Rear Brakes: Fact or BS?

[duckmansheba]

Took the Ranger to the local dealership for shudder in the rear end. I had looked at the rotors and saw 0 wear on the outboard faces but major wear on the inboard faces and thought I had seized calipers.
I was told by the tech that the calipers were ok and it was just normal wear….all Ford trucks’ rear brakes are like that and I could only expect 50k-60k kilometres.
Fact or BS???

New rear pads for me at 30K miles

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[Dereku]

The big issue is traction control does this. Even if you dont think you are spinning a tire it pulses the brakes, and you dont even notice it. I use a synthetic ceramic lubricant on my brakes every 30k. Still doesn’t prevent TC from mucking everything up.

 

[Metal Geezer]

I still don’t believe that it’s “normal” for the inside to be destroyed and the outside to have little to no wear. Makes no sense to me.
Outside:

Inside (better pics when I pull these Monday):

 

[Frenchy]

If it is only the inboard pad then I would suspect an issue with the Caliper Pins. If they get stuck, the inner pad will wear down quicker.

 

[PeterL]

This is exactly what my rear rotors looked like - I replaced the pads and rotors with Powerstop ones and the shudder is gone. I didn't touch the fronts - they still have lots of pad left and no shudder.

Mine too. I will replace next week. My truck has 60k km and zero towing.

 

[Dereku]

I still don’t believe that it’s “normal” for the inside to be destroyed and the outside to have little to no wear. Makes no sense to me.
Outside:

Inside (better pics when I pull these Monday):

Inside pad is first to hit the rotor due to the sliding design. TC cycles the brakes so fast the outside one barely gets any use. If you have ever see a TC data log its sad how often it engages. I am hugely against it unless it intervenes only in extreme circumstances.

 

[TJC]

Brings back memories of my 1990 Taurus sho and the composite rotors Ford used, within 3 months the fronts were badly warped , horrible shaking. Took it the dealer who said it was so bad they didn't want me to drive it away, but of course they wanted to charge me their marked up price to replace with the same crappy rotors. I countered by saying I would sue them , they called ford who authorized replacing the rotors for free, I agreed to pay for .5 hrs of labor. And of course later on one of those self adjusting rear calipers seized and ate up the rotor. The sho was nice, especially the yamaha engine but the quality was abysmal. It did have the best auto climate control of any vehicle I've owned and it never failed , but the AC did owing to a misthreaded line into compressor, one of several cross threaded bolts I encountered . Quality was job 1 ????

That Yamaha engine is legendary!

 

[21rangerCactus]

86k and still on stock brakes. I don't tow anything but I do a lot of stop and go city driving. The only time I ever felt a shudder is when going way over the speed limit. Truck wasn't designed for that so I don't see it as an issue.

 

[Metal Geezer]

Inside pad is first to hit the rotor due to the sliding design. TC cycles the brakes so fast the outside one barely gets any use. If you have ever see a TC data log its sad how often it engages. I am hugely against it unless it intervenes only in extreme circumstances.

With that in mind I may try to get in the habit of suspending TC when I drive, unless it’s snowing, slushy, etc. etc.
…or just wait to see if the aftermarket parts wear better than the OEM.
It’s only money, right? ?

 

[airline tech]

I still don’t believe that it’s “normal” for the inside to be destroyed and the outside to have little to no wear. Makes no sense to me.
Outside:

Inside (better pics when I pull these Monday):

Possibles:

1. Sliding Pins - Sticking (not allowing full return)
2. Slightly Mis-Adjusted Park Brake Cable Holding the Lever (slightly applied)
Can be adjusted at the Park Brake Lever
3. Internal (Park Brake) Piston (Adjuster - Clutch Cone) sticking and holding piston - slightly applied) - You can see this if the Park Brake (Caliper Lever) is not fully retracting by the spring tension.
4. Sticking Park Brake Cable - The spring tension on the Caliper Levers, pull the cable back into released position when you drop the handle, if a cable is sticking it will hold the Caliper Lever applied or slightly applied.

