Back to the 2020 FX4 Salvage Rebuild

[Mighty Little Blue]

Managed to get most of the wiring done. That means soldering new connectors for the headlight, intercooler map sensor, small horn in fender, main horns and side light. Had two extra small wires that are apparently for the ambient air sensor. It was completely missing. Fortunately they're very common so ordered one with the connector and bloody ends off Amazon. Hooked up FORscan and it showed the Ambient Air Sensor was open so 99% sure that's it.

The main horns were missing as well. I was planning to get an airless train horn but opted to just grab a couple of Fiamm's off an Explorer while at the salvage yard. Hooked them up and gave them a test. They're pretty loud so I think that will do.

The last 4 wires I suspect are for the driving/fog lights. Still need to verify that. I'm installing aftermarket driving lights so those will be custom wired anyway.

Did a mock-up of the upper bumper cover support and discovered there are mounts that are missing. The entire support was missing when I bought it. Ford's parts diagrams leave a lot to be desired not accurately depicting the actual part design so I just ordered two sets of parts that show they're for the cover support. Guess we'll find out in a week or so.

Here's my next dilemma.

There are normally 4 air deflectors to the radiator - one above, one below, and a "baffle" on each side mounted to the radiator support. Spending money hand-over-foot on this thing is getting old so I'm wondering how many of these deflectors are really necessary and which ones are just an engineer's guess of what might be useful, but don't appreciably aid in cooling.

The upper piece (3) is only about $32 plus shipping. The lower one (11) around $100 to $125 and the side baffles (8) around $80 to $100 each. I honestly can't see that the side baffles do that much. The lower one looks like it might be intended to work with the stock bumper. This Ranger will be getting a Rough Country bumper so not sure about that one. The upper one looks like it helps keep air from going over the top of the radiator support.

Tried to figure out how to monitor the throttle body calibration in FORscan and never could. Lot's more research needed on that front. Too many acronyms, not enough plain English. Instead I just removed battery power, reconnected it and let it idle for about 10 minutes. It settled into a very nice idle. Won't be driving it though until more parts are installed.

Last actual failure that needs fixed is the coolant temp sensor. Gauge is pegged with an "overheat" message. Haven't found good information on that either, other than the sensor is apparently part of the thermostat housing buried under the intake manifold. I really, really, really don't want to take that thing off again.

I have the Rough Country front bumper and all the air defectors remained in place. Could not say how much they are actually needed.

Sponsored

 

[XionUAV]

Quick update. Posted in another forum about the overheat error on startup and discovered that it was a stored code that remains when the battery is disconnected. Keeps the motor in limp mode until cleared. Once the error codes were cleared the temp gauge now reads normally. No errors and no limp mode.

There's still some confusion regarding a coolant sensor location, but at least the cylinder head temp sensor was easy to find on the passenger side of the cylinder head. Originally I believed a failed sensor was the cause of the over temp error. Obviously it wasn't.

Now that I'm reasonably sure the motor is ok, I ordered the cute, red tow hooks (missing one), some high-clearance running boards and Lund OE style flares. I actually have a set of stock running boards and tube nerf bars but don't like how far down they hang. Looked at a bunch and finally settled on the ones pictured from IronBison. $269 from Amazon. At least it will finally be easier to get in and out without assaulting the bottom seat bolster. I'm short.

The flares and running boards are both listed as being textured black. The Rough Country bumper is textured black so I'm hoping these will all match. So far I haven't found a reasonably priced matching rear bumper that retains the stock tow hitch. A detail to figure out later. Might end up texture black rattle can.

Also got the windshield sprayer lines and insulator pad installed on the hood. Discovered the weather stripping fasteners I got for the strip around the front of the hood (most broke on removal) are too small, maybe for a 4mm hole. Need them for a 5mm hole. One hundred count for about $10 from China, but I didn't want to wait for 3 to 4 weeks. Ordered a pack of 25 from a supplier in Florida for about $13. Should only need about 15 anyway.

 

[XionUAV]

A little more progress today. Wired up the ambient air sensor and test fit the bumper to wire the driving lights. The miserable excuse for a body shop didn't even bother to square-up the bumper mounting plate at the front of the rail. Still waiting for the upper bumper cover support mounts then the cover can go on and the bumper attached permanently. That will be a tedious job using wedges or washers to get the angle and spacing correct made worse by the out-of-square mount. Par for the course.

