Differentials and Transfer Case Fluid Change

[Conman50]

You can't over fill as excess will come out the in hole...I wrap teflon tape around the plug before bolting them back on...wrench hand tight to not strip the aluminum threads...

Crap I forgot those were aluminum...I really should buy a low range tourqe wrench. My half inch is just too high

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[03svt]

Really great info here in this thread thanks to all who contributed. Just ordered everything up, I have a '19 with 62k mostly highway and haven't changed the diffs or transfer case before. I use 4 wheel in the summer on the beach and occasionally winters locally and I'm curious to see how bad it looks.

 

[03svt]

Well you can add me to the club. I changed out all three members, and used Ford 80-90 and Mercon LV.

The transfer case was really black.

I cleaned up the plug threads, applied permatex and used the goodentight torque spec.

 

[DRVMN]

Just serviced my rear differential and transfer case. Both fluids were consistent with what others have said. About 55,400 miles on my odometer. Will be changing the front soon.

For those that changed the front differential, was there enough room to crawl underneath and reach everything, or did you have to put your Ranger up on jack stands or a hoist? I just glanced at it real quick, but have not slid underneath. I did remove my spare tire before filling the rear differential, and that made it super easy to fill it with new gear oil. I used Ford Motorcraft gear oil as stated in the Owner's manual. I used a hand pump for the transfer case, which took all of 10 minutes to fill.

Thank you for any information you have! Great thread!!!

 

[Bob902]

Just serviced my rear differential and transfer case. Both fluids were consistent with what others have said. About 55,400 miles on my odometer. Will be changing the front soon.

For those that changed the front differential, was there enough room to crawl underneath and reach everything, or did you have to put your Ranger up on jack stands or a hoist? I just glanced at it real quick, but have not slid underneath. I did remove my spare tire before filling the rear differential, and that made it super easy to fill it with new gear oil. I used Ford Motorcraft gear oil as stated in the Owner's manual. I used a hand pump for the transfer case, which took all of 10 minutes to fill.

Thank you for any information you have! Great thread!!!

I just did mine. I slid under without raising the truck. I found the front diff was easier to do going under in front of the wheel.

 

[StarLord]

Just serviced my rear differential and transfer case. Both fluids were consistent with what others have said. About 55,400 miles on my odometer. Will be changing the front soon.

For those that changed the front differential, was there enough room to crawl underneath and reach everything, or did you have to put your Ranger up on jack stands or a hoist? I just glanced at it real quick, but have not slid underneath. I did remove my spare tire before filling the rear differential, and that made it super easy to fill it with new gear oil. I used Ford Motorcraft gear oil as stated in the Owner's manual. I used a hand pump for the transfer case, which took all of 10 minutes to fill.

Thank you for any information you have! Great thread!!!

I was also able to just slide under without having to jack anything up. There is enough room to work, its just a bit tight!

 

[DRVMN]

I had posted this in a separate thread, but wanted to contribute to this thread as well.

I just changed the transfer case fluid on my 2021 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4. 55,390 miles. The drain and fill bolts required a 10 mm hex head/Allen socket to remove. Both bolts were easy to remove without any issues, and yes - I started by removing the fill bolt first in the event the drain bolt would not loosen. I live in Minnesota, where our roads are heavily salted in the winter, but no signs of corrosion on either bolt. The fluid was dark, as expected, but no signs of any problems - did not smell burned, no visible chunks of metal or debris in the fluid, and nothing out of the ordinary on the drain bolt magnet. I did purchase new sealing/crush washers and they were around $13 each. Not trying to start a debate on whether they should be changed or not - it was my choice, and $26 isn’t going to break my bank account. I’ve owned a few Honda vehicles and they always had crush washers for drain plugs, so it’s something I replace out of habit and good practice. I used Ford Motorcraft Mercon LV Automatic Transmission Fluid (Not Motorcraft ULV Transmission Fluid, which is used for the automatic transmission). Check your Owner's Manual because there is a difference! (Not trying to start a debate on which brand transmission fluid is the best to use . . . I use OEM and have never had an issue). Both bolts were torqued to 18 ft.-lbs. Purchase two quarts of transmission fluid. The Service Manual that was shared in this thread calls for 1.2 liters. I used one quart, plus approximately 10 ounces, and at that point, fluid started to slowly trickle out of the filler hole. I used a hand pump and it took about 10 minutes of my time to pump fluid back into the transfer case.

Crush washer/seal part number - Ford: AB3Z-7482-A.

On a side note - I used some of the extra transmission fluid to change the fluid on my tailgate damper. Now it operates smoother than ever. That is peace of mind that money cannot buy!!! Imagine how will I will sleep tonight! May change the hood support strut oil too, but one job at a time.

 

[thorn726]

changed the rear end oil on my 19 2wd no locking differential yesterday/ notes:
fill level of 1.75L = 1.8 Qts AND that is pretty much exactly how much i put in as it started leaking out the fill hole SO- you can pretty much do it the old fashioned way and just fill until it overflows a little and you'll get the right amount in there....
not too bad fitting under there like everyone says, good access. mine has a drain plug hooray.
3/8 socket driver to remove plugs. small amount of metal on plug.
at 64,500 miles the old fluid smelled a little burnt was a little dark but overall in good shape, still had some of its original color. I got the truck at 32,000 and since then mostly roadtrip freeway miles with a 4-600lb load on and over some mountains. In town some heavy loads/ I've worked it enough that i'm impressed by the condition of the oil but also glad i changed it.

 

[redone17]

Anyone use the Dana suggested 75W-140 in the differential?

 

[Langwilliams]

Anyone use the Dana suggested 75W-140 in the differential?

Guys in the Bronco forum do. They say it's what Dana recommends an Ford an Jeep use lighter fluid to try to improve fuel economy.

 

[The Last Ranger]

Just slid under my 21 FX4 Ranger to find no drain plug for the rear differential, my build date was December 21, I believe. Sure glad I have the M-4033-BR on order.

 

[The Last Ranger]

Just installed my Ford performance differential cover ( M-4033-BR ), so I now have a magnetic drain plug. Easy install, torqued the bolts to spec 29.5 ft lb and the drain and fill plugs to 22 ft lb.

 

[moorejl57]

Guys in the Bronco forum do. They say it's what Dana recommends an Ford an Jeep use lighter fluid to try to improve fuel economy.

I saw lighter fluid and thought, whaaaaaat!!!! Then I realized what you meant lol.

 

[Langwilliams]

I saw lighter fluid and thought, whaaaaaat!!!! Then I realized what you meant lol.

Guess I should have said "viscosity" LOL

 

[Tiger02595]

Just slid under my 21 FX4 Ranger to find no drain plug for the rear differential, my build date was December 21, I believe. Sure glad I have the M-4033-BR on order.

They must have changed in late 21 then. My build 08/21 has the drain plug on the lower front side of the differential like most of them. That might have been a change by Dana more than Ford.

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