I think most of the issue comes from not performing some preventive maintenance on the Levers and Cables. I lube mine (every oil change) just spray lube.
Since I do not use the parking brake regularly, I also just grab the handle and cycle it about 10 times every so often to keep it (in working order)

Now, add in for those that use the parking brake regularly, you are setting the park brake with HOT Brakes, and this creates some of the discoloration on the rotors and leaves pad deposits behind. This combination - creates some of the warped rotor complaints.
This is just my theory on this issue.

 

[Dereku]

Possibles:

1. Sliding Pins - Sticking (not allowing full return)
2. Slightly Mis-Adjusted Park Brake Cable Holding the Lever (slightly applied)
Can be adjusted at the Park Brake Lever
3. Internal (Park Brake) Piston (Adjuster - Clutch Cone) sticking and holding piston - slightly applied) - You can see this if the Park Brake (Caliper Lever) is not fully retracting by the spring tension.
4. Sticking Park Brake Cable - The spring tension on the Caliper Levers, pull the cable back into released position when you drop the handle, if a cable is sticking it will hold the Caliper Lever applied or slightly applied.

I think most of the issue comes from not performing some preventive maintenance on the Levers and Cables. I lube mine (every oil change) just spray lube.
Since I do not use the parking brake regularly, I also just grab the handle and cycle it about 10 times every so often to keep it (in working order)

Now, add in for those that use the parking brake regularly, you are setting the park brake with HOT Brakes, and this creates some of the discoloration on the rotors and leaves pad deposits behind. This combination - creates some of the warped rotor complaints.
This is just my theory on this issue.

You are not wrong. Parking brakes that utilize the brake pads and not internal shoes in the hat have this issue. Didn’t think of that.

 

[RangerBill]

Possibles:

1. Sliding Pins - Sticking (not allowing full return)
2. Slightly Mis-Adjusted Park Brake Cable Holding the Lever (slightly applied)
Can be adjusted at the Park Brake Lever
3. Internal (Park Brake) Piston (Adjuster - Clutch Cone) sticking and holding piston - slightly applied) - You can see this if the Park Brake (Caliper Lever) is not fully retracting by the spring tension.
4. Sticking Park Brake Cable - The spring tension on the Caliper Levers, pull the cable back into released position when you drop the handle, if a cable is sticking it will hold the Caliper Lever applied or slightly applied.

I think most of the issue comes from not performing some preventive maintenance on the Levers and Cables. I lube mine (every oil change) just spray lube.
Since I do not use the parking brake regularly, I also just grab the handle and cycle it about 10 times every so often to keep it (in working order)

Now, add in for those that use the parking brake regularly, you are setting the park brake with HOT Brakes, and this creates some of the discoloration on the rotors and leaves pad deposits behind. This combination - creates some of the warped rotor complaints.
This is just my theory on this issue.

I use my parking brake all the time I am parked. So far, not issues with pulsating brakes or warped rotors.

 

[nm6r]

I have over 62k miles on my Ranger. I tow quite a bit between my utility trailer and my toy hauler (almost 6k lbs.). All my brake pads and rotors are still looking good. I do a combination of city/highway and occasionally use my parking brake on hills.

I would question the dealer's competency since the brakes should be wearing the way one would expect.

 

[Metal Geezer]

As promised….
Replaced the rear pads and rotors today:
Guess which pads were inner ?

Old rotor inner face:
This was the worst of the two…

Outer face:

New rotors and pads:

After bedding the contact areas look good. Sure feels better too.

 

[chaps]

Brings back memories of my 1990 Taurus sho and the composite rotors Ford used, within 3 months the fronts were badly warped , horrible shaking. Took it the dealer who said it was so bad they didn't want me to drive it away, but of course they wanted to charge me their marked up price to replace with the same crappy rotors. I countered by saying I would sue them , they called ford who authorized replacing the rotors for free, I agreed to pay for .5 hrs of labor. And of course later on one of those self adjusting rear calipers seized and ate up the rotor. The sho was nice, especially the yamaha engine but the quality was abysmal. It did have the best auto climate control of any vehicle I've owned and it never failed , but the AC did owing to a misthreaded line into compressor, one of several cross threaded bolts I encountered . Quality was job 1 ????

I too had a 90 SHO! One of the most fun cars I've ever owned, but yea, the quality of the car around that engine was sad. You didn't mention clutch... I guess you avoided that. Mine failed before 50K.

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