The driving lights were purchased over a year ago and while I think the light output and pattern will be fine, they're dwarfed by the large opening. I'm not a fan of the big, square, multi-led lights that are popular so I may or may not change these out for something larger. Details for later.

I'll make a screen for the rectangular open in the middle of the bumper. Thought about a winch but the chances of me actually needing one is extremely slim given what the truck will be used for 99% of the time. Having one just to look cool isn't my thing.

Bushwacker flares arrived today. Test fit one and they look good. Those won't go on until the steering rack is replaced and at least most of the other panel refitting and suspension is upgraded. Trying to find mud guards that will look good and fit right with the flares is another challenge.

 

[Mighty Little Blue]

A little more progress today. Wired up the ambient air sensor and test fit the bumper to wire the driving lights. The miserable excuse for a body shop didn't even bother to square-up the bumper mounting plate at the front of the rail. Still waiting for the upper bumper cover support mounts then the cover can go on and the bumper attached permanently. That will be a tedious job using wedges or washers to get the angle and spacing correct made worse by the out-of-square mount. Par for the course.

The driving lights were purchased over a year ago and while I think the light output and pattern will be fine, they're dwarfed by the large opening. I'm not a fan of the big, square, multi-led lights that are popular so I may or may not change these out for something larger. Details for later.

I'll make a screen for the rectangular open in the middle of the bumper. Thought about a winch but the chances of me actually needing one is extremely slim given what the truck will be used for 99% of the time. Having one just to look cool isn't my thing.

Bushwacker flares arrived today. Test fit one and they look good. Those won't go on until the steering rack is replaced and at least most of the other panel refitting and suspension is upgraded. Trying to find mud guards that will look good and fit right with the flares is another challenge.

I put 2 Diode Dynamics S3 in each of the outer openings 1 amber and 1 white both fog light pattern. Whites are on fog light switch with both Bambi and cornering mode enabled in Forscan. Amber are independently wired, along with 2 six inch driving lights in center opening that are also on there own switch. Lights are a little expensive, but sold the ones that came with the bumper to make up some of the cost. Definitely worth the upgrade in the lights.

 

[XionUAV]

Well, once again I'm running into more incompetent and unprofessional work that's been done by the body shop on my Ranger.

Removed the fenders to seal the passenger fender and install the securing bolt, which they never did, and install the proper insulator on the driver side that I had to remove from a salvage yard vehicle because the idiots tossed the one that was on the old fender. The replacement from Ford is just a crap piece of foam that doesn't even fit properly.

Discovered the front top bolt securing the fender is partially stripped. The rear securing bolt next to the windshield isn't even the right bolt. It's jammed in part way and wasn't even holding the tab against the mount. I'll have to chase both of these with taps to clean them up.

Then they bent the securing tab down that's welded to the body. There was absolutely no logical reason whatsoever to do this. And then they loosely installed a bolt in it from the door side. That's actually the back side of the nut. The tab is there to insert a bolt from the wheel side to secure the fender to the tab.

The incompetence of that shop is just beyond belief.

Have some polyurethane foam on the way to seal the insulators. They were sealed from the door side at the factory but that's next to impossible to do with the doors attached. I'll have to seal them from the wheel side.

Had to design and 3D print a new snap nut for the underside back of the new fender. It isn't shown on Ford parts diagrams. It secures the back of the fender trim and will secure the back of the new flares. The stock nut is nylon. New part is PETG. Not quite as robust but should be ok since it's a low-stress attachment.

Should have removed that part myself along with the insulator before sending it with the truck to the body shop because had I known the shop wouldn't be professional enough to transfer the pieces to the new fender... The one at the salvage yard was basically resting on the ground. Had I known I would have brought a shovel and some Torx bits, dug a hole and removed it. I broke it up enough to get the fender trim loose. Hindsight.

Man I'll be glad when this rebuild is over.

 

[XionUAV]

Fenders are back on and the hood adjusted the best I can get it. The new fender is just slightly bulged up about 2/3 of the way back but that's about the best I can get it. The hood needs to go back about another 1/8 inch to make the gap at the front more uniform but the hinges are back as far as they'll go. The attachment to the hood is non-adjustable so the only way it will go back farther at this point is to remove the hinges and elongate the holes. Even I have my limits so it's just going to have to be good enough.

