself and Ford just blocks that off. Never mind the inlet to the airbox is kind of small. If anything a replacement air box lower that mimicked the factory one, used the factory air filter but had better flow would be a no brainer. The aFe Magnum intake horn was a minor improvement in the obvious restrictions even if all it does is present more air at the leading edge of the hood.

If I were a manufacturer that's what I would design and sell - a replacement lower with a bigger inlet. It could compliment the odd aftermarket (think Roush) top replacements although I'm an advocate of factory air filters.

 

[LowKeyTremor]

My apologies, let me specify, the truck has aftermarket wheels and off road tires, they are considerably heavier than stock and therefore need to be mentioned since they play a role in power translation to the wheels.
You know, like when someone says they have cams, or exhaust, or whatever... they mean non stock.

I know this is not the newest post, but I love that you have given me some useful info, as 33 x 12.50‘s w/ 20x9 (0mm offset) will happen as soon as these tires wear…

NO, I’LL BE HONEST: i’ve allocated a healthy portion of my tax refund, and that should cover not only the wheels and tires, but the additional Boltons and a tune to optimize everything, disable the GD start/stop system, and adjust the speedometer for the tire size.

BTW (worth mentioning, but I probably shouldn’t)

First of all, I’m guilty of this, but to be fair, I don’t know what my expenses will be quite often, but I am getting a better sense for the future. That brings the below topic:

• A large tax refund is not a good thing in general! In its very essence, it’s you and I giving the Fed & State an interest free loan! (but underpaying is even worse if it’s too much, due to the potential interest & penalties).
• This goes for those who pay taxes. Anybody who ends up with a refund larger than the amount of taxes they paid, if any at all, are getting quite a sweet deal! But somewhere, it’s subsidized by everybody, so I hope that part is known, as nothing is truly free!

Now, the below should be skipped, so read at your own peril. It’s not like I’m saying anything untrue! ?

So I’m sorry everybody… It’s just that I really hate to give any extra money to California, even if it’s temporary, as they already take $1.65/gallo’ of gas (if not more… It will be soon!), yet my wife has hit potholes because the roads are so terrible. I sort of thought some of that money might go to just reasonable roads… as soon as you get over into the Nevada area, it’s such a pleasure to drive on these amazingly smooth road surfaces!

Anyways, the potholes were standard California policy because I was forced to pay for something that I was not planning to do nor needing to do!

The only anomaly happens to be that it now looks incredible!

Black car with matte black wheels and dark tint. Pretty mean looking!!

 

[OGMix376]

Whale dick faces forward, at least this version does. Injen faces rearward though. I’m not familiar with his mod but I’d assume anything that sends a volume of air towards the filter is beneficial. When I was getting my vents painted I realized how much louder the intake is with the vents out! Kinda makes me want to do scoops or something.
PS, I now hate you because you just made me start drawing a fender scoop design ?

Where would a person purchase this “whale dick” turbo inlet thingy?… and this very interesting “fender scoop of anger”.??
It was nice to see that even the roush CAi does make improvements. (Maybe not the best, but still good that you get something more than just the roush branding.).

 

[Racket]

...there's not a whole lot of difference between the red and green, though green is better. They are both peaky torque curves, which is what is hard on rods/bearings/wrist pins.

Again, that "swell" is common of a small turbo. A lot of tuners do this... Ramp up boost about as high as it will take, then it inevitably drops.

Where this is what I would consider a flattening of average torque.

I would happily give up some crazy peaks in HP/torque in order to preserve my engine. Sounds like beyond getting the 2.3 to breath better, maybe a modest turbo upgrade could be part of broadening those curves as long as it's tuned sensibly.

 

[Loweredon33s]

[/QUOTE]

Where would a person purchase this “whale dick” turbo inlet thingy?… and this very interesting “fender scoop of anger”.??
It was nice to see that even the roush CAi does make improvements. (Maybe not the best, but still good that you get something more than just the roush branding.).

maybe I should make a few.

 

[Loweredon33s]

I would happily give up some crazy peaks in HP/torque in order to preserve my engine. Sounds like beyond getting the 2.3 to breath better, maybe a modest turbo upgrade could be part of broadening those curves as long as it's tuned sensibly.

Exactly! Almost all of the stock turbo Rangers with tunes have a ridiculous torque spike, it’s there because it’s hard to flatten. Hitting the stock turbo hard down low causes it to run out of steam earlier than actually tuning it to work throughout the rpm range. These engines make power past 6k if they have enough air. The larger turbo tends to be slower to get spooled and when properly tuned that reduces the stress on the engine down low and allows us to spread that power out along the whole range better.

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