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Now they ( Amsoil) came out with there ULV transmission fluid

dtech

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Amsoil and other oil companys word it so that they won't get sued by the OEM's. THEY recommend it for use where Ford spec ######## is called for. So you see, it has not passed any tests that are dictated by the OE but THEY can still 'recommend' it. If you look at a bottle of Mobil 1, that HAS passed GM's Dexos specification and I believe one from Honda as well. THEY recommend a whole list of specs THEY think their oil is good for, but have not passed or even participated in the tests associated with. It's all a big game.
this - and a lucrative one for the auto makers who charge big markups for stuff that in general isn't a whole lot different from after market multi use ATFs - such as Valvoline ULV. Fortunately Motorcraft ULV can be acquired at a reasonable price.

Hyundai was charging $18/qt for their SPIII and a lot of people buy it because they feel it's " a safer route" the stuff wasn't even synthetic .
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Frenchy

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this - and a lucrative one for the auto makers who charge big markups for stuff that in general isn't a whole lot different from after market multi use ATFs - such as Valvoline ULV. Fortunately Motorcraft ULV can be acquired at a reasonable price.

Hyundai was charging $18/qt for their SPIII and a lot of people buy it because they feel it's " a safer route" the stuff wasn't even synthetic .
When it comes to an automatic transmission, it usually is the best idea to go to the factory to get the fluid. Even with my frontier I do just that. Thankfully the fluid is only about $10 a quart. Main reason I do that is because a lot of the aftermarket wants to claim multi-type fluids that meet every single transmission specification out there. The problem with that is with my knowledge of automatic transmissions and how if you use the incorrect fluid even once you can cause a transmission to grenade itself.
 
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Old Red Replacement

Old Red Replacement

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Well guys thanks for all responses, on the F-150 forum the topic was even more vocal , pro & con.

I only have 4500 miles since I changed the Fluid ,filter, and installed PPE pan and
the other dipstick available.

I have room on shelf and time to wait for someone to try it and report results.

IMG_0574.jpeg
 
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Old Red Replacement

Old Red Replacement

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Ok. I helmed and hawed. Saw this and
decided to put the Amsoil ULV in.
The stuff came out darker with tiny amount of metal film on magnet.
I’ll let you know what happens on now scheduled towing 800 miles next month.
Test drive shifted smoothly.

.

IMG_0577.jpeg
 

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WOW....they are sure proud of that stuff....3 times the cost of Motorcraft and Valvoline !!!
Have to take out a loan against the Ranger or 2nd mtg on the house !!!
 


Frenchy

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WOW....they are sure proud of that stuff....3 times the cost of Motorcraft and Valvoline !!!
Have to take out a loan against the Ranger or 2nd mtg on the house !!!
Part of why I call it "ScamOil"
 

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I have to admit that gent who is an amsoil distributor hasn't been overly zealous in promoting amsoil, yrs back when I drove Saabs and was active on a Saab site there was an amsoil distributor - Dick from Church Falls VA who used to aggressively promote amsoil on the Saab site and whenever he posted he would be thoroughly dissed and mocked.
Some people apparently make some $$ promoting those overpriced lubricants.
 

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I have to admit that gent who is an amsoil distributor hasn't been overly zealous in promoting amsoil, yrs back when I drove Saabs and was active on a Saab site there was an amsoil distributor - Dick from Church Falls VA who used to aggressively promote amsoil on the Saab site and whenever he posted he would be thoroughly dissed and mocked.
Some people apparently make some $$ promoting those overpriced lubricants.
Do you know why they call it a "Saab"?! Because every time you work on it, you cry!
 
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Old Red Replacement

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The fluid capacity is 12.7 QTs with oem pan, add 1 1/2 qts for extra capacity PPE pan. I drained out 6 1/2 qts, it took adjusting to 7 1 /2 QTs , driving it up to +180 F to get level to where it was on dipstick before drain. So now I have about 1/2 Ford and 1/2 the Amsoil ULV in there.

I posted the link to the guys oil analysis and picture of my dark red fluid for you to see.

I recently came across hotshot oil brand, leans towards diesel community use, I also installed an afe airscoop and there dry filter. My driving 5/10 mile city highway driving and other mileage is towing camper. We use 93 octane and add 4 oz of PI fuel conditioner to every 10 gallons gas.

Use whatever you want to, my choices are based on research and what is best for a Ranger 2.3 Eco-Boost with 10R80 used for towing. We choose it because of reviews ,gas engine equivalent of diesel which was cost prohibitive.
 

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The fluid capacity is 12.7 QTs with oem pan, add 1 1/2 qts for extra capacity PPE pan. I drained out 6 1/2 qts, it took adjusting to 7 1 /2 QTs , driving it up to +180 F to get level to where it was on dipstick before drain. So now I have about 1/2 Ford and 1/2 the Amsoil ULV in there.

I posted the link to the guys oil analysis and picture of my dark red fluid for you to see.

I recently came across hotshot oil brand, leans towards diesel community use, I also installed an afe airscoop and there dry filter. My driving 5/10 mile city highway driving and other mileage is towing camper. We use 93 octane and add 4 oz of PI fuel conditioner to every 10 gallons gas.

Use whatever you want to, my choices are based on research and what is best for a Ranger 2.3 Eco-Boost with 10R80 used for towing. We choose it because of reviews ,gas engine equivalent of diesel which was cost prohibitive.
Wondering how the two fluids are getting along ??? Are they co-mingling or keeping separate from each other??? I mean why in the world would a $20 buck quart of Amsoil ULV want to mix with a $6 buck quart of Motorcraft ULV ??? And, how do you tell which half is which ???
Now, if something goes wrong, which half do you blame it on ???
Inquiring minds want to know.....
 
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After driving +10 miles I had to loosen drain plug and drain out one quart, and add half of it back to get to level on dipstick I wanted. The two fluids were blended fine. The real test will be more driving, the fluid temps monitored on my Glowshift gauge while towing camper in Fl heat in a few weeks.
 

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Wondering how the two fluids are getting along ??? Are they co-mingling or keeping separate from each other??? I mean why in the world would a $20 buck quart of Amsoil ULV want to mix with a $6 buck quart of Motorcraft ULV ??? And, how do you tell which half is which ???
Now, if something goes wrong, which half do you blame it on ???
Inquiring minds want to know.....
Extensive lab testing
IMG_1272.webp
 

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Extensive research to do what's best for the 2.3 EcoBoost 10R80?! I am confused a bit here.......

The PPE Pan I can understand as it makes it much easier to service the transmission and it adds some cooling fins to help control the temperature.

The fluid is where I'm confused....... How is $20 a quart fluid supposedly better than the OEM $6-$8 a quart fluid that does just fine especially if you service the transmission regularly?! I can tell you that the math is not mathing very well here.
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