Upper cover support brackets came today. They were plastered with labels so those had to be removed and the brackets painted black again. Those will go on tomorrow along with the support and cover. Then the lights can be fitted. Bumper is back off to make all that easier. Plus I want to make a screen for the opening in the center of the bumper before it goes back on.

Special ordered some retainer clips from a company in Florida called KNA Supply. These are for the weather stripping that goes around the front of the hood. Paid-up to get a small quantity here sooner from a U.S. source rather than wait 3-weeks from China. Disappointed once again. Their ad shows the clips are for a 5mm hole. Nope. They're for a 6mm hole. The shank is about 5.3mm and the hip about 7.3mm. For a 5mm hole the shank should be about 4.3mm and the hip about 6.3mm. Sent them an email but haven't heard back. Thinking I might as well just try to find them elsewhere.

And have I mentioned how ABSOLUTELY FRIGGEN INCOMPETENT that body shop is? I have? Well let me reiterate. THEY'RE TOTALLY INCOMPETENT!!! Was installing the fenders and noticed the bottom of the new fender had a drip line about 10 inches across near the bottom. You can kind of see it in the picture. Then I realized the bottom of the fender at the rocker panel had an area that was missed so the original black paint was visible. SERIOUSLY!. TOTAL CRAP WORK! Can't really see the drip line unless you get up close and I just rattle canned the unpainted portion with gloss white.

But there is one good thing believe it or not. I really like the running boards. They're from Iron Bison. Amazon for $269. Pretty much exactly what I was expecting. Now I need to get rid of the nerf bars and used stock running boards I tried and didn't like.

Getting ready to replace the steering rack now. Connected my laptop with FORscan and managed to get a notice that I need the "extended license" in order to do anything with the steering module, which I need to do. Then the laptop crashed for the umteenth time and it ended up out on the driveway. Hardware issue of some sort. Tried another laptop I've had for a while that was also sometimes sketchy. It wouldn't recognized the adapter. Out on the driveway it went. Charging another old laptop to try.

I had meant to get a new laptop but the one I wanted magically jumped $100 from when I saw it to when I went to order it. Ended up not getting one, yet. My wife said I can use her new one, but if anything happened to it I was dead meat. Decided to just try the third old one first.

Anyway, need to read the steering module before removing it so the "As Built" configuration can be documented in case the used replacement has different coding and needs to be changed. So while waiting on all that, I'll start working on installing the Bilsteins.

After jacking up the front end and looking at the wheel camber, I'm not sure the aftermarket upper control arms I purchased because of the planned 2 1/2 inch lift are really necessary. I think the range of the stock ones are sufficient. They were purchased on information from a few different places. Since I have them though there's really no reason not to go ahead and install them. They'll look cool, at least.

 

[XionUAV]

Today's progress.

Got the headlights, upper bumper cover support and cover installed. The grill is just mocked up for now. The location of two of the four "Upper Bumper Cover Supports" I ordered became obvious where they went. The other two not so much. Still can't see where they go and the parts diagrams are pretty worthless since they're an exploded view. Looked in the factory manual but it doesn't show that type of body work. Ordered a set of 6000k LED bulbs. The new headlights came without bulbs. Guess I better check to see if it has turn signal bulbs installed. Just realized that.

Got one of the Bilstein 5100's installed at the 2 1/2 inch lift notch. Tomorrow I plan on installing the other one and both new upper control arms. In hindsight I don't think new upper control arms are necessary at that lift height. Some sources say it's better to have them with the lift so I might as well install them. The bolts for the lower and upper control arms need to be loosened anyway so the bushings will be neutral at the new ride height. The bottom bolts are concentric and will be loosened and tightened again during alignment.

Here's an issue I ran into that believe it or not was not the body shop's fault. Most of the clips holding the weather stripping on the old hood broke when removed. There are two different types of clips - one has a T that fits into a channel on some of the strips while the rest use a standard push rivet retaining clip whatever you want to call it. All the holes are 5mm. The picture shows the old clip and new T clip.

