Regular Maintenance Matters

[Superspirit]

If you think the line press is good, then why is sonnax making a zip kit to fix these problems. I have one on order to install with the ppe deep pan. The day the warranty expires. Not going to risk install of either while still in warranty.

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[ctechbob]

If you think the line press is good, then why is sonnax making a zip kit to fix these problems. I have one on order to install with the ppe deep pan. The day the warranty expires. Not going to risk install of either while still in warranty.

Those kits are designed to replace worn valves. Of course if there is wear there is going to be pressure loss.

I'm currently concentrating on keeping the wear at a minimum, what happens after that is out of my control.

--Edit--

This is why I've been an advocate for early and often fluid changes. Keeping debris out of the valve body and keeping wear as low as possible.

Can we stop it?

Probably not, there needs to be some redesign in the valve body or material choices for that to happen.

I also think, in a lot of cases, the Lubegard is helping.

https://lubegard.com/viscosity-in-depth-review/

From their test of ULV they showed a tiny bit less wear using Platinum, which is what I based my choice on 50,000 miles ago. And it seems to be helping people.

I'm not paid by them, I make nothing from people buying it, I don't work in any way with them. I just think that they're a pretty honest company that makes a pretty good product. I read early on about 10R80 problems and started looking at ways to try and mitigate them in my truck.

The choices I've made are.

1. Started changing fluid at around 10k and continue to drain and fill every other oil change (10,000 miles). This essentially gives me a 'complete' fluid exchange every 30,000 miles (Or close enough at least).
2. Lubegard Platinum at 1oz per qt of ULV.
3. Aluminum pan, both for making draining and filling easy and to hopefully offer some stability to the trans case.

4. A Fitzstick, because everyone needs one.

 

[Superspirit]

Those kits are designed to replace worn valves. Of course if there is wear there is going to be pressure loss.

I'm currently concentrating on keeping the wear at a minimum, what happens after that is out of my control.

--Edit--

This is why I've been an advocate for early and often fluid changes. Keeping debris out of the valve body and keeping wear as low as possible.

Can we stop it?

Probably not, there needs to be some redesign in the valve body or material choices for that to happen.

I also think, in a lot of cases, the Lubegard is helping.

https://lubegard.com/viscosity-in-depth-review/

From their test of ULV they showed a tiny bit less wear using Platinum, which is what I based my choice on 50,000 miles ago. And it seems to be helping people.

I'm not paid by them, I make nothing from people buying it, I don't work in any way with them. I just think that they're a pretty honest company that makes a pretty good product. I read early on about 10R80 problems and started looking at ways to try and mitigate them in my truck.

The choices I've made are.

1. Started changing fluid at around 10k and continue to drain and fill every other oil change (10,000 miles). This essentially gives me a 'complete' fluid exchange every 30,000 miles (Or close enough at least).
2. Lubegard Platinum at 1oz per qt of ULV.
3. Aluminum pan, both for making draining and filling easy and to hopefully offer some stability to the trans case.

4. A Fitzstick, because everyone needs one.

Not necessarily, they are designed to upgrade iffy factory parts. I believe in the maintenance but also believe in higher quality parts. I remember the 4L60 TCC problems. Sonnnax fixed that instantly. So you can believe what you want. As a retired ASE master tech. I believe what I've seen.

 

[ctechbob]

Not necessarily, they are designed to upgrade iffy factory parts. I believe in the maintenance but also believe in higher quality parts. I remember the 4L60 TCC problems. Sonnnax fixed that instantly. So you can believe what you want. As a retired ASE master tech. I believe what I've seen.

Keep us updated. I'm genuinely interested.

 

[Frenchy]

Wait a minute....... ? You mean to tell me that Maintenance isn't a SCAM?! ?

 

[Racket]

When I bought my 2019 new the dealer offered an oil change at 300 miles and from there on I've had the dealers use full synthetic. I get it done somewhere between 5 and 7 thousand miles. Had the dealer change out the rear diff oil at around 25K miles and more recently the dealer did my transmission and filter at about 45K. I had already installed the MBS transmission dipstick and the level from the factory was fine although the fluid darker red than after it was changed. The dealer also underfilled the transmission enough that I was able to add 12 ounces of Lubeguard Platinum without going over the maximum level.

The catch can has been pretty reliable in separating out who knows what that crap is - water? Paraffin? Gasoline byproduct? Oil?

Now the dealer is promoting flushing out the brake fluid and replacing the coolant and since I'm approaching 60K I'm trying decide which to do first unless they give me $ incentive to do both at once.

 

[ctechbob]

When I bought my 2019 new the dealer offered an oil change at 300 miles and from there on I've had the dealers use full synthetic. I get it done somewhere between 5 and 7 thousand miles. Had the dealer change out the rear diff oil at around 25K miles and more recently the dealer did my transmission and filter at about 45K. I had already installed the MBS transmission dipstick and the level from the factory was fine although the fluid darker red than after it was changed. The dealer also underfilled the transmission enough that I was able to add 12 ounces of Lubeguard Platinum without going over the maximum level.

