2019 Brakes 65,000 miles Front are 8mm. Rears are 3 mm.

[johnitahoe]

It looks like I need new brake pads on the rears.

What is the recommended procedure for doing this?

1) Replace the Pads?
2) Resurface rotors and replace pads?
3) Replace the rotors and the pads?

Thanks,
John

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[ctechbob]

Depends.

If you're not having any pulsation issues, I'm all for a pad slap (clean and relube the sliders while you're in there). Also won't hurt to bleed some new fluid through that part of the system.

Not familiar with how much salt is used in the LT area, so you might want to look at new rotors if rust is a concern. At bare minimum I might pull the rotors off and clean the mounting area, just to make it easier next time if you need to replace the rotors.

Rotors these days usually don't put up with much resurfacing before they're at minimums, mostly you just replace them if needed.

 

[DRVMN]

Something to check as well . . . are the calipers the ones that require a special tool to compress? Some caliper pistons need to be rotated as they are pushed back into the caliper. I'm not sure about our Rangers.

 

[ctechbob]

Something to check as well . . . are the calipers the ones that require a special tool to compress? Some caliper pistons need to be rotated as they are pushed back into the caliper. I'm not sure about our Rangers.

Pretty sure they are.

You can usually accomplish it with a bigass screwdriver, or the cheap little tool, or the more expensive nicer tools.

 

[Bob902]

You can get the cheap tool to use with a ratchet from rock auto for about $5.

 

[OGMix376]

What’s a better procedure than replace pads and rotors,If you can afford the peace of mind.

I’d do pads and rotors, however 70% of the time I’m in the SF Bay Area near enough to ocean water (3/4’s of a mile away.) and 30% I’m in Hollister Hills area… with my little ones (both human and K9.) in my truck often.. so for me those dollars start to feel like pennies when it comes to making sure the vehicle is safe for my family and myself.
Not sure if money is a big part of the concern. but safety always is.
so replacement of all with ford pads and rotors will be my decision.
LT is nice place to visit some real pretty areas around there (lucky)
With you getting snow.. personally I wouldn’t let myself not do the works.
Snow usually means some salt is on the road?
Also replacing them every 60k or so really doesn’t seem that bad to go with premium replacement pads and rotors.
That’s just how I would handle it.

and most everything I’ve seen on this forum has given me the impression you need the tool to rotate the rear brakes piston
(something to do with the style of calipers and possibly emergency brake type our trucks have.)
(but I’m not a golfer..err, I meant super knowledgeable about these sweet but complicated modern trucks. But that’s why I’m here to learn from the smarter folks passionate about these specific trucks and have fun.)
(There’s some information about me no one asked for.?.)

 

[Cmar]

Well I look at and feel the rotors, as long as they don't have a significant ridge on them, or are badly scored or warped, then probably OK to re-use.

If ridged or scored you can get them machined. If warped I would just replace because if you machine them they will probably warp again really quickly.

 

[airline tech]

The mechanic in me says, Replace the rotors or have them turned - this is from a former ASE Cert Brake Tech - over 30 years ago anyways.
I am not sure how many shops still turn vs replace these days.

I have not always followed this rule though (outside of the shop), but I like to at minimum do a slight Crosshatch on the rotors with my Roloc Disc, the downside to having them turned is you need to schedule (time) to remove, get them to the shop or O-Reiley's (if they are still doing it)
I would always Mic them before hand, to know whether or not I would fall below min thickness.
It was much easier just to replace, but if (Friend Etc- did not want to replace or wait) the extra day or so, I just did a quick Crosshatch and then drove and Brake Bed.

Yes, the Rear Calipers require a tool to spin the pistons back to a seated position.
The caliper will have an (Arrow) identifying direction of rotation.
They will be opposite detections (Left & Right) - (CW or CCW)
You should be able to rent the tool from Auto-Parts stores

You need the final seated position to be this:

 

[Amsoil guy]

I always replace the rotors and pads together. 104k km on the truck now . Haven’t needed to do the fronts yet and rears were done about 6 months ago

 

[Rp930]

My rear rotors were trash at 25k. No towing, no loads, normal driving. Looked terrible. Pads were fine.

 

[Chris M]

What mm are the pads when new from the dealer?

 

[landiscarrier]

The mechanic in me says, Replace the rotors or have them turned - this is from a former ASE Cert Brake Tech - over 30 years ago anyways.
I am not sure how many shops still turn vs replace these days.

I have not always followed this rule though (outside of the shop), but I like to at minimum do a slight Crosshatch on the rotors with my Roloc Disc, the downside to having them turned is you need to schedule (time) to remove, get them to the shop or O-Reiley's (if they are still doing it)
I would always Mic them before hand, to know whether or not I would fall below min thickness.
It was much easier just to replace, but if (Friend Etc- did not want to replace or wait) the extra day or so, I just did a quick Crosshatch and then drove and Brake Bed.

Yes, the Rear Calipers require a tool to spin the pistons back to a seated position.
The caliper will have an (Arrow) identifying direction of rotation.
They will be opposite detections (Left & Right) - (CW or CCW)
You should be able to rent the tool from Auto-Parts stores

You need the final seated position to be this:

This right here is the comment to follow. The piston has to be lined up EXACTLY as shown in the picture and you need the special tool. One side turns clockwise and the other side turns counterclockwise (gotta love engineers). The piston has to be all the way in and lined up otherwise the pad will hand up! I personally will not replace pads without doing the rotors as well.

 

[Chris M]

What mm are the pads when new from the dealer?

Google says 12mm-ish when new.
The reason I asked is that at my last service (35K miles), the report said I have 10mm all the way around.

You guys are sure hard on brakes! ?

 

[Mustang2Ranger]

OP-

Check rotors, if no pulsation or other issues, reuse. No need to bleed
Ford OEM pads (and rotors if needed) are great price from Levittown ford, long service life and low dust
Lube slides
Need special tool to compress (great pic above), can be rented for free at auto zone or buy for cheap and keep

 

[OGMix376]

My rear rotors were trash at 25k. No towing, no loads, normal driving. Looked terrible. Pads were fine.

That seems really fast. Possible Defect in the rotors?

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