Found the T fasteners from a company called Clips & Fasteners. Can't find the correct size push rivets anywhere. Bought some early on thinking they were correct but ended up too small. Probably for a 4mm hole. All the others I can find are for 6mm holes. Special ordered a set of 25 from a company in Florida called KNA Supply. The description on their website reads 'fits 5mm hole.' Well, they showed up today and they're too big. They're for a 6mm hole.

In the end I finally just snipped the T off the other fasteners since they came in a bag of 100, and used those. Other than being yellow/green instead of black, they look and work fine.

 

[XionUAV]

Got both of the 5100's and upper control arms installed. Not all warm and fuzzy about them though. Height clip is in #5, or the top groove for 2.5" lift. With the jack stands under the frame rails, and a bottle jack next to the lower ball joint, so it's only an inch or so from the face of the rotor, the frame lifts off the jack stands with less than a quarter inch of lift at the jack.

This is NOT good. What it means is the shocks will be riding very close to the top end of shock travel under load. That means on the road any time the suspension is unloaded, even slightly, the shocks are going to hit the top of their travel.

You want at least a few inches of sag so the shocks will have enough travel in normal driving conditions as to not hit their end limits. I can see this setup hitting the top travel limit constantly.

The new 5100's are basically the same length as the OEM Fox shocks. So creating lift by moving the bottom spring mount higher just pushes the piston farther up the cartridge substantially reducing unload travel.

I just assumed that a company like Bilstein would have accounted for this. Apparently not. In order to lift the front end and keep enough travel both directions as to not hit the end limits, you need to move the center range of piston travel a length equal to the amount of lift in order to maintain full, equal piston travel. So if you don't have physically longer shocks, then a spacer is the only proper option to lift the front end and maintain proper shock travel.

I bought these from Stage-3 and will contact them to see what they say. But the only logical solution at this point to use them and still lift the front end is to move the lower spring seat clip down to the #1 groove, which is 0.0" lift, and install a spacer.

Removing the shocks, compressing the springs, changing configurations and reinstalling them is not a simple or easy job. I fought with the individual spring compressors because I figured this was a one time job. Just another smack in the face for the Salvage Ranger rebuild. I'm going to blow another $200 and get a professional spring compressor stand this time. After all, it's only money, blood, labor and time.

But wait, there's more.

The new recommended OBDLinkEX adapter for FORscan worked once and now isn't recognized by anything. I tried 3 different laptops. "Adapter Not Found." I was all set to scan the coding in the steering module so I can swap out the steering rack. AHAHAHAHAHaaa. Right. It's going back for a refund and I need to order a different one. Might try a Bluetooth version. Have had good luck with simpler versions of those for standard code and status scanning.

Seriously. I'm just done.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I would not skip out on the shrouding for the coolers up front. They are designed to keep air from wasting around your coolers. I am always very big on good shrouding.

 

[airline tech]

Got both of the 5100's and upper control arms installed. Not all warm and fuzzy about them though. Height clip is in #5, or the top groove for 2.5" lift. With the jack stands under the frame rails, and a bottle jack next to the lower ball joint, so it's only an inch or so from the face of the rotor, the frame lifts off the jack stands with less than a quarter inch of lift at the jack.

This is NOT good. What it means is the shocks will be riding very close to the top end of shock travel under load. That means on the road any time the suspension is unloaded, even slightly, the shocks are going to hit the top of their travel.

You want at least a few inches of sag so the shocks will have enough travel in normal driving conditions as to not hit their end limits. I can see this setup hitting the top travel limit constantly.

The new 5100's are basically the same length as the OEM Fox shocks. So creating lift by moving the bottom spring mount higher just pushes the piston farther up the cartridge substantially reducing unload travel.

I just assumed that a company like Bilstein would have accounted for this. Apparently not. In order to lift the front end and keep enough travel both directions as to not hit the end limits, you need to move the center range of piston travel a length equal to the amount of lift in order to maintain full, equal piston travel. So if you don't have physically longer shocks, then a spacer is the only proper option to lift the front end and maintain proper shock travel.

I bought these from Stage-3 and will contact them to see what they say. But the only logical solution at this point to use them and still lift the front end is to move the lower spring seat clip down to the #1 groove, which is 0.0" lift, and install a spacer.

Removing the shocks, compressing the springs, changing configurations and reinstalling them is not a simple or easy job. I fought with the individual spring compressors because I figured this was a one time job. Just another smack in the face for the Salvage Ranger rebuild. I'm going to blow another $200 and get a professional spring compressor stand this time. After all, it's only money, blood, labor and time.