The catch can has been pretty reliable in separating out who knows what that crap is - water? Paraffin? Gasoline byproduct? Oil?

Now the dealer is promoting flushing out the brake fluid and replacing the coolant and since I'm approaching 60K I'm trying decide which to do first unless they give me $ incentive to do both at once.

Brake fluid. Changing the coolant is an ok idea, but it should go 100k no problem, whereas brakes are a whole lot more important to keep fresh fluid in.

Coolant is on my radar this year as I'm approaching 70k, but only if I have some spare time. Today's long-life coolants work pretty well....unless you have a Stellantis product, then your heater core will probably plug up and let you know when to change it.

 

[Frenchy]

When I bought my 2019 new the dealer offered an oil change at 300 miles and from there on I've had the dealers use full synthetic. I get it done somewhere between 5 and 7 thousand miles. Had the dealer change out the rear diff oil at around 25K miles and more recently the dealer did my transmission and filter at about 45K. I had already installed the MBS transmission dipstick and the level from the factory was fine although the fluid darker red than after it was changed. The dealer also underfilled the transmission enough that I was able to add 12 ounces of Lubeguard Platinum without going over the maximum level.

The catch can has been pretty reliable in separating out who knows what that crap is - water? Paraffin? Gasoline byproduct? Oil?

Now the dealer is promoting flushing out the brake fluid and replacing the coolant and since I'm approaching 60K I'm trying decide which to do first unless they give me $ incentive to do both at once.

From my experience with Nissan, I recommend changing the Brake Fluid every 15,000. Sounds silly, but it helps ensure the Brakes will be pliable.

 

[Racket]

I'm inclined to agree on the brake fluid. IIRC it's always been hygroscopic to a degree regardless of DOT grade - with heat cycling, ABS and traction control in modern cars it seems the most reasonable maintenance to have done next. I think some sources recommend bi-annual replacement, which would mean I've gone over twice as long.

 

[Frenchy]

I'm inclined to agree on the brake fluid. IIRC it's always been hygroscopic to a degree regardless of DOT grade - with heat cycling, ABS and traction control in modern cars it seems the most reasonable maintenance to have done next. I think some sources recommend bi-annual replacement, which would mean I've gone over twice as long.

When I was in Tech School a while back, I was informed that Brake Fluid is so dry that it makes Alcohol look soaking wet.

 

[fusseli]

I'm inclined to agree on the brake fluid. IIRC it's always been hygroscopic to a degree regardless of DOT grade - with heat cycling, ABS and traction control in modern cars it seems the most reasonable maintenance to have done next. I think some sources recommend bi-annual replacement, which would mean I've gone over twice as long.

Yes, do brake fluid every year or two. Traction control and adaptive cruise both fire the ABS to work. And since brake fluid doesn't actually circulate since brakes are hydraulic, that fluid just gets pounded away in the ABS module.

 

[Roscoe_t]

Mine was black as coal at 18K Miles. Take a good close look at the residue in the bottom of the first jug. I suspect it is clutch material.

It shouldn't be surprising that the transmission will create the greatest amount of particulate matter as it breaks in early in its lifetime. That's why I think an early change is important.

Moreover, the particles in suspension may be too small to get caught in the filter but they still can be abrasive, particularly in the workings of the valve body.

 

[ctechbob]

It shouldn't be surprising that the transmission will create the greatest amount of particulate matter as it breaks in early in its lifetime. That's why I think an early change is important.

Moreover, the particles in suspension may be too small to get caught in the filter but they still can be abrasive, particularly in the workings of the valve body.

And they never stop shedding particles.

 

[Roscoe_t]

And they never stop shedding particles.

Yeah, and heat can do its damage to fluid quality as well.
In my one experience taking an automatic transmission (a zF 5hp30) to 300k miles, it seemed that the fluid stayed cleaner as it reached high-mile territory. It had an orange tint when it came out, but it was pretty clear. I used Lubegard products religiously in that unit (mostly Red and Shudder Fix).
That transmission came with "lifetime" fluid and a dire warning never to use anything but the $20/liter semisynthetic factory fluid. The car was out of warranty by the time I got it, though, so I converted it to Dexron III. The friction modifiers in Lubegard made the blend better than the original stuff, IMO.

 

[Burnt Money]

I changed the Transmission fluid and filter Today. The fluid was dark. Even after replacing 5qts a few weeks ago. The filter was black inside. I added Lubeguard as well. After taking it for a drive to get it hot enough to ensure the fluid level was correct. I can say it definitely shifts smoother. No placebo effect, I’ve driven this truck for 86,000 miles lol. I’m also running the Livernois Tow/Haul tune. Hopefully this keeps from having any issues in the future….Hopefully lol.

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