But wait, there's more.

The new recommended OBDLinkEX adapter for FORscan worked once and now isn't recognized by anything. I tried 3 different laptops. "Adapter Not Found." I was all set to scan the coding in the steering module so I can swap out the steering rack. AHAHAHAHAHaaa. Right. It's going back for a refund and I need to order a different one. Might try a Bluetooth version. Have had good luck with simpler versions of those for standard code and status scanning.

Seriously. I'm just done.

I think you have a setting or checkbox issue - check the Forscan Connection (Tab)
It's the Gear (On the LH side of the screen)

Someone would have to Hook-Up and view the screen with the adapter connected (Ex)
as I have both the (Ex) & (Mx) - my current screen is auto-populated with the (Mx) settings as I used it last (connection)
or use the Forscan support site

 

[XionUAV]

I think you have a setting or checkbox issue - check the Forscan Connection (Tab)
It's the Gear (On the LH side of the screen)

Someone would have to Hook-Up and view the screen with the adapter connected (Ex)
as I have both the (Ex) & (Mx) - my current screen is auto-populated with the (Mx) settings as I used it last (connection)
or use the Forscan support site

It worked fine the first time I connected and looked over some things. Next time the adapter wasn't recognized. First thing I did was go to the connection screen and try a few different settings. Nothing changed.

Can't imagine I'd get the same error on different machines when it worked once on one of them.

 

[XionUAV]

After stewing about it all last night and this morning, I may just cut my losses and go with a set of Rough Country loaded struts that have a 2" to 2.5" lift. Another member here installed them and says he's very happy with them after 20k miles or so. I installed them on a 2012 Nissan Frontier last year and thought they were certainly good enough.

Yes, I'd prefer to be one of the cool kids with a higher-end brand like Bilstein or Eibach, but honestly I'm running out of steam and patience with the project and just want it done so i can move on. And the thought of compressing another set of springs to build another set is not even remotely appealing. Just removing and installing another set is going to be hassle enough.

Sent an email to Stage-3 hoping they'll throw me a bone of some kind but I'm not holding my breath. It doesn't help that I paid around $550 for this set last year and they're already being blown out for only $420 or so. I tell ya.

 

[Fx4ranger2019Larait]

Got both of the 5100's and upper control arms installed. Not all warm and fuzzy about them though. Height clip is in #5, or the top groove for 2.5" lift. With the jack stands under the frame rails, and a bottle jack next to the lower ball joint, so it's only an inch or so from the face of the rotor, the frame lifts off the jack stands with less than a quarter inch of lift at the jack.

This is NOT good. What it means is the shocks will be riding very close to the top end of shock travel under load. That means on the road any time the suspension is unloaded, even slightly, the shocks are going to hit the top of their travel.

You want at least a few inches of sag so the shocks will have enough travel in normal driving conditions as to not hit their end limits. I can see this setup hitting the top travel limit constantly.

The new 5100's are basically the same length as the OEM Fox shocks. So creating lift by moving the bottom spring mount higher just pushes the piston farther up the cartridge substantially reducing unload travel.

I just assumed that a company like Bilstein would have accounted for this. Apparently not. In order to lift the front end and keep enough travel both directions as to not hit the end limits, you need to move the center range of piston travel a length equal to the amount of lift in order to maintain full, equal piston travel. So if you don't have physically longer shocks, then a spacer is the only proper option to lift the front end and maintain proper shock travel.

I bought these from Stage-3 and will contact them to see what they say. But the only logical solution at this point to use them and still lift the front end is to move the lower spring seat clip down to the #1 groove, which is 0.0" lift, and install a spacer.

Removing the shocks, compressing the springs, changing configurations and reinstalling them is not a simple or easy job. I fought with the individual spring compressors because I figured this was a one time job. Just another smack in the face for the Salvage Ranger rebuild. I'm going to blow another $200 and get a professional spring compressor stand this time. After all, it's only money, blood, labor and time.

But wait, there's more.

I had the same concern a few years ago when installing my leveling kit with 5100’s. Was trying to keep it on a budget with the decent set the new coil over. Everything at the time was way overpriced at the time and still is. Was concerned about a rough ride because all the 5100’s do is compress stock springs to make truck level.

So you don’t necessarily need a spacer to get lift 3”/ 2 1/2” at stock settings. I used Eibach springs up front paired with 5100’s at stock settings. I did have to pay $40 for a shop to compress springs tho. Or you could just buy spring compressor for future jobs as well you seem vary capable at doing all your own work.

Using Eibach springs is just a thought it will be a little more $$$ than a spacer but a much more comfortable ride in my opinion. Sucks it’s already installed but you have to take it apart to install spacer. Might be worth it. Stage3 will probably recommend using Eibach springs I think I got the idea from another thread here a few years ago and it was recommended by Stage3 for this same problem

Picked up shocks and springs from stage3. Just looked online springs are 190$-210$.

 

[XionUAV]

Did I sound frustrated and stressed in my last post? It happens. Made a decision that has relieved much of that stress though regarding the shocks. Sometimes 'getting what you pay for' requires sucking it up and paying more.

After all the work I've put into this thing trying to make it as nice as possible, I just can't cheap-out now and install low-end suspension components. After watching reviews and comparisons, the Eibach Pro Truck setup looks to be a better option for me. Blowing another grand certainly isn't what I wanted to do, but sometimes self-preservation isn't cheap.

Reviewers say the shock is slightly longer than stock and specs show a max lift of 3.75", which means it shouldn't be anywher near its travel limit adjusted to 2.5" or so. It has a zinc-coated steel body from what I read and has a threaded bottom spring plate so height adjustments can be made on the vehicle if necessary provided the spring is compressed somewhat, obviously. I like that idea MUCH better than needing to remove and disassembling the shock to move a clip ring. I'll put the Bilstein's up for sale and recoop what I can.

Something that doesn't seem to get much press is the need to change the sway bar end-link length with a lift. The sway bar can be twisted to fit but it stresses the rubber bushings, which can lead to premature bushing failure. Same reason the upper and lower control arm bolts need to be loosened and then retightened after the vehicle is lowered back onto the ground so the bushings will rest at a neutral point at the new ride height.

The stock swaybar end link length is 12", or about 305mm. From what I can see, the bushings in the swaybar mounts are fixed so they can't be rotated. That means the links need to be about 1.5" shorter for a 2.5" lift in order to rest at a neutral position. A 10.5" link is about 265mm. That length is a best guess at this point but I'll get some adjustable links in that range.

The stock link stud is 12mm. Many of the adjustable links have 10mm studs with a sleave adapter for 12mm. I'll try to find a good set with 12mm studs.

I'm also ordering a 1" shackle lift from BDS for the back end. That was always the plan regardless what shocks and lift went in up front.

 

[XionUAV]

I had the same concern a few years ago when installing my leveling kit with 5100’s. Was trying to keep it on a budget with the decent set the new coil over. Everything at the time was way overpriced at the time and still is. Was concerned about a rough ride because all the 5100’s do is compress stock springs to make truck level.

So you don’t necessarily need a spacer to get lift 3”/ 2 1/2” at stock settings. I used Eibach springs up front paired with 5100’s at stock settings. I did have to pay $40 for a shop to compress springs tho. Or you could just buy spring compressor for future jobs as well you seem vary capable at doing all your own work.

Using Eibach springs is just a thought it will be a little more $$$ than a spacer but a much more comfortable ride in my opinion. Sucks it’s already installed but you have to take it apart to install spacer. Might be worth it. Stage3 will probably recommend using Eibach springs I think I got the idea from another thread here a few years ago and it was recommended by Stage3 for this same problem

Picked up shocks and springs from stage3. Just looked online springs are 190$-210$.

Thank you for the comments and pictures. Love those beefy upper's. And that's a seriously pretty, rust-free spindle.

As you'll see from my last post, I've tossed the budget out the window in favor of a full set of Eibachs with the loaded, adjustable front shocks. Since I've done struts or coil-overs so infrequently, my compressors are the threaded rods. They're good ones but a pain to use more than once a job...once every 5 years...maybe.

Since the Eibachs can be adjusted on the vehicle, I'll probably get the compresser that's a single rod with fork-type clamps that slide in from the side. Wouldn't want to use them to fully compress a spring, but they should work fine to relieve enough pressure to turn the adjuster.

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